Bleeding 'jobs'

PhaedrusMC · May 30, 2017

Is it as simple as M10? Are there thread pitch or bolt length factors too? My questions probably seem to be making this a bigger deal than it is. Just don't want to end up buying stuff that turns out to be wrong or superfluous.

I've bled/flushed the brakes on three of my cars and a couple of bikes I've had, all with no issues and the appropriate expected results. If feels more important on my GS. Looking forward to doing it.

To replace all the fluid in front brakes, rear brake and clutch, what capacity/volume of fluid should I expect to use?

Thanks folks. :thumb2

cloudswiper · May 30, 2017

Just replaced my clutch remote bleed unit as grub screw was seized.
Procedure exactly as in your post #39
Used Stahlbus brake bleed valve M10x1.0 | BRA41650 (Motorworks part number)
Probably fancier than I need but does a great job.

Slipperyeel · May 30, 2017

I did the same a while back.

I lost the little piece of neoprene tubing used to cover the old bleeder valve. Try to keep this and fit it over the new bleeder valve. It does offer it a little protection

Here's the speed bleeder I fitted, also from MW.

PhaedrusMC · Oct 4, 2017

Steptoe said:
Bleeding order - front abs modulator nipple then front calipers. Rear abs modulator nipple then rear caliper. Although it doesn't matter In what order you start as front and rear systems are separate.

Just cos I know Steptoe loves it when lads overthink things and make them more complicated than they need to be...

I take it that order is for the usual bleed method of pumping the lever or pedal and bleeding out of the nipples on the calipers and the control unit. What if a lad fancied reverse-bleeding - pumping or syringing into the caliper and control unit, and removing the old fluid as it comes out at the reservoir? Should the order then be different? Is it even possible to reverse-bleed a system that has a control unit?

Steptoe · Oct 4, 2017

PhaedrusMC said:
Just cos I know Steptoe loves it when lads overthink things and make them more complicated than they need to be...

I take it that order is for the usual bleed method of pumping the lever or pedal and bleeding out of the nipples on the calipers and the control unit. What if a lad fancied reverse-bleeding - pumping or syringing into the caliper and control unit, and removing the old fluid as it comes out at the reservoir? Should the order then be different? Is it even possible to reverse-bleed a system that has a control unit?

Try it and see, then you can become the expert on how make a simple job over-complicated.

If the end result is the same always take the easiest simplest route.

PhaedrusMC · Oct 4, 2017

Steptoe said:
Try it and see, then you can become the expert on how make a simple job over-complicated.

If the end result is the same always take the easiest simplest route.

Been perfecting that all my life... :blast

Bleeding 'jobs'

PhaedrusMC

Well-known member

cloudswiper

Member

Slipperyeel

Well-known member

PhaedrusMC

Well-known member

Steptoe

What a waste.

PhaedrusMC

Well-known member

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