Mr K
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If this doesn't prompt Tarka to post, nothing will.
New build- nearly from scratch on an 1100
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If this doesn't prompt Tarka to post, nothing will.
+1
Can't wait for the first road test video and presentation @ MOT
Defo wider and I'm looking forward to how you're gonna get the triangulation on the mounts as I'm scratching my head here.............
Andres
PS Another vote for your bike in red (even if it is an 1150)
just behind the telelever pivot, there's a crash frame<>engine mount point.
Sadly, you can't use that on its own because the bar would foul the telelever, so we're going up from that about 2 inches, then a bar from the place where the beak subframe mounts onto the main frame member to strengthen it, and to allow clearance for the telelever movement
Position 2 will be a proper bodge up.......two pucks of steel mounted onto the frame above the rear footrest hanger and the diagonal below it, with a 10mm bar welded across the two faces of the pucks.....the pucks will be about 2.5 inches square and very solidly bolted on.
It'll work
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Feck, even VERN'S workshop is tidier than yours 
At least we can indulge ourselves over winter offering, er, input to the build
Looks shite btw
At least we can indulge ourselves over winter offering, er, input to the build
Looks shite btw
Ok....here we go again 
1) established the width of the beasty and put in some gate pivot hinges for frame mount points and adjusters (every mount bar will have adjustment so we can tweak and tune the distances)
Front corner with detail of gate hinge onto a 90 degree flange on the angle iron...there's a good 6 inches of thread up the pipe so we have 3-4 inches of adjustment capability
Rear mounting on subframe
It became quite apparent that, (as we had thought actually) the sub frame is definitely going to need bracing to a solid mount on the other side of the engine block to make it rigid and strong enough....she here's the mount point we're using and a 10mm plate cut and bolted into place, ready for a cross-member to be welded on going across to the iron angle on the other side
Now, some cross bracing on the frame
If you recognise the tube going across, it means you know your land rovers.....NRC1824, half of a steering Drag Link Tube from RR classic
Now for the top mounting points.....always the hardest places to get solid mounting points to.
We've stood there scratching our heads for days over the issue.
Contrary to how it might appear, we have actually done a LOT of research and reading up on this, but nearly all the examples of home made chairs being fitted to 11xxs have been from abroad, which obviously means they are right handed chairs, whilst ours has to be a lefty.
There's a nice guy who goes by the name of Mr Cob on Advrider so we raided his smugmug portfolio on his home made build HERE for some inspiration.... This is what we were going to do initially, but for several reasons we adapted it a little
So instead, we did this:
Jez, you can poke your criticisms of the welding where the sun doesn't shine
I know from experience that there is a weak point on the top frame there though:
That part of the frame snapped off cleanly through on BOTH sides, after several years of admittedly overloaded off-roading in Morocco, so After a temporary bodge to get us out of the desert that involved turning Vern's pannier rails around, I ended up with a fillet in my own frame there.
So my gut feeling though is that I need to weld in another fillet inbetween the top frame rail and the one that goes down diagonally ..like this:
With an 8 or ten mill plate in there, the fekker's not going to break
That's it for this week....we need 3 or maybe four more of the gate post hinges and some rose joints, then we can sort out the front top mounting point which we already have a plan for, then start on the basket and changing the wheel and suspension for something a little better......On the hunt for a GS wheel now, complete with hub, disc and caliper 
1) established the width of the beasty and put in some gate pivot hinges for frame mount points and adjusters (every mount bar will have adjustment so we can tweak and tune the distances)
Front corner with detail of gate hinge onto a 90 degree flange on the angle iron...there's a good 6 inches of thread up the pipe so we have 3-4 inches of adjustment capability
Rear mounting on subframe
It became quite apparent that, (as we had thought actually) the sub frame is definitely going to need bracing to a solid mount on the other side of the engine block to make it rigid and strong enough....she here's the mount point we're using and a 10mm plate cut and bolted into place, ready for a cross-member to be welded on going across to the iron angle on the other side
Now, some cross bracing on the frame
If you recognise the tube going across, it means you know your land rovers.....NRC1824, half of a steering Drag Link Tube from RR classic
Now for the top mounting points.....always the hardest places to get solid mounting points to.
We've stood there scratching our heads for days over the issue.
Contrary to how it might appear, we have actually done a LOT of research and reading up on this, but nearly all the examples of home made chairs being fitted to 11xxs have been from abroad, which obviously means they are right handed chairs, whilst ours has to be a lefty.
There's a nice guy who goes by the name of Mr Cob on Advrider so we raided his smugmug portfolio on his home made build HERE for some inspiration.... This is what we were going to do initially, but for several reasons we adapted it a little
So instead, we did this:
Jez, you can poke your criticisms of the welding where the sun doesn't shine
I know from experience that there is a weak point on the top frame there though:
That part of the frame snapped off cleanly through on BOTH sides, after several years of admittedly overloaded off-roading in Morocco, so After a temporary bodge to get us out of the desert that involved turning Vern's pannier rails around, I ended up with a fillet in my own frame there.
So my gut feeling though is that I need to weld in another fillet inbetween the top frame rail and the one that goes down diagonally ..like this:
With an 8 or ten mill plate in there, the fekker's not going to break
That's it for this week....we need 3 or maybe four more of the gate post hinges and some rose joints, then we can sort out the front top mounting point which we already have a plan for, then start on the basket and changing the wheel and suspension for something a little better......On the hunt for a GS wheel now, complete with hub, disc and caliper
Bill That's an awful lot of weight swinging on that "long" bit of angle I think i'd be considering beefing it up by stitching a length of tube either at the back or better still a quadrant of plate (maybe with a Wheel cutout (if needed) and big holes for lightness / strength) across to the other side of the frame ???
Reading it again Bill a quadrant of even 6mm plate up under the exhaust would make a nice feature of the strengthener rather than a dod of tube?
Reading it again Bill a quadrant of even 6mm plate up under the exhaust would make a nice feature of the strengthener rather than a dod of tube?
If I've understood that correctly, that's what the plate on the other side is for.......the bracing will be something like this:
Or do you mean on the sidecar side?
Hey Bill,
It's great to see a hack build underway, and to see Paul's finally seen the light and got a sidecar section together However I don't want to spoil your fun, But......
The sidecar chassis you have there is a Velorex and is from the 350/250 Jawa, MZ or CZ's. As you will know these are very light bikes and they where made in a country that doesn't have too much concern for quality of materials.
The big problem, (bearing in mind the weight of the 1100 and consequently the extra forces you'll be putting through it) is that the metal tubing is not thick enough or good enough quality for the job your asking it to do.
If you really want to stick with the present chassis 'even though it's got to be easier to make one from scratch' I'd suggest you add lots of extra strength (gussets etc). Especially to the joints, plus beefing up the tubing.
I know you've mentioned looking for another wheel, but the axle will need to be upgraded too. It has a very small 15mm axle fitted which won't be strong enough (and is prone to braking) to hold the weight of the 1100. On the plus side the new version of said chair has a 20mm axle. so you might be able to get a replacement. F2 sells them.
You mentioned Mr Cob earlier. So you know of the Hacks section on the Adventure site. Do a search in there for builds for the 1100s there's quite a few and with plenty of pictures showing how they did the mountings. That place is definitely your friend where this is concerned.
As it happens I have the same chassis and chair (though the axle at least has been modified and the wheel matched to the bike) on my R80. It works quite well on the old girl, but it's bloody light, to the point of being scary. Without 20Kg of ballast it's virtually unridable solo. The Airheads are about the heaviest bike you can fit these to 'and get away with it' and then you wouldn't want to push it too much. Right hand bends put an enormous amount of weight and force into that pathetically under designed chassis and axle.
Sorry to blow holes in your pie, but thought you should know before you get too much further.
Val.
It's great to see a hack build underway, and to see Paul's finally seen the light and got a sidecar section together
However I don't want to spoil your fun, But...... The sidecar chassis you have there is a Velorex and is from the 350/250 Jawa, MZ or CZ's. As you will know these are very light bikes and they where made in a country that doesn't have too much concern for quality of materials.
The big problem, (bearing in mind the weight of the 1100 and consequently the extra forces you'll be putting through it) is that the metal tubing is not thick enough or good enough quality for the job your asking it to do.
If you really want to stick with the present chassis 'even though it's got to be easier to make one from scratch' I'd suggest you add lots of extra strength (gussets etc). Especially to the joints, plus beefing up the tubing.
I know you've mentioned looking for another wheel, but the axle will need to be upgraded too. It has a very small 15mm axle fitted which won't be strong enough (and is prone to braking) to hold the weight of the 1100. On the plus side the new version of said chair has a 20mm axle. so you might be able to get a replacement. F2 sells them.
You mentioned Mr Cob earlier. So you know of the Hacks section on the Adventure site. Do a search in there for builds for the 1100s there's quite a few and with plenty of pictures showing how they did the mountings. That place is definitely your friend where this is concerned.
As it happens I have the same chassis and chair (though the axle at least has been modified and the wheel matched to the bike) on my R80. It works quite well on the old girl, but it's bloody light, to the point of being scary. Without 20Kg of ballast it's virtually unridable solo. The Airheads are about the heaviest bike you can fit these to 'and get away with it' and then you wouldn't want to push it too much. Right hand bends put an enormous amount of weight and force into that pathetically under designed chassis and axle.
Sorry to blow holes in your pie, but thought you should know before you get too much further.
Val.
Hey Bill,
It's great to see a hack build underway, and to see Paul's finally seen the light and got a sidecar section together
The sidecar chassis you have there is a Velorex and is from the 350/250 Jawa, MZ or CZ's. As you will know these are very light bikes and they where made in a country that doesn't have too much concern for quality of materials.
The big problem, (bearing in mind the weight of the 1100 and consequently the extra forces you'll be putting through it) is that the metal tubing is not thick enough or good enough quality for the job your asking it to do.
If you really want to stick with the present chassis 'even though it's got to be easier to make one from scratch' I'd suggest you add lots of extra strength (gussets etc). Especially to the joints, plus beefing up the tubing.
I know you've mentioned looking for another wheel, but the axle will need to be upgraded too. It has a very small 15mm axle fitted which won't be strong enough (and is prone to braking) to hold the weight of the 1100. On the plus side the new version of said chair has a 20mm axle. so you might be able to get a replacement. F2 sells them.
You mentioned Mr Cob earlier. So you know of the Hacks section on the Adventure site. Do a search in there for builds for the 1100s there's quite a few and with plenty of pictures showing how they did the mountings. That place is definitely your friend where this is concerned.
As it happens I have the same chassis and chair (though the axle at least has been modified and the wheel matched to the bike) on my R80. It works quite well on the old girl, but it's bloody light, to the point of being scary. Without 20Kg of ballast it's virtually unridable solo. The Airheads are about the heaviest bike you can fit these to 'and get away with it' and then you wouldn't want to push it too much. Right hand bends put an enormous amount of weight and force into that pathetically under designed chassis and axle.
Sorry to blow holes in your pie, but thought you should know before you get too much further.
Val.
Thanks Val, all useful stuff
We are going to be reinforcing it a LOT, and we are looking for a new wheel/axle assembly...
This is primarily a load carrier for the Elefant etc, so there won't be a person on board......we are planning on putting a 2nd battery with a split charge system on board though, and the ubiquitous jerry cans as well, so as long as we strengthen the bars, that will provide a fair bit of outboard weight as well
This is Mk1, and I suspect it won't be too long before the Mk2 is built
By the way, there is already some extra strong tubing going in....3-4mm thick walled steel stuff, and we have a pile of steel standing by
B
.....This has all the makings of a new Channel 5 series
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I'm now beginning to see the reason for Type Approval laws......
Actually, here's a bit more of the plan for consideration.....
The frame from the Velorex (which we also have the tub from) is literally only going to be a subframe really......on top, there's going to be a tubular cage that the top mountings are going to fit to (probably bolted, but maybe welded, or half and half so there's a modular platform sort of arrangement going on and we can change the tub)
The tubular 'basket' is probably going to have (we estimate) at least twice the strength of the Velorex frame, and may well end up being part of the mounting system for the indespension/swing arm type setup that will bear the axle and shock etc.....it will certainly be bolstering the linkages though, in some way.
Although there is a design concept behind the whole thing, we are (as you can tell) making a lot of it up as we go along.
We spend as much, if not more time scratching our heads, offering up bits of rod and sticking lengths of string across things to see how it 'feels' strengthwise (imagining the string is x, y or z grade tubing) and generally brainstorming before we commit to picking up a power tool
I have no idea what Dribble posted by the way, but I rather suspect it wasn't anything sensible or positive...If so, I'd like to say thanks for him confirming my decision to keep him on ignore......some cnuts just aren't worth having around you
If it was sensible or positive, thanks Trippy and I apologize 
superb keep it coming bill that looks like fun , and what a lovely playground you have to do it all in 
I'm now beginning to see the reason for Type Approval laws......
Before this thing leaves the shed, believe me, it will be destructo-tested.
Two or three of us jumping up and down on the frames, putting full weight over on one side then the other, watching for bending or flexing where we don't want it etc etc.
It will be ridden carefully at first, then hard, around the farm tracks on the private land we're on and through the woods that are on the land, then again, inspected and load tested.
It may look like a cowboy job (fekk, it IS a cowboy job) but bearing in mind that if it goes wrong, we are very aware that it will be OUR lives at risk first, we are taking it a lot more seriously than a casual, 'for-fun' write up here may imply
Lighting won't be a problem
and we will be brake-testing, making sure that nothing is sharp, pointy, wobbly, loose or otherwise unfit for use.Type approval is fine, but unless somebody does the first build and testing, nothing could be 'type approved'.......
Don't worry
You want to keep an eye on the mounting point where the centre stand used to be.That isn't a very strong part of the casting on the engine,and I've seen plenty of cracked ones,including the Donkey so the chance of failure on that bit must be huge with half of Essex welded to it.
That's my only imput so far,apart from it's absolutley hideous,built completley wrong by a feckin monkey,and welded by a blindfolded blind man in the dark,and certainly doomed to failure causing one or more deaths in the surrounding area.GOOD EFFORT,CARRY ON
so the chance of failure on that bit must be huge with half of Essex welded to it.That's my only imput so far,apart from it's absolutley hideous,built completley wrong by a feckin monkey,and welded by a blindfolded blind man in the dark,and certainly doomed to failure causing one or more deaths in the surrounding area.GOOD EFFORT,CARRY ON
That's my only imput so far,apart from it's absolutley hideous,built completley wrong by a feckin monkey,and welded by a blindfolded blind man in the dark,and certainly doomed to failure causing one or more deaths in the surrounding area.GOOD EFFORT,CARRY ON
They need to come up and see you
No they don't,honest,they really don't
Some of my favorite things were built like this.Get in there and do it,don't talk about it.My all time favorite is the Cooper 500 with a Merlin engine in it. Chassis made out of old bed frames and handles like a dog on lino,but what a tool
Some of my favorite things were built like this.Get in there and do it,don't talk about it.My all time favorite is the Cooper 500 with a Merlin engine in it. Chassis made out of old bed frames and handles like a dog on lino,but what a tool
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