No power to dipped beam - 2003 1150GS Adv
- Thread starter MikeO
- Start date
hi mike
what new mounts have you got as i am looking for new mounts for my 1150
Just getting some light mounts fabricated to fit the OEM 1150 fog lamp mounts...
my bike has the same wiring. I suspect that the wiring loom has been modified to remove the link hense the reason they use the green/blue all the way to the low beam light connector. The green/blue wire is fed from the load relief relay, and is tapped off to power horn instrument lights and indicators, as well as low beam and of course high beam through the left high beam flash switch. The fact that you get high beam without low beam means that all must be ok through the switches. I suspect you may have a break at the low been connector.
You should get high beam with both high and flash selected.
i could be talking bollox but when i had a 1150 and fitted an autoswitch and 2 hid micro de lamps one would not fire,to cut a long story short i ended up doubling the supply cable diameter and it worked every time.
That would make a lot of sense as it would provide enough power to arc the HID across.....
I'm confused why Mike isn't picking up a live from the supply wire though, assuming that the one he's talking about is the one TO the ballast (if not, he's lucky not to have given himself a 30k volt Sunday surprise
)
I get High Beam on with switched High Beam and with Flash.
I have put a pin into the power cable to the low beam (to discount a problem within the connector) and there is no power.
I have just (because it is now dark) noticed that the instrument lights (Speedo & Tacho) are not lit, although the RID is. I have checked all the fuses and they are intact. I have removed the load relief relay and swapped it for the horn relay with no change in the fault.
When I switch the ignition on, there is the slightest amount of power showing on the meter (0.01 volts or so) - I think the wiring is probably good and I am missing something obvious.
The fact that the instrument illumination is also out ought to help narrow things down - but only of we had access to a twinspark wiring diagram...
Mike
That would make a lot of sense as it would provide enough power to arc the HID across.....
I'm confused why Mike isn't picking up a live from the supply wire though, assuming that the one he's talking about is the one TO the ballast (if not, he's lucky not to have given himself a 30k volt Sunday surprise
The connector I am talking about is the one that takes power to the low beam headlamp - it's the standard connector and doesn't show any signs of being messed with.
This isn't an HID issue - when current is applied to the headlamp everything fires up as it should.
Mike
The connector I am talking about is the one that takes power to the low beam headlamp - it's the standard connector and doesn't show any signs of being messed with.
This isn't an HID issue - when current is applied to the headlamp everything fires up as it should.
Mike
Can I just check I'm understanding this correctly Mike.......
The HID ballast is usually powered by the headlamp original socket.....the one that you remove from the back of the original bulb and replace with the plug TO the HID ballast*. (so you can undo the HID connection and replace the original feed onto a standard Halogen bulb and it works, just in case the HID lamp or ballast fails)
so how are you applying current to the headlamp and seeing it fire up, or have I got this wrong?
*which then, in turn, goes to the HID lamp itself, so in effect, you've just put the ballast and then the lamp itself 'inline' with the original setup
So hard to do from a distance without being able to see it and poke it with a MM
Hi Bill,
Thanks for the input - please keep it coming.
The plug that fits into here...
...(that's a main beam headlamp, but the fittings are similar) is where I am testing for current and there is none.
I applied test power by fitting a female bullet connector to the ends of two pieces of wire and running one to power and one to earth. The headlamp then powered up and the HID worked as normal.
This is not an HID issue - it's about power not getting to the headlamp. The headlamp would not work with standard incandescent bulbs, because it is not getting power.
Mike
Thanks for the input - please keep it coming.
The plug that fits into here...
...(that's a main beam headlamp, but the fittings are similar) is where I am testing for current and there is none.
I applied test power by fitting a female bullet connector to the ends of two pieces of wire and running one to power and one to earth. The headlamp then powered up and the HID worked as normal.
This is not an HID issue - it's about power not getting to the headlamp. The headlamp would not work with standard incandescent bulbs, because it is not getting power.
Mike
OkHi Bill,
Thanks for the input - please keep it coming.
The plug that fits into here...
...(that's a main beam headlamp, but the fittings are similar) is where I am testing for current and there is none.
I applied test power by fitting a female bullet connector to the ends of two pieces of wire and running one to power and one to earth. The headlamp then powered up and the HID worked as normal.
This is not an HID issue - it's about power not getting to the headlamp. The headlamp would not work with standard incandescent bulbs, because it is not getting power.
Mike
So it's back to the switch then I guess.
A quick and dirty fix would be to use the sidelight (pilot light, whatever you want to call it) feed to switch a relay to power the HID feed drekkly from the battery.
Depending on how far you want to go taking apart and possibly renewing the switch gear and any other parts of the loom not already renewed, that would work
Ok
So it's back to the switch then I guess.
A quick and dirty fix would be to use the sidelight (pilot light, whatever you want to call it) feed to switch a relay to power the HID feed drekkly from the battery.
Depending on how far you want to go taking apart and possibly renewing the switch gear and any other parts of the loom not already renewed, that would work
There's no switch.
I'd want to fix the fault, not work around it (besides the instrument lights would still be out)...
Mike
There's no switch.
I'd want to fix the fault, not work around it (besides the instrument lights would still be out)...
Mike
There's no LIGHT switch, but there's definitely an ignition switch
and you never mentioned that the instrument lights were out until post 26
So.......definitely wiring between ignition switch and the dash/sidelights, or (more likely) the ignition switch contacts themselves.
If you have the BMW repair cdrom, it's section 51.3 for how to remove ignition barrel and switches....if you don't, let me know and I'll email it to you........tbh, it's a piece of piss to do anyway
Mentioned it as soon as I noticed it...
Until I see the diagram, I won't be able to work out whether the ignition switch is a suspect. Given the the sidelight, main beam & tail light all work- and that the connecting loom is brand new - it seems an unlikely suspect.
However, I'm going to go and swap it for the old one now, just to be sure...
Mike
Until I see the diagram, I won't be able to work out whether the ignition switch is a suspect. Given the the sidelight, main beam & tail light all work- and that the connecting loom is brand new - it seems an unlikely suspect.
However, I'm going to go and swap it for the old one now, just to be sure...
Mike
On my bike, (03 GS twin spark servo) there is a taped loom (insulation tape wrapped) which runs across the brace to the instrument panel. I suspect that this could be part of the wiring loom modifications.
I suspect inside that loom is the green/blue feed from the load relay, and a solder/crimp joint with T offs of green/blue to the instrument lights and the low beam light connector.
Try tracing the loom back towards the headstock connectors and check out the green/blue wires.
My thinking is that instrument light connector now routes both the instrument lights and the low beam.
I suspect inside that loom is the green/blue feed from the load relay, and a solder/crimp joint with T offs of green/blue to the instrument lights and the low beam light connector.
Try tracing the loom back towards the headstock connectors and check out the green/blue wires.
My thinking is that instrument light connector now routes both the instrument lights and the low beam.
Just changed the ignition switch loom back to the original - no change...
Mike
Mike
OK - probably a job for decent light, so it may have to wait for the weekend I'm afraid.
Many thanks for all the input - if anyone finds a relevant wiring diagram, please drop me a PM...
Mike
Just changed the ignition switch loom back to the original - no change...
Mike
When you changed it, did you test the output pin/wire that's supposed to go live when the ign switch is turned?
We know the IGN switch is fed, or you wouldn't be able to power anything up that isn't drekkly fed by the battery....Therefore, the IGN switch has a good power supply TO it.
If it's not the loom, it's got to be the ignition switch switch
(unless both looms you have are ferkked)
When you changed it, did you test the output pin/wire that's supposed to go live when the ign switch is turned?
We know the IGN switch is fed, or you wouldn't be able to power anything up that isn't drekkly fed by the battery....Therefore, the IGN switch has a good power supply TO it.
If it's not the loom, it's got to be the ignition switch switch
(unless both looms you have are ferkked)
Sorry Bill, I'm probably being very dim, but I don't understand your question...
When the ignition is turned on, the warning lights, sidelight & tail light come on. The indicators work as advertised, as do the brake light, starter motor, high beam etc.
The only things that don't work are the instrument lights and the dipped beam.
Mike
Does the fuel pump prime?
The tank's in pieces, so I'm unable to tell without testing the connecting plug - however the kill switch is working as advertised (ie the starter won't fire with it off and it turns the RID display off)...
I'll test the tank connector tomorrow evening.
Mike
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