Starter Strip

Been using one of those the past 18 months with no issues.
 
Starter motors still available at a reasonable price from Germany

http://www.ebay.de/itm/Anlasser-fur...623439?hash=item5d6338c54f:g:3qQAAOSwJQdW-UGf

Thanks for this just ordered one.

Mines been playing up the last few months.

Seems to not want to start when the bike is warm fine when cold.....

No idea what causes it but for £40 for new one I can fit it and have a look at the old one and refurbish it

Cheers

H

Sent from my SM-T230 using Tapatalk
Fitted a few weeks now no issues whatsoever and the fault I had is now gone :)



Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
 
A good find, but can someone tell me if this would fit my 1996/7/8 1100gs?
It states 1998/9 but are they that different?
 
Magnets

About the 4 magnets, I had all of them off the housing (one had a chip off piece, about 1/6 of the piece, hope it still works), now ready to put them on with J-Weld adhesive. I understand they should not be placed randomly, so what is the right order to place them, may I know? My guts tell me if as long as all magnets (by their 2 sides) are not on opposing poles, meaning they stick together it should be fine. But pls enlighten me coz I dont want to bond them wrongly. My ride is R1150GSA an oilhead so it's counter clockwise Valeo starter that I am working on.
 
the gear that slides on the helical cut shaft (that causes it to 'throw out') I want to remove it.

Reason is that I have starting / electrical problems (see this thread XXX (still being written up))
I removed the starter assembly and that shaft was very much gummed up and stiff.
I want to remove the gear, get in to the helix and give it a good clean
At the end is a black bushing / washer that seems to have a snap ring inside it.

First - how do I remove that washer
second - should I lubricate the helix gear?
third - with what should I lubricate it with?

thanks
 
While youve got the unit apart, use some very fine wet and dry paper to clean the commutator,

And use the non toothed side of a hacksaw blade to run through the individual segments on

the commutator, this removes the carbon build up, which can cause slow resistance problems

as the commutator passes the magnets

Also check the bendix gear teeth to see if there damaged, and make sure the bendix gear

rotates along the shaft, and returns freely when operated.

The bearing at the end of the bendix gear shaft housing is usually a lubricated phosphor

bronze type, generally trouble free, but check to make sure it hasnt dried out, or worn oval

Also check the solenoid arm is free, and moves the bendix gear up the shaft.

In essence its a very small pre engaged starter motor, very similar to what is used in

automotive applications



Mart
 
just bought and fitted an Anlasser one, as posted by Tim , found them on ebay brand new in germany 66 euro including dhl postage , exellent
 
Just a quick line to say thanks to MikeP for posting the strip down guide.

My starter was displaying the sluggish turning symptoms as described and would sometimes engage with the usual clunk, but not turn at all. Took it off the bike and found the pinion shaft to be very dirty and gunked up with black dirt and dust. Stripped the starter motor armature out and found that gunked up with old grease and dirt too. The grease catch plate had also come free and was starting to rub on the front armature windings and short out through the plate against the shaft. Luckily, damage to both was minimal and the magnets were still firmly in place.

Old grease and dirt all cleaned out, new grease on the gears, catch plate tabs tweaked outwards and plate re-fixed in place, pinion, Bendix and bushes lubricated. Starter reassembled and now spins up a treat.


One thing that worries me; MikeP has (Dead) after his username - I hope that's not the case?
 
Sadly Mike passed away a while ago.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I’ve just stripped my starter motor and given it a good clean. What a difference !! ABS lights now go out straight away after a few metres and the engine cranks over nicely . I particularly concentrated on the armature where the brushes make contact and cleaned until it was back to a nice copper colour
 
I'd like to add to this thread with a bit of info that might help someone in the future.

My starter failed with a fractured magnet and a kind forum member sent me a spare parts one which 'had problems' which he had long since replaced. I figured that I would only need to change the housing with magnets to get a working starter motor.

It turns out that on both of these starters the grease flinger disc had become loose on the armature and the magnets had pulled the disc towards the winding and worn away the insulation causing the armature winding to arc through the disc, effectively dead-shorting the unit. Here is the armature removed from the starter and the rather battered disc, you can see both where the copper is exposed from the armature rubbing on the loose disc and the hot spots on the disc where the arc has been passing through it. To remove the armature you have to remove the brushes then gently pry the plastic end housing off the metal casing and copper posts. Pull off the grease cap and remove a small clip that holds the shaft in.

starter repair (1).jpg

Now if you have a starter that's been messing about when cranking then gone on to just rapid-clacking when the button is pressed, this might be the cause. A short-term fix would be to strip off the motor and remove that plate, then there is nothing to short against but equally there's no longer any barrier between the motor and the epicyclic reduction box.

My remedy, because I have the tools to do it, was to re-insulate the windings and make a new flinger. I got some winding sealer left over from another job and painted it over the exposed winding ends

starter repair (2).jpg

Whilst that was drying I turned a new flinger from all bar, and pressed it on to the armature stopping just short of touching. The flinger is 1mm thick and the hole in the hub 12.3mm

starter repair (3).jpg

starter repair (4).jpg

starter repair (5).jpg

Re-fitting the armature into the housing. It has 2 thin washers and a small clip under the grease cap.

starter repair (6).jpg

Scrape out the dry grease from the grease cap, add about 1/4 full of fresh grease and gently tap it back in place

starter repair (7).jpg

When you re-fit the brushes you'll have to hold the housing in place whilst re-fitting the metal end cap, or the brush springs will push it upwards. It's a simple task.

starter repair (8).jpg

So, with the new flinger in place (and not shorting the windings) the starter went back in and works perfectly once more. As I said above, in a pinch you might get away without the metal flinger for a while, though I suspect that it would eventually get fouled with debris from the gearbox. You could even try aralditing the disc back on with a paper shim inside to stop it shorting on the exposed copper, if you fancied it might work.
 


Back
Top Bottom