Round 2: Another European Sortie

Porat to Sibernik

Hmmm. Where to go today? Well, ultimately my need is South now, so it seems a shame to go back North to go over the bridge- and I'd already done that Northern section of Dalmatian Coast running down from Rijeka.

I sit outside for a breakfast of Coffee, Bread and Jam. 'Here you are' says the young girl. 'Would you like anything else?' she asks. 'Is there anything else?' I ask. 'Well, ah, no' she giggles. 'In that case put me down for nothing'. She giggles and wanders off.
I attack the jam but so do the wasps. Remember: if you splat one, ten come to the funeral. I shift everything on to another table and look at the map.

Porat harbour from the top box..

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There's a lady from Dublin and her Austrian husband sat at the opposite table. She sees my England rugby t-shirt and comes and says hello. It's a very pleasant holiday conversation in good humour. Over time they say they've been to other parts of Croatia and they like Sibenik. 'Aha!' I say, since I needed inspiration that's where I will go, and with a little internet I work out I can take a ferry to the Island of Rab and then another ferry on to the mainland. Excellent.

The ferry is taken from just a few KM from Porat. I fill up at the OMV station by the ferry area. There are two ferries- one for the island of Cres, which is very busy, and one for Rab, much less so. That works for me as folks will get turned away from this Cres crossing for sure. There's a lot of stressed looking tourists cooking in their cars.

Aboard the little ferry for very peaceful hour and a half crossing and I sort out some photos and miscellaneous bits and bobs on the laptop.

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We arrive at Lopar on the Island of Rab just after 1pm. It is a nice island, I'd say nicer than Krk; quainter, less busy, which would figure as it's harder to get to, duh. I float down into Rab town, and there's a barrier to get in. The fella just waves me around with a smile. That's cool.

Rab town is very nice indeed. Think sort of Rhodes old town without all of the sales pitch cretinous folk. Not as old of course, but it has definite charm, and one to revisit.

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I can't find any stickers, encountering more of 'what for?' questions to which I explain and get laughs and 'no sorry'.

I stop for lunch. Pizza with fiery peppers, just by the beach in a shady tree lined spot. Lovely. I'm starting to get a bit paranoid about the GS and all the weight, as it's so hot. Creative use of straps moors it to a church sign. It was a good move, the tarmac had started to melt time I got back. I just can't easily get it on the centre stand loaded, and my attempts thus far have almost knackered the sole of my right boot.. :eek

You can probably just make out the inventive use of the straps ;)

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I head again South briefly to get a ferry back on to the mainland. As I descend towards the ferry I see it arriving, so a rapid turnaround for ticket for a just a few Hrvattys and I'm on.

There's entertainment in the ferry Queue..

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The splendour of Croatian archipelago, from the ferry rails..

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A quick crossing and then I'm back on to the Glorious Dalmatian Highway.

Of course, given it was July, and the amount of cars I'd seen on Krk I was expecting it to be Chaos on the coast road. Well.. nothing like it. I think I saw two cars which I quickly passed and twenty or so minutes later I'm back in Karlobag, where I stayed back in June. I've still got the hotel Wi-fi remembered on the laptop, so I stop, have coca-cola and water several times around and put up a couple of updates I've written.

Up pulls a fella on a Spanish registered 1100GS. We chat. His name is Francesco. 'Frank' he says, to compensate for my clumsy mispronounciation of what I think is actually 'Franthisco'. A nice guy on his way to Athens from his home town of Pamplona. He's done a massive hit and is here in two days. Credit to him. He's a good guy to chat to. He stays at the hotel, I advise him he shouldn't be worried about going to Albania and give him a few more tips. It's all well received. 'When you are in Spain in September look me up' he says 'I will be glad to help' and gives me his e-mail address. A handshake and he's off to the hotel.

Frank's GS with what he summarises as a 'questionable' 39k KM's. Looks pretty tidy though. I like his passenger.

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I try and sort out a place to stop in Sibenik, but I have one of those kind of brain freezes I do occasionally and things are taking much much longer than they really should. Indeed. Frank has re-emerged in his sports gear and is off for a jog. By the time I'm sorted with lodgings in Sibnick it's late- Garmin suggests an arrival time of 21:38. Sigh.

Of course, Professor Piehead has ignored the 'LAMPF' message, having his two little GSA Xmas tree lights available and using them as has put things off with all of this other enjoyment stuff going on. This will be touch and go. I have a quick fiddle but no joy, and decide that I'll best use the light available and crack on.

A view of what a quiet evening on the Dalmatian Highway has to offer..

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So I crack on. I have the most wondourous evening riding, I kid you not. It's cool, quiet and I float along. There's some side wind blasts, which this area is famous for. Not optimal but nothing scary. I get flashes from oncoming cars and back off. Policja. I tootle past, hopeful for no enquires vis-a-vis lighting arrangements. Good, they're not interested.

The highway ends for now and it's on to the A1 to make for Sibernik. The light has gone now, but fortunately the GSA fogs are doing a decent job, so I'll wrap up things tonight with these. The Croatian motorway is splendid and it is an easy 40 mins to Sibernik, even with my feeble fairy lighting and it isn't pitch black.
Here's a suggestion: If you need to munch distance in hot climes, then think seriously about doing it at night. It is quiet, peaceful, easy peasy and damned pleasant at 29 degrees when compared to the approaching 35 degrees of the daytime, and of course that sunshine.

'LAMPF'. FFS.

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I get in to Sibernik and eventually find my rooms lodging. It's really very pleasant, big double bed, balcony, helpful land lady.

Out for a couple of ales at the local Pizzeria. The local ale appears to be 'Pan'. It's great, so I don't mind being one of Pan's people, not at all.

Back to base; I might just stay and explore tomorrow, sort out fecking 'LAMPF' too.
 
A day orf in Sibernik

The land lady has shifted a few things around so I can have en extra day here and stay in the same room. So that's sorted, it'll be a day off. I catch up on a few bits and bobs and then decide to head in to Sibernik, which is a sort of a ten minute hop up on the bike. Easy parking sorted, a walk round, an Orange Ice Cream and a souvenir shop that knows what a sticker is :)

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A splendid place for a mooch..

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How refreshingly honest :D

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You've come a long way, baby..

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So back to the apartment for a snooze and a watch of some the Olympics. Same Pizzeria again in the evening for a nibble of Gnocchi and a couple more Pan :beer:

Not much more to report.. Heading south again tomorrow :thumb
 
You have me hooked now, I look forward to your next instalment.

Regards Count Pikey:thumb2
 
Cheers again folks :thumb2

Updates will thin out a little- I've caught up with myself pretty much now, and got a few days out on the beach coming up. I'll probably be posting some drivel or other though :p
 
Sibernik to Dubrovnik

In e-mail dispatches things are coming together in terms of mapping out the next couple of weeks. We have a couple of days in Dubrovnik, back up to Split, across to the Island of Hvar for a five nights, down to Mostar for a peek, then an indulgent quick dart over to Sarajevo.

I've had mails from friends in Germany and Sweden, so that looks like places to float to after, and I'd really like to czech out Prague (geddit? :D)

Up and out to make a tea on the patio this morning prior to departure.

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Very pleasant, and I'm off at 9.15. I watch a bit of BBC breakfast on the laptop, normally I find myself thoroughly nauseated by it, but this morning there's some interest and it seems I'm finally truly mellowing out, discarding 20 years of being a wound-tight office jockey.

I've messed around with bulbs but still dreaded LAMPF, so that fiasco is carried over. I've sorted out a bit of other wiring, and also changed the position of my water bottle from at the front of the crash bars to in the cockpit by the GPS. Just a bit easier and I don't need to have 'oops up side yer head' dancing sort of moments to try and get a drink whilst I'm on the bike.
It's actually great and refreshment on the go is very useful. I didn't realise how hot it got under that screen though. In about 20 minutes of running in warm weather my peach Iced tea has gone from Iced tea to hot peach tea. But that's cool (well not cool as it were) because it actually tastes like normal fruit tea when warmed up and that's good by me. It's a good tip, Iced tea because it's the drink for all seasons, and hot water isn't very pleasant at all.

It's a cut across from Sibernik down to the coast road again, the hilly area being much less well kept but interesting all the same.

View to the coast from up in the hills..

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Back on the coast road towards Split. The traffic builds up but there's no rush so it's all OK, and there's a bit of friendly filtering (read barging too) which is all made better with a wave and a smile. Everyone is in holiday mood so it seems.

Enthusiastic flashing from an Africa Twin headed opposite indicated Policija, all is mellow as I'm tootling. Only one roadside Policja is seen today.

Through the busy town of Omis. Screech Powers operating the whistle.. The on the go picture doesn't give the hat topped perm full justice- shame.

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Where to go.. So much choice, so little time?

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Stopping for some fruit juice. If I were to tell you this were right by the road you'd never believe me..

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I cross through the short coastal stretch of Bosnia Herzegovina..

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A local demonstrates the local 'Scalextric' treatment of straddling double white lines..

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..and shortly later I'm heading in to Dubrovnik where I meet up with my brother.

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We've got an apartment booked at the interestingly self assuringly named 'Best Apartments Roxy', which should by rights really be named the 'Snug Apartments Roxy'. Inside you could certainly swing a cat, but it would have to be a hard as nails cat that didn't mind hitting several walls as it was swung around. But, on the upside the washing machine that is virtually positioned inside the shower cubicle works so it's time to do a bit of domestic stuff.

Out into the old town, which is quite a remarkable sightseeing destination. We stop for a drink at the appropriately named 'Buza' where we enjoy a beer overlooking the Nature Reserve Island of Lokrum and a chat to a couple of very charming London girls. Today's beer is 'Ozjusko'.

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These shorts are Brillo..

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The old town harbour..

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A bite to eat, a stroll around the streets and a stop in a bar to watch some Olympic stuff where we have a lousy Mojito. A very pissed local joins us and wants to talk topical issues, asking 'why we give passports to Indians'. Given ere was zero ambiance and the cocktails even worse we decide to retire. Considering that the opening badly slurred statement from said pissed local was most likely a preamble to start talking about hate in local terms, we'll give that a miss.

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The streets are full of English speakers. There seems a particular concentration of New York (or Neeew Yoik) Americans.

Back to base for a rest.
 
A day orf in Dubrovnik

Secure Parking, Dubrovnik Style..

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Inviting Beach Coves..

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The place is adorned with 'Hed Kandi' artwork album cover style crumpet, it's all very distracting. Since I don't want to get arrested for any Chuck Berry style offences you'll best make do with this..*

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*Of course, keen eyed report observers will note I've already snapped a recent photo of a genteleman's bottom. So in the interests of fairness I'll try to square things up for you when I can, and most likely at some point when I can get the camera sound to stop on the mobile phone.

A cappuccino in the Roxy Bar, which has an interesting soundtrack, veering all over the place; Jethro Tull, some fascinating Status Quo crossed accordion fusion outfit; a reggae version of Boney M's 'Brown Girl in the Ring'.

I'm joined by a fellow '09 GSA owner. One of those jolly fast red ones. Perfect taste. It's done roughly the same mileage as mine and he likes it a lot.

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Brother has brought some jolly holiday reading material, a little light Julian Barnes and his meditations on death. Way to get in that holiday mood eh..

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A little bit of Cricket on the old laptop..

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Afternoon on the beach, a couple of hours in the sea.

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Fish restaurant tonight, me thinks.. :bounce1
 
Dubrovnik to Split

Last night was spent wandering around the old town, having a bit of dinner, and sampling several fine Croatian wines at a place called 'D'Vino'. Croatia has some excellent wines and a splendid evening had following some very knowledgeable recommendations.

Quaffing a cheeky little red number..

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One last evening on Dubrovnik's spectacular rocky coast..

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A walk home last night and found a lot of padlocks attached to the fencing at the cliff tops; security love tokens pledging endless love for the likes of 'Ivan and Doris'..

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I couldn't let a visit to Dubrovnik slide without the advertisements for the Topless DJ, Rapira, whom we didn't get a chance to look in on.. shame.. :tears

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Today we ride up to Split. I couldn't say I was particularly forward to it- it is blisteringly hot. And to add to my discomfort woes, I spent a good deal of time wandering in my swimming shorts yesterday, and they were a little less comfortable than ideal- challenges with the mesh lining that has resulted in substantial chafing in the widget area :eek:

Anyhow, finally get the bike loaded up and off. As well as all of my gear, it now has Nick's small Samsonite Roll along suitcase lashed atop the top box. We look ridiculously loaded up. I'll get a picture up when I can get one.
Despite all of the weight and paraphernalia it's a decent ride; a fair amount of traffic but a fine stuff and again tribute to the Wilbers ESA which keeps things nice and composed.
A milkshake in Makarska and mid-afternoon, and an hour or so later we've reached Split.
My brother, in charge of accommodation has booked the Hotel Spinut, which turns out to be the Hostel Spinut. Still, it's clean, cheap and cheerful.

Off for a walk to the old town. Me walking like John Wayne though.
 
:clap:clap:clap blessed relief for us stuck in the humdrum of work , home work, home:thumb2
 
Ta folks :thumb

Split to Hvar

Last night involved a walk into the old town of Split, about a 15 minute yomp in to town, passing through the outskirts of the city.
Gents arguing over a game of bowls looking remarkably similar to our very own David Bryant game.. More bowls than boules.

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Particularly Impressive with a bustling promenade and a view of the Roman Diocletian's palace around which Split surrounds.

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Square out to the harbour front..

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A few Pivo and some street food, well sort of, courtesy of 'Big Macho Burger' :D

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I don't know how to term people from Split. Is it Splitters? No idea. Anyway the folk here have an impressive love of the local football team, Hajduk, and you cannot travel a few miles for badges, logos, impressively decorated bus shelters.. running all the way down the coast to Dubrovnik and beyond.
I do believe there's a historic symbolism between Croatia and the club itself, I'll have to read more about it.

A logo'd garage..

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They also do Rugby evidently. Never knew that. I'll check that out..

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No anything here..

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The following morning I'm up early and bike loaded with all the gear. It's already impossibly hot at 9am, still it's not exactly hassle.

A short ride to the port to rendezvous with an 11am ferry, briefly stopping for a fill up at an INA station where a cheery old boy is all smiles.

The ride into Split port is busy and we hit traffic. Tootling round with passenger and serious luggage demands effort and planning and 'very difficult' is a terrific understatement. Wobble, stop, start, foot down to that hot climate icy sort of concrete, wobble, start, wobble, repeat. Still, we manage OK all considered and descend into the port.

People are stopping, pointing, taking photos and giggling at the unfeasably loaded GS. A Chicago American stops by. 'How do you manage with the weight?' he asks. 'Me or the bike?' I reply. We have a laugh and a quick chat.

Fairly loaded up.. :eek

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The port is chaos but we're let in after a few enquiries to a loading point behind a barrier and safely away from the melee. The traffic builds to a sort of gridlock, with the incoming ferry now unloading. There's much tooting, waving of hands etc until a local Policija aboard an RT arrives to sort it all out.

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Two tickets for the two hour crossing to Stari Grad are procured, plus one for the bike all for just under twenty quid. Soon enough we're on, being directed to a place by a Jadrolinija Jimmy Saville-a-like, to which we get to and I moor up the bike and have it more or less leaning on a bulkhead, which I feel is a wise move given its current snail like profile. Another Jadrolinija official appears and tells us 'not there' and casting a drinky drinky motion towards said Saville clearly implying that he's been at the gargle. It turns out I've parked the bike facing the wrong way, as originally instructed. It’s favourable to be how we're set now, so I politely ignore the fella figuring turning the bike around will be a damned sight easier than trying to pick it up.

Off at the island, GS safely extracted amidst predictable chaos. A short run across to the tiny coastal village of Milna and we're safely nestled into the apartment.
 
The Island of Hvar

Well, it's time for a break for a few days. Hvar is a very pretty place.

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The island is a rocky affair, with pretty coves and the splendid harbour town of Hvar itself. We're based some 5km or so outside the town and it's a short spin in on the GS for a bit of essentials shopping.

After a dip in the sea it is time some lunch. A generous Tuna salad starter..

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.. Steak Carcpaccio..

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.. And some Mixed Moules.. ;)

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..watching the fishermen at work in their tiny boats..

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The sun sets and it is time to head to town. Great hospitality- though the iron at the apartment doesn't work- 'Bring us your things and we'll iron them' they tell us. All so very friendly. We're given a ride into town by the son-in-law of the owner of the apartments (Ure- it's 'George' in English he says) in his Mitsubishi Shogun. I bounce about in the back with Ure's two kids who are shy of this odd looking loud shirted stranger. We talk bikes for a bit: 'You are on a good bike' he says; we briefly discuss the merits of the 1200GS. He has a Aprilia 650 Pegaso which he describes as 'A disaster. Lots of electrical problems'. He continues 'It gets boring in the winter' he says 'so we do a lot of off roading. I do two trips usually, one out, and then I go back to pick up all of the bits of bike that have fallen off' :) Looking at the landscape of Hvar I can guess his bike gets a good workout.

Hvar has become more popular for the younger set so I learn- but there's a great mix of all ages and a relaxed vibe. I'm no snob, but I'm too far long in the tooth for 'oggy oggy oggy' destinations and there's no evidence of it here, even though I'm informed it's become very popular and Ure says it's the best season they've ever had.

A couple of sociable beers and a cheeky short... and relax :ChrisKelly

:beerjug:
 
Well it'll be a few days off now, so I'll write later.

And don't forget to unplug your set.

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