Cutting out

Shez_ow01

Guest
Hi all,

My 1150gs has started cutting out and I can't get to the bottom of it;

Symptoms are the bike will cut out for no apparent reason and there is no pattern to it, Pull in the clutch press the starter and it fires up again. It has happened at high speed, low speed whilst slowing and whilst accelerating.

It started about a week ago I made the fatal mistake of washing the bike, last time I washed it was about 6 months ago and it cost me 500 quid in diagnostics and hall sensors. Then I vowed never to wash it again but I had too it was stinking:(
The next day the bike ran fine except the gear indicator was all over the place, but that day there was really bad traffic heading into London so the bike got very hot (two bars from the top) the bike didn't cut out at all on the way into town, however coming home it started to cut out, as I said it would start again immediately but the journey home (approx 50 miles) was fraught as it cut out over 20 times.
I have not really used the bike since then, have tried smothering it with WD40 in all the joints in case water got in and I have concentrated on the sidestand switch as that seemed likely, but it is still the same, only clear indication is from cold start it is fine for a couple of miles then it starts cutting out.

Any ideas? I hope it isn't hall sensors again.

TIA

Shez
 
Faults like this are always hard to find. If it cuts out dead and doesn't splutter to a stop its probably electrics. Ignition switches have a habit of giving problems. The wires come off the bottom and can be soldered back on. Other wise the old hall sensor again or coils.

Good luck with finding it.

Pete
 
Thanks for the reply.
The way it cuts completely suggests it is the whole ignition system, so I will take a look at the switch, thanks for that.
I am also going to check the coil as it is an older single plug model I wonder if that is having an affect, I am thinking the temperature it got to last Monday may be more of the issue than the washing it.
Shez
 
Mine did the same thing,usually on turning the bars to the right.
Common problem with a wire breaking inside its plastic sleeving where it flexes close to the ignition switch.
Remove the sheathing and waggle the wires with the motor running.
Fix was a short length of gash wire soldered in.
 
Tried wiggling the wires all to no avail, I think I need to get it onto my bench pull it apart and attack it with a multimeter.
Anybody know if Hall sensors have a warranty when fitted by a dealer, they were only done in Oct and if they are gone again I won't be happy.

Shez
 
mine had the same problem even after changing hall sensor but has mad as it sounds one bottle of wynns dry fuel and hey presto problem gone(water in fuel)oh well at least i,ve got a spare hall sensor that,ll come in handy cos i,m never selling my 1100 never,never,never
 
This is getting stranger and stranger.

It is affected by temperature, it will run fine until the temp gauge has 3 or four bars up and will then start cutting out.
The cut out is total and the rev counter dies even though the engine is still turning (so it is ignition)
Tried wiggling the cables etc didn't cut out.
Not the side stand, it will cut out in neutral whilst on the stand with the side stand up or down.
When it is up to temp it will just die and the fuel pump continues to whine for a moment or two, if on the road it can fire again before the pump stops and start otherwise if the spark doesn't come back before the pumps finishes you have to hit the starter and then it will fire straight away.

Being temperature driven makes me suspect the coil or hall sensors, and the fact the pump continues to run makes me suspect the same.

Ah well out with the multimeter.

Shez
 
Shez_ow01 said:
This is getting stranger and stranger.

It is affected by temperature, it will run fine until the temp gauge has 3 or four bars up and will then start cutting out.
The cut out is total and the rev counter dies even though the engine is still turning (so it is ignition)
Tried wiggling the cables etc didn't cut out.
Not the side stand, it will cut out in neutral whilst on the stand with the side stand up or down.
When it is up to temp it will just die and the fuel pump continues to whine for a moment or two, if on the road it can fire again before the pump stops and start otherwise if the spark doesn't come back before the pumps finishes you have to hit the starter and then it will fire straight away.

Being temperature driven makes me suspect the coil or hall sensors, and the fact the pump continues to run makes me suspect the same.

Ah well out with the multimeter.

Shez
Click to expand...

Hi Shez,

since you are going to be checking your bike with Multimeter, can you measure the resistance of the Temp Sensor in the top of the air box for me and let me know what reading you get ? so that i can compare it to mine.

Cheers,

Piggers
 
Will do might be a couple of weeks though, have to get an Italian bike off the bench first before the Beemer can get on there, and I only have evenings to finish that (weekends are for racing :) )

Shez
 
MMMm. DOn't know how much use this will be but I will post anyway - I had a similar problem with my previous R1100S. It turned out to be a faulty sensor on the fuel pump which basically (if I remember rightly) gave false 'overheating warnings' to the fuel pump after about 15 to 20 minutes of riding, causing it to turn off, hence bringing the bike to a stop ... happening in Hong Kong's busiest cross-harbour tunnel during rush-hour is NOT fu**ing funny :mad: !

When BMW got to the bottom of it (and it took them a while to figure it out!) they replaced the fuel pump with all the sensors - I will see if there are any pics of it because I think I previously posted on another forum.

Just a thought.

Nick
 
Hi again,

Anybody know of any independents around Berkshire/Hampshire who can run diagnostics on an 1150gs, last time I took it to a main dealer is cost me over 500 quid for diagnostics and Hall sensors I cant afford that every 6 months on a workhorse.

TIA
Shez
 
you live practically next door to London - so let 'the man' fix your bike.

I just had my hall sensor replaced. cost me £35 for the labour (including diagnostic) plus the price of the part from Motorworks. (this with my local independent in Nottingham)

I'm not sure what Steptoes labour charges are but you can bet it will be cheaper than a stealership.. and you can be assured that your bike will be fixed. you also will have the pleasure of an 1100 as a loan bike for the period your bikes being fixed.
 
Oh thanks, I didn't know he did. I don't read a lot on forums so don't keep up with things..
Excellent thank you

Shez
 
Nice man :)
Going to try one more thing before carting it off to SW London.

Shez
 
Piggers said:
Hi Shez,

since you are going to be checking your bike with Multimeter, can you measure the resistance of the Temp Sensor in the top of the air box for me and let me know what reading you get ? so that i can compare it to mine.

Cheers,

Piggers
Click to expand...

No Need for the Resistance of the Air Temp Sensor, as I found it in another post.


Cheers,

Piggers
 
AFAIK if it is the hall sensor again you are entitled to a warranty repair. Every single item that is replaced with OEM from a BMW authorised service and is not regarded a wear item (brake pads etc...) HAS to be warrantied.
 
This is still happening and is driving me mad.
So far I have replaced;
Hall sensors
coil
Leads
Plugs
Throttle cables (they were a little frayed)
Fuel filter
I have wiped out the inside of the tank with a cloth to ensure there is no water in there.
I have checked the ignition switch wire
I have balanced the throttle bodies.

It is happening less but when it happens it tries to kill me.

It is now always after closing the throttle for a curve, lights or similar, the engine will die, sometimes it will need starting on the button sometimes it will try to catch again by itself that is when it tries to kill you lurching firing missing etc which is quite alarming in a bend.

Any ideas anybody other than a match....

TIA

Shez
 
Hi, is the connection plug from your tank secure and making a good contact, after i changed the clutch on my old r850r i had a similar problem with a dogy connection in the connector block, on my 1100gs i had a loose connection on one of the injectors causing the bike to cut out at certain speeds where vibrations were more pronounced,
as the bike has been stripped for those new parts to be put on it could be possible that there is a connection amiss somewhere, i personally would whip the tank off and check the various connectors along the loom for shite in the contacts, put back together and try it again.
good luck with the problem though
 
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