No power to dipped beam - 2003 1150GS Adv
- Thread starter MikeO
- Start date
Regardless of whether the dip beam circuit is fused or not, just humour me 
and change fuses 1,2 and 3 
Give'em a good wiggle about and just see
Odd shit, that new fangled electrickery is
and change fuses 1,2 and 3 Give'em a good wiggle about and just see
Odd shit, that new fangled electrickery is
I've just had a dig around and have the wiring diagram on cd, it's in pdf so should be able to email it to you if you let me have an address
Thanks Tim - you have PM
Mike
Regardless of whether the dip beam circuit is fused or not, just humour me
Give'em a good wiggle about and just see
Odd shit, that new fangled electrickery is
Checked them all, but I'll replace all fuses tomorrow evening...
Mike
Appreciate you sending it, Tim.I've just had a dig around and have the wiring diagram on cd, it's in pdf so should be able to email it to you if you let me have an address
A much more detailed (albeit monochrome) schematic than I have had up to now.
But unfortunately still for the older version, the same as my Clymer one...
Mike
I've done some checking around for you. the wiring on my bike 03 GS twinspark with abs servo brakes cannot be that different from yours.
The instrument lights are powered by the green/blue wire which runs through connector x9003 (12 way). this is the bottom right connector block on the headstock as viewed from above. It's coloured white and opaque. The green/blue runs through the connector at position 12 and connects to the grey/blue wire the other side.
Check for power at the green/blue here to see if the instrument lights are getting power. I suspect not.
The low beam wiring, together with the high beam and front indicators all come together in a loom which runs across the front brace, passing down the left hand side of the bike, passing next to the horn where the horn cable feeds into this loom. this loom then carries on down the left hand side of the bike into the main loom.
I believe that all the green/blue wires connect inside the fuse box. if you know how they make these looms it would be a good place to look. Basically they gather all the green/blue wires which run from every switch and connector and join the whole lot together with a big crimp. This crimp is inside the fusebox.
It's worth undoing the cable ties at the top end of the loom and flex the loom to see if you can get power (possible break in the cable) examine the loom to make sure it hasn't chaffed through. if it's shorted through somewhere, you may well have melted the wire, which could have taken out your instrument lights as well, depending on how the two are connected at the crimp.
You can try a continuity test between the positive low beam and ground to see what resistance you get it should be a very low resitance but not short, this is because the continuity check is also going across the instrument light bulbs. If you disconnect X9003 this will remove the instrument light circuit, then the resistance across the low beam positive and earth should be open circuit.
Now I don't know what HIDs you fitted, but if they are like mine where you use the existing connector and plastic cover, drilling a hole in the rear to pass the HID wiring through a rubber gromet, Then it is likely that you have inadvertantly shorted the positive and earth together inside the cover and fried your wiring.I was concerned enough about this, that when I did my HID's I put an insulation boot on the right angle earth connected, so both the positive and earth were insulated from one another.
If you think about it, this all started after you tried to fit your HID's, so my detuction is somewhere along the length of the green/blue wire from the low beam connector to the load relief relay is a melted piece of wire. My guess is it's in the fuse box, at or near the crimp.
I hope I'm wrong, and it's something simply, but right now I can't see it. I've checked just about everything I can using my bike as a reference, and it's the only conclusion I can come too.
Good luck with this one. I'm off to put my bike back together.
The instrument lights are powered by the green/blue wire which runs through connector x9003 (12 way). this is the bottom right connector block on the headstock as viewed from above. It's coloured white and opaque. The green/blue runs through the connector at position 12 and connects to the grey/blue wire the other side.
Check for power at the green/blue here to see if the instrument lights are getting power. I suspect not.
The low beam wiring, together with the high beam and front indicators all come together in a loom which runs across the front brace, passing down the left hand side of the bike, passing next to the horn where the horn cable feeds into this loom. this loom then carries on down the left hand side of the bike into the main loom.
I believe that all the green/blue wires connect inside the fuse box. if you know how they make these looms it would be a good place to look. Basically they gather all the green/blue wires which run from every switch and connector and join the whole lot together with a big crimp. This crimp is inside the fusebox.
It's worth undoing the cable ties at the top end of the loom and flex the loom to see if you can get power (possible break in the cable) examine the loom to make sure it hasn't chaffed through. if it's shorted through somewhere, you may well have melted the wire, which could have taken out your instrument lights as well, depending on how the two are connected at the crimp.
You can try a continuity test between the positive low beam and ground to see what resistance you get it should be a very low resitance but not short, this is because the continuity check is also going across the instrument light bulbs. If you disconnect X9003 this will remove the instrument light circuit, then the resistance across the low beam positive and earth should be open circuit.
Now I don't know what HIDs you fitted, but if they are like mine where you use the existing connector and plastic cover, drilling a hole in the rear to pass the HID wiring through a rubber gromet, Then it is likely that you have inadvertantly shorted the positive and earth together inside the cover and fried your wiring.I was concerned enough about this, that when I did my HID's I put an insulation boot on the right angle earth connected, so both the positive and earth were insulated from one another.
If you think about it, this all started after you tried to fit your HID's, so my detuction is somewhere along the length of the green/blue wire from the low beam connector to the load relief relay is a melted piece of wire. My guess is it's in the fuse box, at or near the crimp.
I hope I'm wrong, and it's something simply, but right now I can't see it. I've checked just about everything I can using my bike as a reference, and it's the only conclusion I can come too.
Good luck with this one. I'm off to put my bike back together.
Bloody Hell Ian - thanks for that...
I'm going to tackle it at the weekend when I've got some decent light and time to take a proper look - starting with double insulating the connectors in Dipped & Main Beam...
Mike
Think I might have found it. On my bike fuse 8 (ABS) also powers the low beam circuit. Pull the fuse and my low beam and instrument lights go out.
Brilliant! On my tell-tale, taped inside the fusebox lid, fuse eight is shown as 'Spare', so I haven't touched it. It's a 7.5 amp fuse, which I have just replaced with a 10 amp and the headlight & instrument lights all work as advertised!
I'll take the rear covers off both headlamps and insulate everything with self-amalgamating tape to ensure there's no danger of a short before starting to rebuild the front end.
Thanks so much for tracking this down Ian - you've saved me a huge amount of time...
We must meet up for a beer or two (on me!)...
Cheers,
Mike
The handbook lists fuse 8 (7.5amp) as unassigned, and earlier versions list it as ABS. It's not until you look inside the fuse box that you can see it. The green/blue wire with the yellow dots comes all the way from the low beam connector to the fuse. The other side of the fuse is a standard green/blue without the yellow dot tracer, which comes from the load relief relay.
I shall be making up a new fuse box card.
I shall be making up a new fuse box card.
Please post it up when you've done so - I'm sure a lot of people will find that useful...
Mike
I would if I had a standard fuse box, but I don't I have double fuse bank of 20 (2 x 10) fuse positions. So that all my accessories, intercom, Sat Nav and spots are all separately fused, and I have spare slots to allow for future development.
I've absolutly no idea whether this will work or not, as I've never uploaded before.
I use a double sided fusebox layout card which I laminate together and floats inside the lid.
I use a double sided fusebox layout card which I laminate together and floats inside the lid.
OK - I've just redrawn the diagram - you can find the PDF file here:
R1150GS Fusebox Diagram
Mike
EDIT - We were obviously both busy at the same time...
2nd EDIT - .PDF file doesn't work so well - I'll replace it with the PowerPoint original...
R1150GS Fusebox Diagram
Mike
EDIT - We were obviously both busy at the same time...
2nd EDIT - .PDF file doesn't work so well - I'll replace it with the PowerPoint original...
This is where it's likely to get confusing, because the layout for the R1150GS single spark, and the twin spark are different.
On the twin spark
Fuse 8 does only the low beam and instrument lights.
Fuse 9 does the ABS warning.
On the single spark
Fuse 8 not used
Fuse 9 not used.
At least we know the fuse wiring for the twin spark.
On the twin spark
Fuse 8 does only the low beam and instrument lights.
Fuse 9 does the ABS warning.
On the single spark
Fuse 8 not used
Fuse 9 not used.
At least we know the fuse wiring for the twin spark.
The unprotected multi crimp joining point for the instruments is in the instrument loom.
Right at the point where any water that finds it way into the open sheathed loom will sit and cause them to corrode.
Thanks for the updated diagrams
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