Things to do in Denver...

MikeO

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Dereham, Norfolk, today...
9th September

Today I’m going to Denver to get some new tyres. I’m on the road at 1000 and heading east along Interstate 70. Normally, you’d have to put a gun to my head to get me to ride on an Interstate, but 70 is a scenic route in its own right…

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…as it winds through the canyons of the White River National Forest…

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…following the White River, as you might expect. It’s a cloudy and cool morning. The clouds are blowing slowly from the north and seem to be releasing precipitation of some kind – but whatever it is, is evaporating before it reaches the ground at this altitude…

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…there’s a name for this phenomenon (thinks back to Met lessons) – anybody help me out here?*

The road has a ridiculously low 50mph speed limit, which most people seem to ignore until they see me in their mirrors, when they suddenly adjust their speed to 50 – Colorado Highway Patrol bikes must look similar to mine from the front…:D Soon, the limit is upped to a more realistic 75 mph.

The road continues through the ski-city of Vail (where Jorge’s dad lives), and climbs up over Shrine Pass…

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…and, at 11,000 ft or so, I’m getting decidedly chilly – I consider turning the heated grips on, but remain resolute and manly (with cold hands). Eventually I enter the Eisenhower Memorial Tunnel (no pics – too dark :D). It’s the highest road tunnel in the world, at just over 11000 ft - it’s just under 1.7 miles long.

I'm happily cruising at 75 or so (the limit is now 60). I'm overtaken by a Suburban Assault Vehicle (SUV) of some kind - who, about a mile or so later, on a left hand bend, suddenly brakes, as does the vehicle he's overtaking. I get my speed down in time to avoid the attentions of the Colorado State Trooper in his Crown Victoria - the SUV is not so lucky...*breathes sigh of relief*

Eventually, Denver comes into view…

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and, as I descend, it starts to get a good deal warmer. I make my way to Discount Motorcycle Tyres & Accessories, who I’d phoned on Tuesday…

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…where the service manager, Jason…

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…booked the Adventure in with a very professional manner. DMTA have a strict ‘first come, first served’ rule for tyre fitting, and I’d, unfortunately, arrived just after 3 other customers. I sit back in the waiting area and read a good selection of local bike magazines and papers for a couple of hours. During this time, I have a couple of conversations with Jason – the first inspired by 2 of the customers who preceded me. He’d asked them both what pressures they’d like in their tyres – neither had any idea. I ask if this is common – he says it is – frighteningly so – people not only fail to check their pressures, they don’t even know what they’re meant to be. The second revolves around the recent production problems that Metzeler seem to have had with front Tourance tyres – several members of ADVRider & UKGSer have had tyres replaced free of charge after their bikes developed a handlebar shake at low speeds with these tyres fitted. Jason says he’s not heard of the problem, but assures me that they’ll address any issue like that with my tyres.

In fact, the whole feeling about the place is good – calm and professional – I relax. This is a mistake.

At just before 1500, I’m told the bike’s ready. I pay my $290 (including $66 fitting fee) and get suited up. I ride off and, as I accelerate, I notice a slight ‘head shake’ on the handlebars. After some experimenting, I find it only happens between 30 and 45 mph, is not progressive and is immediately stopped by putting as much as a finger back on the handlebar. I decide to return to DMTA to let them know about the problem. I’m not concerned, as I expect the tyres to ‘bed down’ a little as they scrub in and the problem may disappear on its own – I just want to let them know that there’s a potential problem.

I arrive back, and the tech who fitted the tyres, Leyton, asks what the problem is. I explain, saying I’m not overly concerned. He looks at the tyre, seeing if it’s fitted evenly around the wheel, which it appears to be. He then gets hold of the nut on the end of the front axle, which turns as he does so.

Great.

He then starts blustering that he’d checked it was tight – I keep very cool and point out that he must be mistaken. He then checks the two pinch bolts on the bottom of the fork legs – they’re both finger loose.

Okay.

I go inside and find Jason and ask him to go and get the boss. He disappears into the back of the shop and comes back out to tell me that the owner, Stewart, is ‘busy in meeting’, but would be happy to discuss this o the ‘phone later. I ask him to go back and ask Stewart exactly what it is that’s more important than a customer service issue like this. He goes off again – I fell sorry for him, he’s having to take the flak for his boss’s poor attitude. After a couple of minutes, another chap comes out with Jason, apologises and, without prompting, admits that this was a dangerous and possibly life threatening error – what can he do to put it right? I first suggest that the tech gets a formal warning and re-training – he agrees (in fact, I wonder if Leyton will be working for them after today) – I then suggest he makes a gesture over the fitting charges for the tyres. Incredibly, he agrees to refund $33 for the front tyre, but not the $33 for the rear. I take the money…

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personally supervise the complete re-torqueing (is that a word?) of all the bolts on the front & rear of the bike, and ride off.

The minor head-shake is still there, but I’m not minded to go back today – if it hasn’t straightened itself out tomorrow, I’ll go back – perhaps Stewart will be out of his meeting by then – who knows?

I treat myself to a night in the Hampton Inn and notice a new concept…

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…the telephone has a card reader, so you can order those movies ‘the titles of which will not appear on your bill’ in even more privacy…:D

Not the best of days.

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* EDIT- - Virga!
 
10th September

The receptionist rings me with my wake-up call at 0600. At 0605, Big Dave, whom I’m meeting here at 0700 for a ride-out, rings and tells me he’s not going to be able to make it until just after 0900 :yelrotflm

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Never mind, I slowly surface and go and grab some breakfast (actually quite good, for a change). I’m replying to Emails when Dave arrives. Dave works in IT and has very kindly taken the day off to show me some of the sights around Colorado. His ADVRider forum name of Big Dave is in no way ironic – we look like a pair of bookends on our bikes :D

We set out, first stopping to put the correct pressures in my tyres (I’d asked for 39F/42R – I’d got 32F/34R), along the 121, then the 36 towards Boulder. The weather is unexpectedly cool, with a heavy overcast and occasional spots of rain. Dave’s worked out a route through Estes Park and Grand Lake.

After some unremarkable divided highway, the 36 north of Boulder turns into a pleasant, if undemanding, two lane road, leading up into the Rocky Mountain National Park.

We stop at the town of Estes Park…

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…the marquees being put up in the town are in preparation for a ‘Scottish Event’ this weekend – we deftly sidestep that and stop at a small coffee shop.

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Estes Park is the home of the hotel which Stephen King based his book ‘The Shining’ on. It was also used for the exteriors when the book was recently filmed for the ‘Mini-Series’ version (not the Stanley Kubrick film)…

After coffee we get into the park – the weather has improved a little and the cloud breaks from time to time…

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There’s a lot of traffic in the park, for a weekday, but plenty of wildlife as well – if you look really carefully at the above pic, you might see a herd of elk in the middle distance…

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Dave is very patient, as I stop at irregular intervals to take pictures. Soon we start climbing into the mountains, looking back down onto Big Thompson River, winding its way along the flat valley floor…

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As we climb, it starts to get cooler (I noticed the temperature as we left Estes Park was 57º F). We stop at one of the (many) overlooks – a stunning view from just over 11000 ft…

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As I found at Black Canyon, the locals quickly learn to relax around tourists…

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…although they’re no easier to photograph here – I got several pictures of rocks before catching this one :D

Suddenly, there’s a familiar sound…

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…as a pair of identical GSes turn up. They turn out to be rented bikes, ridden by Rudolph & Thomas - a father and son team from Switzerland…

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They are returning the bikes and flying home tomorrow, after an 8 day trip around Colorado & Utah. The holiday is Rudolph’s sixtieth birthday present – nice gesture…:thumb

We ride on towards Grand Lake – the temperature drops dramatically over the next couple of miles, as we cross a ridge near Forest Canyon…

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No forests here though, as we clear the timberline…

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…and reach the top of the pass – 12020ft. The last time I was this high up was in February, when the captain switched on the ‘Fasten Seat Belts’ sign…

We press on – we’re only just under the cloudbase and it’s got very cold. I should imagine that the little tarn at the base of Lava Cliffs…

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…is a tad chilly. Soon we start the descent towards Grand Lake. I’d actually been quite concerned at the state of the road surface at the top of the pass – it was shiny – not quite wet, not dry - and the temperature can’t have been far off freezing…

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…we’re soon back in the shelter of trees, however, and the temperature quickly becomes more comfortable. As we ride along the alpine meadows at the base of the valley, I keep a keen eye out for wildlife – not just to avoid hitting it, but there’s a fair chance of seeing moose along here.

We soon come across the most common sign that some wildlife is in the area…

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…cars chaotically abandoned all over the road, with a Park Ranger tearing his hair out trying to keep traffic moving. Yes, there’s a bull moose there somewhere, but he’s disappeared into the undergrowth and, if he’s got any sense, long since departed the area…

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We arrive at Grand Lake at about 1415 and get a table in the Sagebrush Bar & Grill. It has an unusual concept (actually I’ve seen it once before, in Florida, with Jeff & Keri) in that there are vast buckets of salted peanuts everywhere…

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…which customers eat whilst they wait to be served – you throw the shells on the floor. I order a Buffalo Burger – buffalo meat apparently has substantially less saturated fat than beef.

To rectify this shortfall, I order extra cheese.

Suitably refreshed, Dave & I ride out of the town which, I note, has its laws enforced by someone that sounds like a character from Harry Potter…

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We ride alongside Granby Lake, which looks great in the mid afternoon sunshine…

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…refuel at Granby, then join the 40 and head south east towards Interstate 70. The 40 leads us up over Berthoud Pass – a great road – no pictures, but a lot of fun to ride as it climbs through a series of switchbacks to just over 11000 ft. On the descent, we eventually get stuck behind a truck…

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and have an uneventful return to the relatively low levels of Empire (still well over a mile high) and thence to Interstate 70. Here we say cheerio, as Dave has to get home & take his wife out to a concert this evening. We both head back on I70, splitting up just after entering Denver. I’m back in the hotel just after 1700.

Excellent day out - thanks Dave:thumb.

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ps – The low speed headshake is still there…
 


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