Bleeding 'jobs'

Paul G (BHT)

Paul G (BHT)

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Took the 1100 for its MOT last week and for the first time in 13 years she let me down :(

She passed the MOT with flying colours but, during the test, it looked like the battery had suddenly gone duff and she refused to start. Once home it soon became evident that it was a loose earth connection on the battery.

So today I decided to lift the rear of the tank to get a spanner in to tighten the bolt.

In doing so I noticed the 2 breather pipes were showing signs of cracking so, I decided to take the tank off to replace these.

Ah this will be a good time to change the L/R QD connector (its an Adventure tank) while the tank is off.

With tank now off and me covered in petrol I thought ooh I have a spare fuel filter on the bench, I'll put that in..... so off with the fuel pump plate and after an easy filter swap, it went back nice and easy.

Now while the tank was off I thought now would be a good time to bleed the brakes and ABS unit....

So a simple tightening of a bolt has led to 4 other jobs one of which I've been meaning to do for the last 12 years :eek: :augie

Question is, do I start bleeding from the ABS unit first and then calipers last or the other way round?
 
Thanks chaps :thumb2

I'll flush out the murky old stuff this week.... quickly followed up by a ':blast my breaks won't now work' thread :D
 
it's an 1100. don't you just bleed from the callipers? i thought it was only the servo units that needed bleeding from the ABS unit :confused:

never needed to do it on non servo 1150s.
 
i've never bled the pump. it's the same fluid in one circuit. put it in at the master cylinder and it comes out at the calliper. maybe if you fit new hoses or ABS unit, you'd need to bleed at the pump.

if it's a servo there's two circuits that do have to be bled seperately.
 
Vern said:
And how many miles did the bike do inbetween MOTs then sir:augie
Click to expand...
A mere 3,500 this year :(

How does one bleed the Donkey then? Just the callipers or ABS unit too.... If the ABS unit needs to be done, which one of the 2 nipples on there needs doing.... Or is one for the rear circuit and one for the front?
 
According to manual on 1150 front circuit on ABS is marked VR, the rear marked HR. So for front brakes bleed VR nipple then calliper with shorter line the other one (longer line ) etc. Dunno if 1100 is same but similar anyway
 
Paul G (BHT) said:
There are two bleed nipples on the ABS unit.... what would they be for if bleeding is just done from the callipers?
Click to expand...

Those are for bleeding from if you ever break into the brake system - i.e. change a brake line/caliper sort of stuff. :D
 
Steptoe said:
Those are for bleeding from if you ever break into the brake system - i.e. change a brake line/caliper sort of stuff. :D
Click to expand...

So for a simple fluid change don't touch them?.... if so that makes things a lot easier.... unless I change the front flexi while I'm at it.
 
which front flexi?

A From the handlebars to the solid pipes or B the solid pipes to the callipers?

A the air will bleed back up thru the master cylinder

B the air will bleed to the brake calliper but you may have a wee bubble at the top banjo connection that can be a pain in the arse to be rid off

My advice Suck the crap out of the master cylinder clean the reservoir (if dirty) put in fresh fluid and pump it out the relevant nipple (V = vorderrad or front wheel H = hinterrad, rear wheel) on the ABS unit then once that is out fresh and clean

Just pump on down thru the callipers and you are good for 2 more years!

OBVIOUSLY don't let it run low of fluid at the master cylinder or your simple "flushing exercise" WILL become a "bleeding exercise!"
 
Thanks again chaps, I'm due to get my eyes lasered next week so I better get it done and back together before then in case it all goes pear shaped :D
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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