Fried F800GS Stator

Does not the rectifier take the out put from the stator and then reduce the voltage and change AC to DC. So how could the R/C damage the stator. It could damage the battery by sending to much voltage to it. Help me out if I don't understand correctly.
 
In a word - HEAT. If the regulator/rectifier can't dump enough unused power, the stator gets a bit warm!
Anyways, seeing as the rotor has been redesigned to provide better cooling it seems that the stator (pre 2012?) was doomed from the start: No oil cooling; shunt type regulator and; positioned right behind the headers!!:blast I guess the designers hadn't heard of Finite Element Analysis :duno (renewed gripes cos second stator has just burnt out! :mad:)

Still averaging about 65mpg though :thumb2 :beerjug:
 
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Well here is mine, removed today, not a big job, 30 mins and I'm no mechanic.
Thanks to this thread I tested with bike running, number 3 cable providing only 5 Volts. Awaiting an email to send away for rewind, I would buy BM but whats the point if I might have to replace again in 20,000 miles.
This BM part should be at cost price due to its FAULT in manufacture / design.
 
Just fitted the eBay German item, looks really nice, brand new not a rewind, fitted easy and no one for one finalagins. Time will tell of quality.
 
I think he means no exchange required? anyway glad you've sorted it :thumb2

I might get one to carry in the topbox as a spare next to the wheel bearings, headstock bearings, chain, can of black engine spray...;)

AL
 
Correct, sorry should have posted, as said, in English, some stator sales require your old stator, burn the nuts out of it, rewire and send back, something like that anyway.
As far as other parts, it really pisses me of that modern bikes are crap, have issues that the manufacturers don't want to fix, they take your hard earned pound and and piss on you, until you want a replacement, then, again, they sale you a bullet proof bike that's gonna fail at Your cost, all the more reason I hang on to my dommie nx650 and xt600 34L, not bullet proof but own me very little and cheap ish to repair. - sorry, just back from the pub :)
 
Not just the new bikes- what about the built-in faults of the paralever drive shafts and gearboxes on the airhead GS? All fail after about 30-40,000 miles. Expensive!
 
Help

So I've disconnected and removed the side cover and removed the 3 bolts on the stator but I cannot remove the 2 screws. I'll squirt some WD40 on them to see if that eases them up, any other advice?

Once these 2 screws are removed how does the actual stator come out from from the side cover? Should it just seperate, it seems pretty tight in their?

Edit: Nevermind... A good screw driver and plenty of downward pressure and they popped!

IMG_3551_zps5406104e.jpg
 
Anyone fitted a SERIES regulator? Standard shunt regulators keep the stator at maximum current, and therefore heat, all the time, dumping surplus energy as heat. A SERIES unit open circuits the stator when it's not needed, keeping it cooler and longer lived. Compu-Fire units are recommended.
 
Mines just died it seems after fitting a new battery last weekend. Matt from oxford bmw suggested it would be the alternator & it was expensive to replace; £624! Thankfully you guys have filled me in with a cheaper route. Anyone know of a rewinding company in west-midlands or banbury?
 
Mines just died it seems after fitting a new battery last weekend. Matt from oxford bmw suggested it would be the alternator & it was expensive to replace; £624! Thankfully you guys have filled me in with a cheaper route. Anyone know of a rewinding company in west-midlands or banbury?

Hi GunZenBomZ

Did you find a rewinding company near Banbury?
My Voltage Rectifier/Alternator failed on Saturday ('09 with 75,000 miles) and I'm looking into rewinding the stator..
 
Hi GunZenBomZ

Did you find a rewinding company near Banbury?
My Voltage Rectifier/Alternator failed on Saturday ('09 with 75,000 miles) and I'm looking into rewinding the stator..

Post it to westcountrywindings, they'll have it done within a couple of days and post it back to you.
 
Post it to westcountrywindings, they'll have it done within a couple of days and post it back to you.
Thanks Stephen..
I emailed west country windings for a quote, came in at £126, I'll send it off to them if I can't find anyone closer to me to do it.
 
Hi All,
will resurrect this old thread,hoping someone can either confirm or correct me.

f800gs got more difficult to start up so pulled the battery and give it a proper charge. bike was running fine whole week until today- again difficult to start.
so started up, and with multimeter checked across terminals, reved to about 5k and voltage stayed at about 11.5 - so not charging.
1.
took our regulator, that have three yellow wires, two green and two red/white. checked diodes with negative on yellow and positive on green terminals, nice consistent readings at about 470. then swapped leads and had positive on yellow wires and negative on red/white and again nice consistent readings across all three yellow at about 460. is this the correct way to check the regulator and if yes I believe the test proved regulator to be fine?
2.
stator, checked resistance across three yellow wires and was getting about 005 ohms which again I believe is ok? started bike, reved to about 5k and was getting about 80-90V AC, again I believe thats correct?
however, when I checked for the continuity in between yellow and engine bolts (earth) I get continuity signal, would that mean my coils are burned and shorting ?

is it pretty safe to say i need a new stator? I dont want to pull the cover off and check for burned stator (apparently pretty common on bmw 800) as I like to charge the battery and need to use bike until new one arrive and I can swap it hopefully without leaving me stranded :)

cheers
joe
 
Your alternator output voltage readings look suspect..
With the engine turning at 3,000 rpm, a healthy alternator should be putting out 55 > 60 Volts AC, on all three winding's.

One of these can be helpful, when the charging circuit throws the towel in..
LED Motorcycle Battery Alternator Charge monitor level indicator £17.99 :cool:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200826330214
 
yes, i too think stator(alternator) is the issue, but not because of the voltage, you are mentioning 50-60 V at 3k RPM, I wrote 80-90V at 5k RPM which is about right. I believe the continuity between yellow wires and earth is wrong, hence thinking there is short cos burned coils?
 


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