Fried F800GS Stator

Same problem, I have sent my bike to the worship to have the stator rewound. The cost is 300 euro, the BMW part costs 700 euro. Expensive. The battery has been replaced THREE times, first time under guarantee. What if the alternator was faulty since the beginning?
 
Same problem, I have sent my bike to the worship to have the stator rewound. The cost is 300 euro, the BMW part costs 700 euro. Expensive. The battery has been replaced THREE times, first time under guarantee. What if the alternator was faulty since the beginning?

Rhetorical question I'm afraid .... we'll never know the answer :blast

Welcome to UKGSer .... wish we had met under better circumstances ;)

Best of luck with it ... hope you changed the rectifier at the same time, 'cos if it's that that was faulty then it will all happen again :nenau

:beerjug:
 
Same problem, I have sent my bike to the worship to have the stator rewound. The cost is 300 euro, the BMW part costs 700 euro. Expensive. The battery has been replaced THREE times, first time under guarantee. What if the alternator was faulty since the beginning?

Small update about my situation.
After I had my stator rewound (130€) I also installed "just in case" this regulator and this voltometer (to check the status of the battery).
10.000 km later I have no problems.
 
I just replaced the second stator with a after market one. The side cover becomes very hot on long runs. My info red meter read 250 F. after a hot day run. They need better cooling.
 
Sorry chaps ... but I'd fit the genuine parts every time :nenau

Alternator AND rectifier ...

Yes, it is a known problem, but really quite rare in the eternal plan of things, and certainly, by the sound of it, cheaper in the long run ;)

:beerjug:
 
Stator/Regulator

I just wondered if you get any warning of the regulator failing or does it just start cooking things for you as you ride along unaware? If so for a few quid would a small LED voltmeter as mentioned in one of the posts be worth addding as a monitor? Going the other way voltage wise my battery was knackered recently and I had warning lights on the clocks plus the rear light wouldnt come on

My heated grips also work fine in the summer then seem to stop soon as it drops below freezing... put it down to character ;)
 
Sorry chaps ... but I'd fit the genuine parts every time :nenau

Alternator AND rectifier ...

That's Genuine BRANDED parts as made by the "Ying Tong Yiddle I Po Co." of China? :aidan
(Other industrialized nations are available for the manufacture of "Genuine" parts)

By Alternator, I presume you mean just the Stator and not the Rotor as well as "suggested" by BMW.:eek:

Yes, it is a known problem, but really quite rare in the eternal plan of things, and certainly, by the sound of it, cheaper in the long run ;)

:beerjug:
Except at 45-50,000 miles a year and with all the other "issues" and consumables, things can get very expensive.
Clearly, if your bike is still in warranty then genuine parts will normally be required....but then if they are faulty they will be replaced under warranty any way.
That is if any warranty is not invalidated by say, being a professional motorcyclist!

I use genuine oil and air filters as they are cheap enough, but chain and sprockets, brake pads, BEARINGS:)blast), Stator....???? Feck no!!
 
I just wondered if you get any warning of the regulator failing or does it just start cooking things for you as you ride along unaware? If so for a few quid would a small LED voltmeter as mentioned in one of the posts be worth addding as a monitor? Going the other way voltage wise my battery was knackered recently and I had warning lights on the clocks plus the rear light wouldnt come on

My heated grips also work fine in the summer then seem to stop soon as it drops below freezing... put it down to character ;)

Oh yes! 'Tis always worth fitting a voltmeter (I used one of these and "weatherproofed" it). It would certainly give warning of a failed charging system - possibly a failing rectifier as well if an earth related fault. Maybe not if it just over heats and dies :nenau. Better to be proactive and regularly check the earth connections. And maybe ride with loads of fairy lights, electrical accessories etc on all the time to use up all the excess power produced by the alternator.
 
Cheers Rick I'll look at getting something installed then the halfords one looks comprehensive compared to the stuff on ebay, been looking at converting a pannier over to a 12v coolbox for optimum beer temperatures on weekends away so that'll draw a few amps 'off' in the interests of regulator safety :beer:
 
That's Genuine BRANDED parts as made by the "Ying Tong Yiddle I Po Co." of China? :aidan

By Alternator, I presume you mean just the Stator and not the Rotor as well as "suggested" by BMW.:eek:

That is if any warranty is not invalidated by say, being a professional motorcyclist!

I use genuine oil and air filters as they are cheap enough, but chain and sprockets, brake pads, BEARINGS:)blast), Stator....???? Feck no!!

Ha ha well there you go, you pays your money and takes your chances. Each to their own ....

Rectifier and Stator at 63,300 miles, now at 110,000 miles so I'm well happy :D
Original front pads changed at 87,500 miles, still well serviceable, but replaced by genuine BMW pads ... cheap at half the price :cool:
 
I suppose the cost impact with 110,000 miles over 5-6 years is a bit different to 110,000 over 2-2.5 years :tears

I must have changed my stator around that mileage as well - didn't bother with the rectifier though, just fitted the aforementioned voltmeter and at about 90,000 miles (not sure exact mileage due to ABS CANbus issue!!) all seams ok.

Actually, how does one get hold of a "genuine" BMW stator on its own if BMW will only sell it with the rotor as a set?

Gotta agree about the brake pads! I only started buying cheaper organic pads to save wear on the brake discs.
 
I suppose the cost impact with 110,000 miles over 5-6 years is a bit different to 110,000 over 2-2.5 years :tears

I must have changed my stator around that mileage as well - didn't bother with the rectifier though, just fitted the aforementioned voltmeter and at about 90,000 miles (not sure exact mileage due to ABS CANbus issue!!) all seams ok.

Actually, how does one get hold of a "genuine" BMW stator on its own if BMW will only sell it with the rotor as a set?

Gotta agree about the brake pads! I only started buying cheaper organic pads to save wear on the brake discs.

Well 110,000 miles in 2 - 2 1/2 years is pretty damned impressive, so what mileage is on it now?

Well it came with the rotor if you know anyone that just wants a rotor :nenau

Buying cheaper pads to save on disc wear? mmmmm I use only original pads to save on disc wear .... I'm still on the original discs!

You mention 'consumerables' .... apart from oil and oil filter (genuine BMW possibly made in Taiwan) there's only the chain and sprockets, and head bearings of course .... head bearings now 'sussed' methinks ;)

Chain and sprockets? Original sprockets (16 tooth gearbox) and DID Gold Professional chain only ... again, probably cheaper in the long run, all renewed together :D

Edit ... Just re read 90,000 miles! Is that all ;)
 
:blast Not wishing to linger off topic too much, but feel I might need to clarify a few things......

I bought my 09 800GS in Jan last year with about 16,500 miles on it. The 110,000 miles in 2-2.5 years is an extrapolation based on current use.
The fact you have to buy the stator with the rotor from BMW will be more than enough reason for most people to go for rewinds or aftermarket.
Regarding the brake pads, reread my comment. The key word there was ORGANIC. Ie no metal particles like sintered pads have and less abrasive on the discs. And I'm still on the original rattly front and rear discs as well.

Chain & Sprockets?? JT sprockets every time (I wonder who makes the"genuine BMW ones??) Why not BMW chain if genuine is best?

My mileage is what it is. Nothing glamorous to write home about. Just 99.9% courier use (not many long legged bikes with 85hp that can handle pot holes and other similar obsticles.....and average 65mpg).
 
:blast Not wishing to linger off topic too much, but feel I might need to clarify a few things......

You don't need to clarify anything, as I said, each to their own. You pay your money and takes your choice :D

I'm a cantankerous and grumpy old git, nudging seventy, and I've ended up where I have with riding motorcycles professionally for over fifty years. I broke my 800 out of the crate in April 2008 and done the whole of the 110,00 miles myself. It's been overlanded to Morocco, Northern Africa, through Europe, Iran and Pakistan and the Karakorum Highway. Plenty of off-roading (the bike is better at it than me) The Stella Alpina a couple of times.

The only spanners'n sockets laid on the bike have been in my hand ... so I've worked out over the years what works for me .... and that's good enough for me ;)
 
Good stuff :thumb2
My choices are based on not paying overinflated prices unneccessarily.

I've been to Newcastle and Leeds a few times! :p
I even took my old thumper up Fays Passage in Guildford once.
 
.....been looking at converting a pannier over to a 12v coolbox for optimum beer temperatures on weekends away so that'll draw a few amps 'off' in the interests of regulator safety :beer:

Me likey!! :beerjug:
And a 12v oven in the other pannier??
 


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