Fuel Guage Problem

RD.; Thanks for the useful info. Excuse my lack of auto electrical knowledge but does it matter or effect the resistance reading if the fuel tank is empty or full? Thanks said:
Doesn't make any difference. Around 90% of the fuel gauge faults concern the circuit governed by pins 2&3
 
Go to Adv rider and search fuel strip zapper. It's no risk with a full tank.


Sent from my phone with mangled spelling
 
The strip doesn't work as a resistor in the sense that a float does so fuel level won't matter much. One part of the strip is a heater and the other part is more like a thermometer. The heater heats, the fuel cools and the more fuel the more cooling over the length of the strip. Not a very scientific explanation on how it works but you should get the rough idea.
The main idea of the resistance check is you should get some and not an open circuit. It won't check the accuracy of the sensor.
For anybody with a constant warning light and you just want to get rid of it without paying for a new sensor. Have a search on the forum, there is a post about how to disconnect the strip and fiddle the reading for around half tank. Obviously you loose anything useful from the gauge but you do get rid of the distracting warning light

Wish I had read this post last week !

My GSA 2009 fuel gauge is now on the fourth strip, in 21,000 mls.

The original unit failed after 5 years, 4711 miles and I purchased a replacement fitted by the dealer (LIND). Then after 16 months a warranty replacement at 8330 miles. 6 months later another replacement, all under the two-year warranty of the original one I purchased.

The last one they fitted then also failed sometime in 2016, which by then was out of the two-year parts warranty so I ignored it, using the odometer instead as the fuel usage reference since.

A couple of months ago, not being content with simply not working it now decided to remind me it was still broken, proceeding to annoy me some more, this time by turning the low fuel reserve light on!! Previously they had always only got stuck at certain level. I tried to ignore it but couldn't so bought another new one, this time I had to once again pay for it.

I'm beginning to treat these as consumables! Buy one get two free,,,,,,,, ;)
 
Wish I had read this post last week !

My GSA 2009 fuel gauge is now on the fourth strip, in 21,000 mls.

The original unit failed after 5 years, 4711 miles and I purchased a replacement fitted by the dealer (LIND). Then after 16 months a warranty replacement at 8330 miles. 6 months later another replacement, all under the two-year warranty of the original one I purchased.

The last one they fitted then also failed sometime in 2016, which by then was out of the two-year parts warranty so I ignored it, using the odometer instead as the fuel usage reference since.

A couple of months ago, not being content with simply not working it now decided to remind me it was still broken, proceeding to annoy me some more, this time by turning the low fuel reserve light on!! Previously they had always only got stuck at certain level. I tried to ignore it but couldn't so bought another new one, this time I had to once again pay for it.

I'm beginning to treat these as consumables! Buy one get two free,,,,,,,, ;)

I went one better. I bought one and got 3 free in a two year period. The last one fitted has now been in for 18 months. I'll see if it's still working in the spring.
 
Would the failures have anything to do with bikes being left for long periods with little or no fuel in the tank ???

I'm on my second 2007 GSA with around 70,000kms between them over a period of 4 years......I have had no fuel strip trouble (I'm probably going to regret this)
 
That was my pet theory. Absolutely no proof to back it up but always topped the tank up after riding ( 09 GS)
Strip lasted 60 K miles but failed after I sold the bike.!!
 
Would the failures have anything to do with bikes being left for long periods with little or no fuel in the tank ???

I'm on my second 2007 GSA with around 70,000kms between them over a period of 4 years......I have had no fuel strip trouble (I'm probably going to regret this)

A friend has also suggested this might be one of the reasons it gets 'stuck', I wll give it try during this year and see if it makes a difference. I am slightly scheptical thou as when the bike is sat in the garage the fuel strip and ecu are not powered, unless the ecu forgets the calibration when sitting for a long period and resets at the level it finds in the tank when turned back on ?
 
A friend has also suggested this might be one of the reasons it gets 'stuck', I wll give it try during this year and see if it makes a difference. I am slightly scheptical thou as when the bike is sat in the garage the fuel strip and ecu are not powered, unless the ecu forgets the calibration when sitting for a long period and resets at the level it finds in the tank when turned back on ?
I was thinking that it may dry out and that may affect it somehow??

Sent from a U11
 
I felt that if the tank was left low on fuel the strip dried out and on switching on the ignition the heater element damaged the carbon track.
Again just my thought, no proof.
 
I would not have thought it would be that because before fitting a new strip it is recalibrated, dry, outside the tank.:nenau
 
I know that a new strip has to be calibrated dry and an old strip has to be left to dry out for a few days before calibrating but perhaps the new strip is more pliable and how many have ever re-calibrated an old strip by this method.
I just thought that a strip would expand a lot quicker when dry than one submerged in fuel so more likely to fracture the carbon track.
As I said this is only my thoughts, No facts or data to back them up.
 
The tracks are copper printed to a mylar strip. One one side a thick heater track warms the strip. A thin sensing track on the other side changes resistance due to temperature and the ECU infers fuel level from that.

The heater pulses on/off every 30 seconds. The continual expansion and contraction cracks the thin copper sensor track and the fuel strip stops working. The heater tracks are usually fine.

BMW could have sensed the heater current to infer the fuel level but that would have been too easy.
 


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