Whisky Islands

We were supposed to be going to Kesh this weekend but work ruined that plan so we needed another. A map of Scotland was opened and a cunning plan hatched. We'd fancied a trip over to Islay and Jura for some time and as a consolation they are close to Ireland...
So we left in plenty time to catch the ferry, time enough to stop at my favorite local cafe- the Cadora Cafe in Tarbert- who serve a mean bacon and blue cheeses pannini..



The ferry crew directed us to the bike lane- think it was for push bikes as my bike filled filled the lane..



But Fruitcake managed to squeeze her 650 in too and got on board OK where the crew made a good job of securing the bikes with straps and wedges under both wheels.



Once under way a cunning plan to take in all the distilleries on Islay and Jura was hatched in the sunshine.



It got warmer and warmer as we sailed up the Sound of Islay and what little cloud there was burned off revelaing the Paps of Jura.



Arriving at Port Askaig.



Once off the ferry take the first road on the right which brings you to Caol Isla ( Don't give me a hard time for the pronunciation but the locals say it like 'Cull Eela' and that's good enough for me..)



The exchange rate would seem to be 1 Tosser = a barrel ...



Fruitcake takes in the view.



While Wully tries to get into the stills...



After a wee visit to the distillery shop we were off to our next stop





Say " Boon - a -have - inn" "

I didn't know they made Black Bottle there as well..



Another wee visit was made to the distillery shop before heading off to the final stop of the day at.. " Brew- ich - laddie " One of my all time favorite distilleries which has nothing to do with the fact that I went on a stag weekend there last year and have some of their excellent whisky patiently maturing in a cask that I won't get my mitts on for a good few years yet.



This truck is used to transport the freshly made spirit to the bonded store where the casks are filled.



Luckily for my wallet we arrived just after the shop had closed for the day so it was off along the road to the camp site at Port Mor.



You can see that it is pretty open and exposed. What you can't see is that it was feckin windy and there is NO shelter at all. Nor was there any sign of a warden and his phone wasn't being answered so we couldn't get a code for the showers and toilets but being hard core GS'ers this was no problem.

The Bridgend Hotel was only a few miles along the road and they had a double room
With a well stocked bar - fruits of the local produce was sampled.

Much gluttony followed.





A lively evening ensued .





Day two to follow.

Thanks for sharing

Expecting next episode

Whisky and deer

Not so bright but pretty early for us considering last nights greed-fest we head back to Port Askaig to catch the council run ferry for the 5 minute crossing to Jura. I don't think they get a lot of bikes as the ferry man seemed to have no idea how much to charge us. It worked out at an entirely reasonable £8.20 return for each bike and passenger.



The morning was dull and rain seemed not to be far away.



But as we wound our way over the hill to Craighouse it started to brighten up and by the time we'd arrived it was looking less like rain.



Like a lot of places around this area palm trees can grow due to the warming influence of the gulf stream.



It made for a very pleasant morning coffee and scones in the sunshine.



The Jura Hotel has an areas set aside in the field in front for camping and has a shower and toilet block at the back of the hotel for the use of campers and walkers. They don't have any set charge for this, just an honesty box you can leave a donation in- how nice is that?



We had our choice of the whole field so took a spot along by the trees, close to the waters edge and got set up.



The distillery shop was open much to the distress of my wallet and it would have been rude not to go in, wouldn't it?



Now, you have to try a few for comparison purposes only...



They're only wee tasters luckily....but I made a difficult choice and we got out of there while we could.



The plan for the rest of the day was to head off up the island towards the
Corryvreckan passing George Orwells house at Barnhill on the way. We'd no idea how far the road went before turning into a rough track but a lady on Islay had told us it was a 7 mile walk from the end of the road...



Most of the island is pretty barren looking.



But along the eastern side stands of trees cling to the steep shore line sheltered from the often fierce winds off the Atlantic.



We stopped off in Ardlussa to bask in the sunshine.



As well as whisky, Jura has plenty of deer - they were everywhere and not too bothered by humans.



Farther along the road we came to this gate. We had no idea if this was private estate land or a deer gate, the sign on the gate was weathered away to bare wood and we'd seen no one to ask.



These little porkers didn't know either.



We didn't want to upset the locals by driving through so headed back down the road, we could ask anyone we met or leave it for another day - doesn't look like it gets a lot of traffic, does it?



More deer.



Fruitcake decides to play about on her bike just as the only car we'd seen for hours turns up...



"Sunshine!!!!!"



More deer



Back to Graighouse for a beer or two before supper in the hotel.



We saw this fella lurking around outside the hotel- dunno what he is but he seemed friendly.




More food and drink was consumed and an early night was had.
In the morning we were woken by the rain drumming on the tent- at least it wasn't windy.
Morning coffee was made before setting reluctantly setting out in the pouring rain for Islay.



To be continued.

wully said:

We saw this fella lurking around outside the hotel- dunno what he is but he seemed friendly.

.

Click to expand...

It's Billy goat Gruff

were you not suppoed to be guarding the bridge


Great wee write up

H.R.H. OONYACK said:

were you not supposed to be guarding the bridge

Click to expand...

WTF?

it's a famous Norwegian fairy tale in which three goats cross a bridge, under which is a fearsome troll who wants to eat them.

wully said:

WTF?

Click to expand...

H.R.H. OONYACK said:

it's a famous Norwegian fairy tale in which three goats cross a bridge, under which is a fearsome troll who wants to eat them.

Click to expand...

Great ride report Wully and Fruitcake
Regarding the "BRIDGE"

The story introduces three male goats named Gruff of varying size and age, sometimes identified in the story as youngster, father and grandfather, but more often they are described as brothers. There is no grass left for them nearest where they live, so they must cross a river to go a "sæter" (a summer farm in the hills) "to make themselves fat", but the only way across is by a bridge and it is guarded by a fearsome troll who eats any who pass that way. The youngest goat, knowing nothing of this, crosses the bridge and is threatened by the troll but is spared when he tells the troll that his brothers are larger and more gratifying as a feast. The middle goat sees that the youngest one has crossed and reaches the conclusion that the bridge must be safe after all, but when he crosses and the troll challenges him, he too tells him of his eldest brother. When the eldest and largest of them attempts to cross, the troll comes out to seize him but is gored by his horns and knocked into the river. From that time on the bridge is safe, and all three goats are able to go to the rich fields around the summer farm in the hills. The troll does not survive.



I di'nae think that his Highness is sayin' yer an ugly TROLL
but then again, you know the man onyackonyack

Enjoyed that, looking forward to the next installment, thanks.........

Great report and ace photos,Wully....more please.

So, Saturday morning was wet, we'd been woken up through the night with the rain drumming on the tent and the odd gust whistling through the trees sheltering us from the south.
Coffee was brewed as the rain continued outside.



We got suited up in the tent and packed the soaking wet tent away and then once we were ready to leave discovered that the ferry was in eight minutes...So I hammered down to the slip to see if I could catch it as it was over an hour to the next departure. Fruitcake following on at a more sensible pace came round a bend in the road and had to stop as she was surrounded by a hear of deer crossing the road... guess my £2.75 deer scarer I've glued to my HID ballasts works then

Of course I was in time to see the ferry leaving the slip, so we parked up just as the burger van on the pier was opening so breakfast bacon rolls were ordered and the jetboil fired up in the waiting room for more fresh brewed coffee. The rain continued to hammer down.



The return crossing wasn't as pleasant as our outward trip and once back on Islay we set off to visit the remaining distilleries.
First up was the newest - Kilchoman, set up on a farm,so new that there isn't any whisky ready, it'll be a few more years yet...



But they do sell minatures of ' New Spirit' bottled at full strength and of course we had to have a couple.Not tasted it yet but we'll try some after dinner tonight

It's a tiny distillery and they malt their own grain.



They've also got a cafe and shop which we had a quick look round but left when we noticed the large puddles we were leaving behind us...

Some interesting info on the wall..





We headed off in the pissing rain and increasing wind for Bowmore for a wee look round there and the wallet got another hammering.



Then it was a long uncomfortable blast to Port Ellen along the straightest, bumpiest section of road I've ever seen. The strong wind coming off the sea on our right wasn't very nice and worse was all the standing water on the road that was blasted all over us when trucks and cars passed going in the other direction.
Two wet and cold bikers arrived at Laphroaig to early for anything to be open.



So we turned round and headed along to the first distillery I ever visited- Lagavulin- which was closed at weekends



On my first visit I arrived by boat and tied up to the visitors moorings they kindly provide. We rowed ashore and wandered around for a while before being given a tour of the distillery by one of the workers as the regular guide was showing round a Japanese film crew making a documentary. I can say that it was certainly not a regular tour because by the time it was finished I just couldn't tell if it had gotten foggy all of a sudden or there was something wrong with my eyes. My legs weren't working properly either. The trip back across to Gigha in the very real fog is best forgotten...

On to Ardbeg next - a lovely whisky and we were looking forward to this visit more than normal as there is also a cafe there and we were in need of drying and thawing out.



We weren't happy to find the cafe shut. Fruitcake took it out on the guard dog...



Wet, cold, hungry. Over two hours to wait for the ferry back to the mainland. We needed hot food preferably eaten somewhere warm and dry. Where to go?

Back to the Bridgend Hotel of course!



Bikes parked.
The staff couldn't have been more welcoming allowing us to hang our soaking wet gear up in the hotel office.

Gloves drying in front of a log fire in the lounge.



Faces stuffed.



As we ate lunch and drank coffee the rain went off and the sun started to shine again and we wondered about staying longer to properly visit the distilleries we'd made fleeting visits to.
But a far better plan was hatched- to return again soon and spend some quality time here.

Once my wallet (and liver) recovers .

So back in the warming sunshine to Port Askaig to catch the ferry back over to Kenacraig.



We'll be back sometime soon, next time armed with a Whisky Coast Passport, more time and a longer journey.

Slainte!

(No statues of small dogs were harmed in the making of this report)

Super report and pic's

Nice one Wully...really enjoyed that.



BUT......



What the feck is THAT ?????

wully said:

Faces stuffed.

Click to expand...

Tarka said:

What the feck is THAT ?????

Click to expand...

"That" is a feckin delicious smoked bacon and stilton pannini

Hiya Wully! Nice report, I'm looking forward getting back up there this summer

Thanks for a great report Wully and cracking pics too.

Mandy and I had intended to visit some of those isles after the first GotC, but a fecked battery put an end to that. We have unfinished business up there and your report makes me want to head back up again.

Do it!

We did a total of 239 miles, hardly epic but it was a great wee trip

Thoroughly enjoyed that, thanks............

your ahead of us

PhysioJo and I are hatching a plan to do the same thing in September. Two bike and lots of whisky. Roads look good. Thanks for all the info. great report.

Give us a shout nearer the time, we've got un finished business there

Bikin Pannini and Whisky what more could a body ask for?