2002 R1150GS Blowing Fuse 5

I think I have a success. Everything plugged back in, battery back in and the fuse did not blow. I'll put the tank on tomorrow and see if I can get the engine running before I rewrap the loom. Right now it looks like an explosion of technicolour spaghetti.

RobC
 
That’s Good News!

Loss of continuity between the battery negative and the Green/Black wire is what you want, it shows that you have found where the wire was shorting to ground and the cause of your fuse blowing.

looks like Mike O was right all along at the site of the problem.

I suspect that the insulation has just worn away exposing the copper conductor which has short circuit to earth. Have a good look at the copper wire to make sure it hasn’t partially burn through which would reduce the current that that wire could safely carry. If the copper is damaged, you may have to splice it or bridge the damage wire with solder before insulating it.

Once done just add some extra protection to the area to prevent further chaffing.

When you come to re-wrapping the loom, make sure that at the ends of the loom the wrapping is as tight as you can get it to help prevent water getting inside the loom.

Well done !
 
Update:
Wire soldered and taped. The loom is fully wrapped and the bike starts and runs.

I now have two smaller issues to deal with. First, the front brake light switch is no longer working so I need to trace that back to it's connector to test it. Hopefully there isn't much of my newly wrapped loom to unwrap.
Secondly, my Fuzeblock no longer supplies power to the switches side so maybe my splice into the switched power needs a fix or the relay in the Fuzeblock is toast. Power to the permanently live side still works.

Right now, I'm just happy the bike is running and no expensive parts were required.

Many thanks to Ian and Mike O for all their help.

Regards

RobC
 
Front Brake microswitch.


You should be able to hear the microswitch clicking as you press the lever.
As you’ve been disconnecting lots of connectors, make sure you‘ve reconnected this one. Right hand side of headstock visible under right fuel tank lobe.
It has 2 wires going to it Green/black (This wire has nothing to do with your original fault) and Grey/yellow.
The connector above it with 3 wires is for the Tachometer To save on confusion.IMG_0509.jpeg
 
Maybe that is the first one that has the Heath Robinson fix (See my other thread) which I chose not to reconnect. I actually thought that was the heated grips. One to check tomorrow. 6 hours or loom wrapping today and I'm a bit fed up of seeing wires.

RobC
 
Maybe that is the first one that has the Heath Robinson fix (See my other thread) which I chose not to reconnect. I actually thought that was the heated grips. One to check tomorrow. 6 hours or loom wrapping today and I'm a bit fed up of seeing wires.

RobC
I bet you are ! Good work sticking with it, and big respect to the contributors who kept pitching in with great knowledge and advice, all free of charge and given in good spirit.

worth £12 quid of anyone’s money.
 
I bet you are ! Good work sticking with it, and big respect to the contributors who kept pitching in with great knowledge and advice, all free of charge and given in good spirit.

worth £12 quid of anyone’s money.
Exactly this. I've enjoyed following Robc76 on this thread and the valued contributors. Worth every penny. Well done.
 
Update:
The mangled connector is, indeed, for the front brake light switch. I've got it working for now but I will fit new connections soon.
The Fuzeblock issue is also resolved which may have been a loose connection to the switched live at the Fuzeblock end - a wiggle of wires and fuses and it came back to life. Something to keep an eye on.

One ABS reset and the bike runs without any warning lights and everything appears to function perfectly. The sun is shining so it would be rude not to go on a test ride.

RobC
 
Great result! :thumb2
Thanks to the excellent people that helped too! Top work. :clap
 


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