Flying Snakes and the kindness of strangers...
- Thread starter Edventure
- Start date
GreatScott
Registered user
Captain Colonial
Guest
Folks a quick update on the tracker, if you look at the previous tracks you will see the sort of distances he was covering on a daily basis 666 / 360 / 490 etc. To do this just add a tick in the box TRACK next to his name. I assume the first day of 5634 kms is just the tracker waking up and coming on line, that or he is due the all time Iron Butt world record.
I was watching him all the way down through Morocco and then on into Western Sahara. The point we can see is the last fix before he crossed into Mauritania on the 11th, we can see from his posts and a text message I received that he is now in Mali.
However, the sim card in the tracker obviously wasn't compatible with Mauritanian Telecoms so we are all hoping that Mali has a more helpful telecom network. If not we may have to wait intil the next country for the live feed.
It is real James Bond stuff and watching him approach a hair pin earlier in the trip and then, as the tracker refreshed, watch him clear the bend and off dow the main highway, was quite something.
It all seems a little voyeuristic, but its great fun.
Ed I'm dead impressed with the tyre life. Ride safely and keep posting.
I was watching him all the way down through Morocco and then on into Western Sahara. The point we can see is the last fix before he crossed into Mauritania on the 11th, we can see from his posts and a text message I received that he is now in Mali.
However, the sim card in the tracker obviously wasn't compatible with Mauritanian Telecoms so we are all hoping that Mali has a more helpful telecom network. If not we may have to wait intil the next country for the live feed.
It is real James Bond stuff and watching him approach a hair pin earlier in the trip and then, as the tracker refreshed, watch him clear the bend and off dow the main highway, was quite something.
It all seems a little voyeuristic, but its great fun.
Ed I'm dead impressed with the tyre life. Ride safely and keep posting.
Captain Colonial
Guest
Anothe quick point, if you log onto Edstracking wed site and soom out to 200m / 500Kms you get a good idea of how much of Africa he still has to cross and the details fo all the conutnries between him and Port Harcourt in Nigeria. Every time I look I can't help thinking He's Mad..... wonderfully gloriously and completely MAD, but that probably jusy jealousy.
Captain Colonial
Guest
Note to self, type slower and proof read your posts, you wouldn't think English was my first language to read my last posts.
swissrob
Registered user
i fly to mali each month and gsm reception it limited to say the least ( unless he gets a local sim) so it may be a while until we get an update on position
The fuel bandits of Magta Lahar
Getting out of Nouakchott was painful. The streets are full of sand and traffic is dense. There appear to be no rules of the road apart from barge your way through. I decide that I’m going to try and head for Kiffa tonight, that should put me in easy reach of the Mali border. The road itself is pretty good so I bomb along at a fair old lick, keeping an eye out for stray donkeys, goats and camels. The roadsides are littered with the desiccated corpses of donkeys, cows and goats. Another feature of Mauritanian travel is the Police presence, nearly every village has a Police checkpoint where as a foreigner you have to show your passport and wait for them to fill in a fiche or if you have your own fiche, give them a copy.
The countryside is still pretty much desert and while I can see the appeal of it I must admit I long to see some greenery.
Mindful of my previous fuel experience I keep checking for petrol stations. The few petrol stations I find have no petrol, only Gasoil (diesel). Oh no, here we go again!
By the time I reach Magta Lahar the computer is telling me I have 80 miles left; not enough to get to Kiffa even with my fuel can on the back. I search for a filling station, they all say “rien d’essence”, bugger!.
The 3rd one tells me they have a little petrol. How much I ask? 6 litres they say, The price is 6000 Ougidya. What!! That is roughly €24, daylight bloody robbery. I curse and cajole them but they aren’t budging. I then get on the Islamic track. “surely Islam requires you to help travellers in need” I say. They can’t deny that and the price comes down to 4000 Ougidya, still absolute robbery but they have the fuel, I don’t and I can’t buy it anywhere else.
Feeling somewhat aggrieved I carry on, slowly to Kiffa, stopping only for intermittent sand storms! It’s 42 degrees and I’m sweating like a pig, I haven’t had a pee all day though I have probably drunk 4 or 5 litres of water.
I arrive at the Auberge du Phare au Sahara, a salubrious establishment, NOT!! It’s about 6:30pm, darkness is not far away and it’s still 40 degrees. Thankfully the room has some form of aircon and I manage to get a few hours of sleep.
Getting out of Nouakchott was painful. The streets are full of sand and traffic is dense. There appear to be no rules of the road apart from barge your way through. I decide that I’m going to try and head for Kiffa tonight, that should put me in easy reach of the Mali border. The road itself is pretty good so I bomb along at a fair old lick, keeping an eye out for stray donkeys, goats and camels. The roadsides are littered with the desiccated corpses of donkeys, cows and goats. Another feature of Mauritanian travel is the Police presence, nearly every village has a Police checkpoint where as a foreigner you have to show your passport and wait for them to fill in a fiche or if you have your own fiche, give them a copy.
The countryside is still pretty much desert and while I can see the appeal of it I must admit I long to see some greenery.
Mindful of my previous fuel experience I keep checking for petrol stations. The few petrol stations I find have no petrol, only Gasoil (diesel). Oh no, here we go again!
By the time I reach Magta Lahar the computer is telling me I have 80 miles left; not enough to get to Kiffa even with my fuel can on the back. I search for a filling station, they all say “rien d’essence”, bugger!.
The 3rd one tells me they have a little petrol. How much I ask? 6 litres they say, The price is 6000 Ougidya. What!! That is roughly €24, daylight bloody robbery. I curse and cajole them but they aren’t budging. I then get on the Islamic track. “surely Islam requires you to help travellers in need” I say. They can’t deny that and the price comes down to 4000 Ougidya, still absolute robbery but they have the fuel, I don’t and I can’t buy it anywhere else.
Feeling somewhat aggrieved I carry on, slowly to Kiffa, stopping only for intermittent sand storms! It’s 42 degrees and I’m sweating like a pig, I haven’t had a pee all day though I have probably drunk 4 or 5 litres of water.
I arrive at the Auberge du Phare au Sahara, a salubrious establishment, NOT!! It’s about 6:30pm, darkness is not far away and it’s still 40 degrees. Thankfully the room has some form of aircon and I manage to get a few hours of sleep.
Attachments
Break for the border!
I leave Kiffa after buying petrol, I also get an old oil container and fill that as well. Sure enough there is no petrol to be found anywhere else and I am thankful for my additional reserves. The road in the meantime is deteriorating rapidly, large potholes abound, then with no warning the road just stops. Dead! There is a 4 mile detour off road. Deep joy! Massive ruts you could lose a car in but thankfully off road chicken that I am, I manage to negotiate the GS across. The bizarre thing is that I have seen coaches coming up the road so they must have had to take the same route. The road to the border takes you through the small town of Ayoun el Atrouss, not that notable.
Crossing the border is uneventful, just a bit time consuming, Police, Visa, Customs, Police again and then buying insurance. By the time I have all this done it’s nearly 6:00pm and I really should be looking for somewhere to sleep. The nearest town is Nioro but I can’t find anywhere there so I figure I’ll just have to camp in the bush. I plough on. The difference in the countryside between Mauritania and Mali is tremendous. While the parts of Mauritania I passed through were mainly desert Mali however is very green in comparison. I see my first Baobab tree of the trip and feel that I’m now truly in Africa.
Because the difference in landscape between countries is so pronounced it makes you wonder how the countries borders were decided. Did someone (the French) say, “OK you guys here have this crap bit of land and you guys over here get the lush stuff”?
Anyway, it’s getting dark fast, I forget how quickly night falls in Africa, and I have nowhere to sleep. I keep looking for areas that I can get off the road and camp but there are big drainage ditches either side of the road and while I’m contemplating these, bang, it’s dark! Bugger, what do I do now?
I break the cardinal rule. Never drive at night here, especially on a bike. There are too many hazards, cows, goats, donkeys, and people and of course the road itself, potholes ruts etc. I figure I don’t have an option though and stupid it may be I press on for 3 hours towards Bamako. Luckily the bike has HID lights which illuminate the road pretty well. I pass through a few small villages but nowhere to sleep. Eventually I come to a petrol station on the outskirts of a small village; I’m so tired at this stage I have to stop. I ask the guys at the petrol station if there is anywhere I can pitch my tent. They point at some waste ground and I pitch the tent by the headlights of the bike. The guys invite me to eat with them for which I’m grateful as I haven’t eaten since breakfast and I’m at the stage where I could eat a scabby dog! This is eating African style, there is a big communal pot filled with rice and meat in a sauce. You dip your hand in (right hand only, the left is kept for more unsavoury uses!) and scoop out some food. It is delicious, whatever it is. I don’t ask!
It turns out the guys are soldiers guarding a Western Union cash place. Apparently bandits are on the prowl and this place is on the menu. I have a fitful nights sleep worrying about snakes crawling into my tent and bandits!
I leave Kiffa after buying petrol, I also get an old oil container and fill that as well. Sure enough there is no petrol to be found anywhere else and I am thankful for my additional reserves. The road in the meantime is deteriorating rapidly, large potholes abound, then with no warning the road just stops. Dead! There is a 4 mile detour off road. Deep joy! Massive ruts you could lose a car in but thankfully off road chicken that I am, I manage to negotiate the GS across. The bizarre thing is that I have seen coaches coming up the road so they must have had to take the same route. The road to the border takes you through the small town of Ayoun el Atrouss, not that notable.
Crossing the border is uneventful, just a bit time consuming, Police, Visa, Customs, Police again and then buying insurance. By the time I have all this done it’s nearly 6:00pm and I really should be looking for somewhere to sleep. The nearest town is Nioro but I can’t find anywhere there so I figure I’ll just have to camp in the bush. I plough on. The difference in the countryside between Mauritania and Mali is tremendous. While the parts of Mauritania I passed through were mainly desert Mali however is very green in comparison. I see my first Baobab tree of the trip and feel that I’m now truly in Africa.
Because the difference in landscape between countries is so pronounced it makes you wonder how the countries borders were decided. Did someone (the French) say, “OK you guys here have this crap bit of land and you guys over here get the lush stuff”?
Anyway, it’s getting dark fast, I forget how quickly night falls in Africa, and I have nowhere to sleep. I keep looking for areas that I can get off the road and camp but there are big drainage ditches either side of the road and while I’m contemplating these, bang, it’s dark! Bugger, what do I do now?
I break the cardinal rule. Never drive at night here, especially on a bike. There are too many hazards, cows, goats, donkeys, and people and of course the road itself, potholes ruts etc. I figure I don’t have an option though and stupid it may be I press on for 3 hours towards Bamako. Luckily the bike has HID lights which illuminate the road pretty well. I pass through a few small villages but nowhere to sleep. Eventually I come to a petrol station on the outskirts of a small village; I’m so tired at this stage I have to stop. I ask the guys at the petrol station if there is anywhere I can pitch my tent. They point at some waste ground and I pitch the tent by the headlights of the bike. The guys invite me to eat with them for which I’m grateful as I haven’t eaten since breakfast and I’m at the stage where I could eat a scabby dog! This is eating African style, there is a big communal pot filled with rice and meat in a sauce. You dip your hand in (right hand only, the left is kept for more unsavoury uses!) and scoop out some food. It is delicious, whatever it is. I don’t ask!
It turns out the guys are soldiers guarding a Western Union cash place. Apparently bandits are on the prowl and this place is on the menu. I have a fitful nights sleep worrying about snakes crawling into my tent and bandits!
Attachments
The road to Bamako
The morning sees me on the road to Bamako. I stink like a goat and I’m need of a shower. I stop at the roadside and but mangos from some delightful kids. 4 for 10p. They don’t have change so I give them 500CFA, 70 pence. We’re all happy.
One of the things I notice most about Mali is the profusion of motorbike; they are everywhere whereas in Mauritania I hardly saw a bike. To me bikes mean petrol and sure enough you can buy petrol everywhere. Hoorah!!
The morning sees me on the road to Bamako. I stink like a goat and I’m need of a shower. I stop at the roadside and but mangos from some delightful kids. 4 for 10p. They don’t have change so I give them 500CFA, 70 pence. We’re all happy.
One of the things I notice most about Mali is the profusion of motorbike; they are everywhere whereas in Mauritania I hardly saw a bike. To me bikes mean petrol and sure enough you can buy petrol everywhere. Hoorah!!
Attachments
Bamako, c'set bon!!
The descent over the hills into Bamako is spectacular, very green and I get a glimpse of the mighty river Niger. The roads into the city are great big wide tree lined avenues and you can see the colonial influence immediately. I check into the biggest, most lavish hotel with a view of the river I can find, get into my air-conditioned room and head for a shower. This afternoon I get the off road tyres fitted to the bike by a man who uses his feet to get the tyres over the rim. Amazing and faster than you’d get it done at home. No balancing kit but what do you expect for £2.00?!!
Tomorrow I head for Burkina Faso
The descent over the hills into Bamako is spectacular, very green and I get a glimpse of the mighty river Niger. The roads into the city are great big wide tree lined avenues and you can see the colonial influence immediately. I check into the biggest, most lavish hotel with a view of the river I can find, get into my air-conditioned room and head for a shower. This afternoon I get the off road tyres fitted to the bike by a man who uses his feet to get the tyres over the rim. Amazing and faster than you’d get it done at home. No balancing kit but what do you expect for £2.00?!!
Tomorrow I head for Burkina Faso
Attachments
Fantastic report Eventure, looking forward to the next installment........
This is a really great report to read and I can't wait for the next well written instalment. Truly inspiring - and a really brave epic adventure to undertake on your own.
Keep safe Ed and keep the reports coming
Keep safe Ed and keep the reports coming
GreatScott
Registered user
This is a really great report to read and I can't wait for the next well written instalment. Truly inspiring - and a really brave epic adventure to undertake on your own.
Keep safe Ed and keep the reports coming
+1 I'm hooked. Ed has my vote for the best ride report yet - and he hasn't finished yet. Good stuff
+1 I'm hooked. Ed has my vote for the best ride report yet - and he hasn't finished yet. Good stuff
+2 Ravenbyrne and I love the reports. Well done for the guts to do it and the fantastic writing. Your discriptions are brilliant - having smelt goats before I got too real an understanding of your need for a shower!!!
Keep them coming and be safe.
Spear Ruler
Ed this is fantastic 
your living the dream riding the adventure for what it was made for
hats off to you mate keep them coming for all us dreamers
your living the dream riding the adventure for what it was made for hats off to you mate keep them coming for all us dreamers
Jeannot
Registered user
Amazing report, stuff of the legends, and ballsy to being on your own.
JC
JC
Zareeba
Guest
Ed, awesome feedback and well done on the hardest part (getting through all that sand). 
Glad you took my advice to do some offroad training. Well, if the bug still bites and you want to head further south beyond Nigeria. I'll come up and meet you in Luanda and ride down to Cape Town together. Mike
Glad you took my advice to do some offroad training. Well, if the bug still bites and you want to head further south beyond Nigeria. I'll come up and meet you in Luanda and ride down to Cape Town together. Mike
Thanks for showing us what the "A" in GSA stands for.
Far away is only far away until you get there.
keep safe, but stretch that envelope
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