New Manufactured Drive Shafts?
- Thread starter andyfrizzle
- Start date
Beemerboff
Registered user
Motorworks are now listing them too, same price as a new OEM shaft.
new shaft
ordered one from motorworks today , they said they would have them in stock in about 5 days .
was going to get one from hendersons (twice !!!!! , both times the money had to go on something else ) .
only read good things about hendersons work , lets hope this is a one off .
ordered one from motorworks today , they said they would have them in stock in about 5 days .
was going to get one from hendersons (twice !!!!! , both times the money had to go on something else ) .
only read good things about hendersons work , lets hope this is a one off .
Beemerboff
Registered user
I was holding off until BBS quoted a price, but I have my order in to Motorworks too- EU 495- is a good bit more than a stock shaft.
still waiting
still waiting for my shaft , talked to motorworks and they say it has to come from taiwan .
is time diferent in the far east ( like dog years maybe ) .
just want my bike back on the road .
still waiting for my shaft , talked to motorworks and they say it has to come from taiwan .
is time diferent in the far east ( like dog years maybe ) .
just want my bike back on the road .
stash
Registered user
Hi Toadjam, can you go as far back as 1981 in the Shetland Isles. If so you may have seen me on my R80G/S. It was the only one on the islands in those days. Say hello to Hillswick. Regards, Stan.
Beemerboff
Registered user
My shaft was picked up from Motorworks yesterday by Parcelfarce and is currently airborne.
Hope it isn't too dusty when it gets here-----.
Hope it isn't too dusty when it gets here-----.
new shaft
shaft arrived on fri , serious airhead porn (sorry no photos , i'm a pretechnologist ) .
bolted it to output shaft then tried to fit swingarm , no efin chance . measured at bearing it was 4mm wider .
finally persuaded it to fit (1hr later) with piece of wood and 2lb tapping stick .
anybody else bought one yet , i think this is the only problem with them . they really are a bonnie piece of kit .
shaft arrived on fri , serious airhead porn (sorry no photos , i'm a pretechnologist ) .
bolted it to output shaft then tried to fit swingarm , no efin chance . measured at bearing it was 4mm wider .
finally persuaded it to fit (1hr later) with piece of wood and 2lb tapping stick .
anybody else bought one yet , i think this is the only problem with them . they really are a bonnie piece of kit .
Beemerboff
Registered user
Mine arrived Monday morning, along with bits for my other bikes which I fitted first and I havent tried to fit the shaft yet.
No digital camera here either but looks a quality bit of gear. I fed the number on the UJ into Google but all I could find was a trade name dispute - a established company called Voci Toyo versus a new company calling itself - Voci Toyo UJ 18759 ?
Where was the conflict and how did you solve it - was it a case of cleaning casting flash out of the inside of the paralever, reducing the size of the ears on the UJ, brute force and , err, encouragement, or a combination of all three.
My concern would be that it may touch again dering suspension movement.
No digital camera here either but looks a quality bit of gear. I fed the number on the UJ into Google but all I could find was a trade name dispute - a established company called Voci Toyo versus a new company calling itself - Voci Toyo UJ 18759 ?
Where was the conflict and how did you solve it - was it a case of cleaning casting flash out of the inside of the paralever, reducing the size of the ears on the UJ, brute force and , err, encouragement, or a combination of all three.
My concern would be that it may touch again dering suspension movement.
I got mine "done" by the late Erich Demant. The inside of the shaft casing needed "easing" with a cutter/rasp in and electric drill. There's plenty of meat there to play with.
IF you don't ease it, it will be a real twat to get out I suspect.
John
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Surely you shouldn't have to do this on a new shaft.
Maybe the best route is still a new OE replacement ( or reconditioned ) which just fits on and should last 40,000 miles
Hey just my humble opinion
Maybe the best route is still a new OE replacement ( or reconditioned ) which just fits on and should last 40,000 miles
Hey just my humble opinion
Beemerboff
Registered user
The only guy left repairing shafts in Adelaide fixed mine by Tig welding the caps in, rather than fitting a circlip, and a new shaft would cost me $260- more from Motorworks or $650- more if bought locally..
I aint even going to fit the welded shaft, and as he also swapped the good internals in my gearbox while fitting a rear bearing and replaced them with crap I have a major court case coming up- I am suing him for a new box and shaft.
My new Motorworks shaft is 1/10 of an inch wider than the old one, and doesn't get past the indent for the rear tire half way down the paralever. However there is a mold line either side of the paralever and removing them will get me at least half of that, so it doesnt look too bad.
I imagine the repaired shaft like the HPM which are extended to take a circlip would have a similar problem.
I aint even going to fit the welded shaft, and as he also swapped the good internals in my gearbox while fitting a rear bearing and replaced them with crap I have a major court case coming up- I am suing him for a new box and shaft.
My new Motorworks shaft is 1/10 of an inch wider than the old one, and doesn't get past the indent for the rear tire half way down the paralever. However there is a mold line either side of the paralever and removing them will get me at least half of that, so it doesnt look too bad.
I imagine the repaired shaft like the HPM which are extended to take a circlip would have a similar problem.
back on the road
got bike back together again . redboots is right about cleaning out the swingarm with a rasp ( my prob was the lack of one ) . the inside of the arm is rough sand cast , shaft has just polished two lines down the centre of it , hasn't actually taken much metal off .
replaced swingarm and bevel pivot bearings aswell , don't know if its just in my head but the back end feels a lot smoother .
only done about 200 miles so far ( shetland only 90 miles long , and that includes 2 ferry rides ) .
got bike back together again . redboots is right about cleaning out the swingarm with a rasp ( my prob was the lack of one ) . the inside of the arm is rough sand cast , shaft has just polished two lines down the centre of it , hasn't actually taken much metal off .
replaced swingarm and bevel pivot bearings aswell , don't know if its just in my head but the back end feels a lot smoother .
only done about 200 miles so far ( shetland only 90 miles long , and that includes 2 ferry rides ) .
igormortis
Registered user
Beemerboff and toadjam - have you guys put some mileage on these shafts by now? Any observations to report?
Beemerboff
Registered user
Not done a huge mileage - I was off bikes for three months with a chest infection and I have been putting a few Ks on my /7 and G/S as well, but no problems so far in 10,000 km.
Notice that Motorworks now has the full repair kit, incl two joints and the cush joint rubbers for GBP27- so a extra long life is not that important.
Notice that Motorworks now has the full repair kit, incl two joints and the cush joint rubbers for GBP27- so a extra long life is not that important.
igormortis
Registered user
Thanks mate. There was talk over at advrider about a certain component functioning or not functioning as a bearing - the circlip perhaps? - but your mileage so far and the available repair kit gives some confidence. Cheers.
Beemerboff
Registered user
It is critical to get good lube on the splines, the stock stuff doesn't cut it.
A few years ago the stuff sold by Renault dealers for the CV joints on their FWD cars was the best around, and it was the only thing which would stop the splines on a Triumph IRS from locking up, and locking the suspension.
I still had half a tube left and use it on the BMW splines, it improves suspension action too, so it must work.
If the same thing happens on the BMW drive shaft and the splines lock up it will try to pull the shaft apart, and the circlip at the cush joint is the weakest point.
So good lube is essential.
I wouldn't pay too much attention to the yank assholes on ADV - I doubt if many even own a bike - they just trawl the net looking for a chance to vent their potty mouth and look clever, but ask a question which needs a bit knowledge and you wont get a sensible answer, other than parroting out something they have read somewhere, and usually dont understand.
A few years ago the stuff sold by Renault dealers for the CV joints on their FWD cars was the best around, and it was the only thing which would stop the splines on a Triumph IRS from locking up, and locking the suspension.
I still had half a tube left and use it on the BMW splines, it improves suspension action too, so it must work.
If the same thing happens on the BMW drive shaft and the splines lock up it will try to pull the shaft apart, and the circlip at the cush joint is the weakest point.
So good lube is essential.
I wouldn't pay too much attention to the yank assholes on ADV - I doubt if many even own a bike - they just trawl the net looking for a chance to vent their potty mouth and look clever, but ask a question which needs a bit knowledge and you wont get a sensible answer, other than parroting out something they have read somewhere, and usually dont understand.
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