Simple, NO COST servo removal of 1150 IABS system

Very good idea! Thanks.

Ah...it would also be a good place for a rostra cruise control servo box....

Remember yours is an RS and think how long does it take you to get to that undertank spot ??


Perhaps move the battery into the forward spot and fit gadgetry behind it in the vacant battery spot (Remember your cables are on the underside in the cable box before you start pulling the cradle out, if you are thinking of just spinning it around!)

Access will still be a bit restricted in the RS but at least you won;t have to remove panels and tank etc to get in to check stuff
 
Last year I decided to do something with the empty space on my 1150GS.
A smaller battery, which I still had in reserve from my 1200 RnineT, was placed transversely so I didn't have to adjust the battery cabling.
Replace the fuel tank bolt with an easily accessible pin.
The room now contains an Airman compressor and tools to repair punctures.
Pictures will clarify:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/fVTfiKTWWciDUjZGA
https://photos.app.goo.gl/GsY1Wu6mCj1d8Pzp6
https://photos.app.goo.gl/VtEmJrHPigvpNhGm6
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Nc6KUawjdcnjG9MV7
https://photos.app.goo.gl/hhp2WLmMeB7PMdjv8
 
I have a 2003 R1150RT. I did the servoectomy and my general warning light is flashing at 4 Hz. The manual says this is low fluid level. The were 2 connectors for fluid level in the ABS, but I think I was supposed to leave those loose, correct? Do I just need to remove this light?
 
I have a 2003 R1150RT. I did the servoectomy and my general warning light is flashing at 4 Hz. The manual says this is low fluid level. The were 2 connectors for fluid level in the ABS, but I think I was supposed to leave those loose, correct? Do I just need to remove this light?
Yes just remove the light blue relay (ABS) in the fuse box and remove the bulb or bulbs in the dash

depending how your MOT person is? Remove the sensors and tone rings and if they ask you replaced the FD with an ABS one as you need to leave the speed sensor in to seal it up !
 
Another thanks for this thread. After 20 years, the ABS started, to use a technical term, buggering me about big time, so it had to go. About 2 hours all in. Would have been a bit less had the bolt that holds the splitter at the front not welded itself into the frame and snapped off. There's always something...
 
Couldn't get brake lights to work off ECU brain so wired original micro switches in series to 5 pin relay and wired straight to stop lamp. Simple and inexpensive if any one else ends up in this particular corner. Rode it today and everything seems to work well enough to remind me of why I bought it in the first place. Thanks to everyone who helped push my repairs in the right direction.
Can you please post some photos of what you did and how you did this. Thanks
 
Go and read the first post in the thread

Also post 195 is an easier way to do it Which is linked in the first post
Okay so there has been much talk of the "new" method, it has actually been around for quite a while!

I can claim no credit for this procedure and my apologies for schite photos it wasn't meant to be a process I just figured (when I was halfway through removing one for a mate) it was time folks stopped cutting their wiring looms and causing themselves grief

Why use it over the original first post ?? Okay whilst I did use that method a couple of times and it is fine it leaves a weak point in the wiring

Its "basically" the same process for any of the bikes with servo ABS the 1200 Hexhead bikes have no blue relay to "pull" and the GS has surface mount LED for warning lights so all you do is remove bulbs from the panels (or in the GS case paint the LED with black nail polish and/or the warning indicator cut out )

Its simple I snip the pipes with a decent pair of diagonal cutters Basically it seals the pipes and prevents fluid spillage as you lift the unit out

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the electronics plug is removed by extending the slide lock and lifting up Careful you need this to refit so don't break it! :rob

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This is the bit that you need I cut the wires already I very much doubt anyone will ever have enough money to refit the ABS pump section and fear that they "might" wear through on components in the electronics You could fill the box with silicone and embed them Basically whatever floats your boat!

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the are 4 connections from the electronics box and two from the ABS unit

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A standard UK front or rear number plate cut to length is almost perfect for sealing the electronics box up

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This sounds good but does not help the no brake light issue. I have the same ABS unit you have pictured.
 
This sounds good but does not help the no brake light issue.
Yes it does (should), because retaining the ABS/Servo ECU retains standard operation of the tail/brake lights. I followed this approach a couple of months ago and it worked just fine - no wiring changes required.
 
This sounds good but does not help the no brake light issue. I have the same ABS unit you have pictured.
Okay so have you checked the bulb and connections etc etc before you go down the line of snipping wires?

Remember Servo ABS are normally closed switches and break contact with the ECU to switch on the brake lamp
 


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