Workshop jobs

How long does it take to re-grease the gearbox drive?


And will I need to replace the drive shaft boot?








Depends what kind of a bastard the new gaitor is to fit, but usually under 2.5 hours..
 
How long does it take to replace the crankshaft output oil seal on an R60?

Final drive and swing arm off to get the gearbox out or move the engine forward? (Maybe I should ask Proff to look in his Clymer manual:D Oops, that will be the one that I still have:augie All photographed and on a RAM stick, so the paper is going home soon.)

What parts are needed beyond the seal and flywheel bolts, I'm assuming that they are a one time use consumable?

Is it worth it for a very slight leak resulting in an oil film below the flywheel housing on the ledge at the rear of the crankcase?

I haven't topped up the bike in over 1,000 miles and it is still above the low mark on the dipstick.
 
How long does it take to replace the crankshaft output oil seal on an R60?

Final drive and swing arm off to get the gearbox out or move the engine forward? (Maybe I should ask Proff to look in his Clymer manual:D Oops, that will be the one that I still have:augie All photographed and on a RAM stick, so the paper is going home soon.)

What parts are needed beyond the seal and flywheel bolts, I'm assuming that they are a one time use consumable?

Is it worth it for a very slight leak resulting in an oil film below the flywheel housing on the ledge at the rear of the crankcase?

I haven't topped up the bike in over 1,000 miles and it is still above the low mark on the dipstick.

To keep the engine 'solid' while you work on it, I would remove the final drive and slide the gearbox back and out. I've removed my gearbox three times this way :blast and it's quite quick - an hour-ish. Don't forget new stretch-bolts :)
 
would like help to replace the pushrod tubes with shiny stainless ones, not a job i know how to do on my 80 g/s.
could we check valve clearances and end float too while it is in bits?

am coming down friday if that helps clear a slot on a ramp late friday/early saturday or whatever suits:thumb

thanks
how much
 
??:nenau??

Next, I've been looking at the pretty pictures in the Clymer book but they don't even mention an oil seal at the back of the crank.

Stretch bolts BMW part no. 26111242297.

MotorWorks Part No. is: TRA42297 (Universal Joint Bolt).

Motobins Part No. 54000.

Have a look at RealOEM.com for parts fiches. There's a link from Motorworks website. :thumb2
 
My steering head bearings had an advisory at the last MOT. Today I actually investigated the idea of doing the job (well, adjusting anyway) The bolts that go through the clamp that holds the pad that the hazard switch on, are tack welded onto this bracket!

So, if a grinder is available, this would be a good job to get out of the way.:)
 
Drive shaft splines, now there's an idea....

I may even bring down the sonic tank for some carb cleaning if needed..
 
carb cleaning. :D My 100RT is prone to stalling when puling away, I thought I read somewhere that it's down to err "something" being blocked?
 
Drive shaft splines, now there's an idea....

I may even bring down the sonic tank for some carb cleaning if needed..


:thumb2:thumb2:thumb2

carb cleaning. :D My 100RT is prone to stalling when puling away, I thought I read somewhere that it's down to err "something" being blocked?

I bet you've still got the stupid white pipes in the intake tubes :blast


It looks like there will be 2 Electric lifts this year, as I've accquired another one:augie being as Sid wouldn't let me have the first one back :thedummy

Also 2 full hydraulic lifts and 2 possibly 3 hydraulic scissor type scissor type...
 
Confirmed that we now definitely have four bike bench/lifts.:) Two manually pumped up ones and two super duper electric ones so plenty of space for working on lots of bikes over the weekend. Workshop is now better equiped than most bike shops in this area.:) I should have enough decent tools to go around so no need to bring tools with you. I've extended the work surface all around and fitted three new vices. We've got two compressors and air tools for the stubborn nuts.

Bought myself a sand blasting kit recently and given it a try. A bit messy. Managed to sand blast my carb tops, my arms, my forehead and every other exposed part of my body.:) I might need to modify the area a bit before it is used again.

If there is anything specific that anyone will need then let me know, but I think we have most things covered.:)
 
Originally Posted by ELIMINATOR
carb cleaning. My 100RT is prone to stalling when puling away, I thought I read somewhere that it's down to err "something" being blocked?

I bet you've still got the stupid white pipes in the intake tubes


:confused:
 
Originally Posted by ELIMINATOR
carb cleaning. My 100RT is prone to stalling when puling away, I thought I read somewhere that it's down to err "something" being blocked?

I bet you've still got the stupid white pipes in the intake tubes


:confused:

Inside the airbox. The ones from the engine oil breather.
 
Coming along nicely :D

My NEW Lift

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Sids RS is looking Good :mad:thumb2

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