Ignition Timing

Paul Dilley

Guest
Advice requested on ignition timing method/s, either static or with strobe.
1150 single spark model
 
Paul Dilley said:
Advice requested on ignition timing method/s, either static or with strobe.
1150 single spark model
Welcome Paul to the mad house, here's where I put my foot right in it...if so Steptoe will help out...I thought as this is electronic ignition you had no need to adjust the ignition timing.....had a look thru my 1150GS manual and it does not appear to mention it...so come on guys right or wrong...?

Mick
 
Not really setting the timing, but setting the Hall sensor to TDC (actual timing is controlled by the Motronic, but it really needs to know when the pistons reach top dead center).

You need to lock the engine at BMW's TDC. The proper way is to use an alignment pin through the hole in the transmission on the left side (NOT the "window" on the right side). The window is really just to get you in the ballpark so you know when to push in the alignment pin (BMW part number 112 650).

You need a 9V battery, a multimeter, some sewing pins and wire.

Setting the Hall Sensor
Trace the wiring from the Hall Sensor up to the spine of the frame.

Disconnect the plug fro the Hall Sensor from the wiring harness

Insert the three sewing needles, wire set into the female plug (the plug that goes TO the Hall sensor) in the following locations.

Pin 4 --> + 9 volt battery
Pin 3 --> - 9 volt battery
Pin 5 --> positive on voltmeter

Connect negative lead of voltmeter to negative lead on 9 volt battery.

(This pin out is for the 2000 R1150GS. Please verify the pins with your factory-wiring diagram for your motorcycle).

Set the voltmeter to read mV.

Mark the current position of the Hall sensor. You can do this with a scratch awl or a marker. This is good precaution in case you want to return the Hall sensor to its original position.

Loosen the three 4 mm hex screws on the hall sensor.

Rotate the hall sensor plate back and forth while watching your voltmeter. The values should change from 0 mV to ~ 120 mV and back to 0 mV.

Set the Hall sensor to a position where the voltage just reaches the highest value.

Tighten the three 4mm hex screws.
 
Guzzler...

Thanks for putting me right on that, after reading your procedure...looks like a job for a dealer.....:D :D

Mick
 
Re: Guzzler...

Mick_rw said:
Thanks for putting me right on that, after reading your procedure...looks like a job for a dealer.....:D :D

Mick

No problem. It's really not that hard to do. But always... when in doubt, parse it out. :cool:

This is actually one of the most overlooked tuneup procedures. I have done it on my bike and I am always suprised how much it floats out of spec. Most dealers skip this, I don't know why. But it helps in keeping the bike in top running performance.
 
Re: Guzzler...

Mick_rw said:
Thanks for putting me right on that, after reading your procedure...looks like a job for a dealer.....:D :D

Mick

Mick

I have a procedure for doing that on my work pc. Its as Guzzler says but it explains it with pictures etc etc. Really very straightforward.
PM me your email address and I'll email it on to you tomorrow. (Can't remember where I found it on the net :rolleyes: )

Ferg
 
The ingintion timing is done off the hall sensors. The motornic could use a knock sensor to alter the timeing but I dont think your bike has one.

I belive the R1200GS has at least one knock sensor - then the motornic will vary the timing that would have been done using the hall sensor (and the other data stored in the motronic - like the speed advance) .

Without a knock sensor ... changing the position of hall sensor will change the timing.
 
Hey Frank, haven't talked to ya in awhile :D

I finally made the "timing light" for the hall sensor with a LED instead of the multimeter. It worked out very well, except getting the electrical plugs are a pain. Not cost effective to market.

I did mess around with different locations of the hall sensor. End result... a crappy running R1150GS. The best I position was just putting at proper TDC, just as the service manual states.

That and a good tune up with setting the rocker end play, valves, TPS, and sync'n the throttle bodies have done wonders for the smoothness and performance. Go figure :confused:
 
3 weeks of ridin will do that. Stuff typin when you got ridin to do.

On the Ks varying the timin can have good effects - but there ignition timing may not be as well implemented as on the oilheads. I'm gonna do my own on the K75 - get away from the standard jetronic to a motronic like system that I can program. Lose the air flow sensor (less weight).
Add some led monitors for fault finding. Like all of this stuff you never really know until you try.
 
Ignition/Hall sensors

Hi guys,

Sorry to drag such an old thread back up, but it seems appropriate!

I have a 1150GS here, and the hall sensors threw up a fault code (wiring failed, quite common I understand). I'm trying to get it timed up after replacement with a new unit, but not having much in the way of luck.

I've tried the fuel pump method, and at the moment I seem to be 180deg out. The question is: Will the fuel pump kick in once every 360deg? or should it kick in every 180deg? If it should kick in every 180deg then there is a problem elsewhere. I've tested the sensors by doing the screwdriver trick, and the pump will only fire up on one sensor.

Any thoughts appreciated!

Cheers,

J
 
Hi JRH,
The reason for 2 sensors is that 1 does the ignition and the other the fuel
Therefore only 1 trigger per engine revolution.

If you scribed a line around the outside of the old HES plate, then drop the new one in the same place, easy as that
 
Hi guys,

Sorry to drag such an old thread back up, but it seems appropriate!

I have a 1150GS here, and the hall sensors threw up a fault code (wiring failed, quite common I understand).

J

That's unusual as they don't normally show up as a fualt, well actually they do because the engine isn't running and every bike shows a hall sensor fault even when they're 100% working .... But you knew that didn't you ? Didn't you ? :D
 
That's unusual as they don't normally show up as a fualt, well actually they do because the engine isn't running and every bike shows a hall sensor fault even when they're 100% working .... But you knew that didn't you ? Didn't you ? :D
Sounds like old vectras that stalled, they would log crank sensor codes.
You need a sensor to check the sensor .
 


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