5 days in Morocco, great roads, great food and 1 epic 12 hour off road ride from hell

This feels like I'm at the cinema but someone's throwing popcorn at the screen - guys, you can't change the ending by making negative comments!
If you're not happy with the way the story is going, feel free to leave & make comments elsewhere but in the meantime, please let me enjoy the film
thank you :)
 
Right intermission over...:D

As the video shows the river crossings went well with no real dramas. The exit from the river and particularly the climb up the bank on the other side proved more challenging but we all made it. From there it was pretty much plain sailing down to Beni Ahmed, the roads were great but it was extremely hot so regular stops were essential...

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We soon got to the Al Wahda reservoir (i think) and the place was amazing. Absolutely incredible and offered plenty of opportunity for photos...

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From here we headed for Fez and after a while arrived into the relatively chaotic environment, given the roads we been used to riding.


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Eventually we found the Sofia Hotel in the city centre, slightly more expensive than what we'd been used to but still reasonable in the grand scheme of things. The guys even opened up the service entrance for us and let us leave the bikes in the service corridor :D

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That night we explored the delights Fez had to offer. We wanted to have a look at the old Medina but were informed by the Hotel that it was closed!!!
 
We'll I for one will be taking a good look at my Tesco panniers just to see if I have all the gear but no idea as a new waitrose is opening soon.
Great pics and write up all have to start somewhere
 
The following morning we set off early towards the west coast and Larache. It was another beautiful day and again we rode on some stunning roads.

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The obligatory selfie!!!

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Saw some interesting sights on the side of the roads..

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We stopped in a roadside cafe hoping to get some lunch but could only get a drink. Before we left the local kids asked mark to show off his wheelie skills...

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So he did...

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Eventually arriving on the outskirts of Larache we encountered our first mechanical issue. Marks Tenere got stuck in 4th gear. We pulled over in the shade to cool down and investigate the issue. We were only around 4km from the hotel so worse case scenario we could have made it there but decided to let the bikes cool down instead...

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That's all for now final instalment over the weekend:thumb2
 
I'm continuing to enjoy the report Chris.....I'll def go back cos it's a fabulous country :D

The people are fantastic & always take an interest; when Jacko's 1150 :green gri broke down outside a garden centre, the lads came rushing out to see if they could help. After a brief conversation, they came back with a length of rope so I could tow Jacko's bike to the hotel 4km's away.....:clap
 
Cheers Keith:thumb2

Fortunately, we didn't have to resort to towing Marks bike anywhere as after 20 minutes in the shade it popped out of 4th gear and was fine for the rest of the trip. Only thing I can put it down to is slight overheating, other than that there was no reason for the issue....

So off we went in to downtown Larache, we'd been recommended a hotel in the centre of the city near the square called the Hotel Espagnol. We got ourselves booked in and went to arrange safe overnight accommodation for the bikes. Now, the hotel doesn't have any secure parking and i wasn't happy with leaving them outside in the road. It may have just been paranoia but hey were drawing a lot of attention and this city didn't have the same "feel" about it as the others we'd been in. We were devised of a garage just down the road where we could leave them overnight and went off to enquire...

While we were doing this Mark decided that due to his gearbox issue he would change his oil and filter. Just next to the hotel was a Yamaha garage (loose term used here!!) with boats and jet skis in so we went to talk to them about using their facilities to carry out the oil change and to see if they had a filter. The lads were all very helpful and had no issue with helping out, we even negotiated the option of leaving all the bikes in their workshop overnight for the same price the garage would charge. They were ok with that but had to wait for the "boss" to arrive and agree on a price....

After about an hour of waiting he finally turned up, he was also happy to help but wanted 300D just for the oil change:eek:. Mark tried to explain that he would supply the oil, and all he wanted was a space to do the job but he bossman wouldn't budge. So we did... Mark headed off to do the oil change somewhere else and we took the rest of the bikes to the garage..

The big fella outside the hotel...

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Home for the bikes overnight..

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Mark working to get his bash plate back on after changing the oil. Diligently supervised by Hairless Hog:D

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The night was uneventful as we headed down to the seafront for pizza and non alcoholic beer. Larache seemed to come alive in the evening. Full of young kids who all seemed to congregate on the seafront to watch the sunset. There was lots of music and noise everywhere, cars screaming around, horns blasting and music blaring. It really reminded me of the wild west movies i watched as a kid.

The following morning we were up early, had a lovely breakfast from the local bakery followed by coffee across the road. Then it was off to get the bikes out of the garage... We needn't have worried about the bikes in the garage as it took around 30 minutes to move all the other vehicles out before we could even get to them!!!

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So it was now time to say goodbye to Larache and head north along the west coast to Tanger med for the crossing back to EU soil. The ride from Larache was lovely, fantastic roads again with great scenery and as we'd set off early the temperature was cool but with the warmth of the morning sun it was perfect for riding.

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The journey only took an hour or so and we soon found ourselves in the city of Tanger Med. Previously we'd crossed from Algeciras to Ceuta and this felt very different. More organised, efficient and helpful. We only arrived 10 mins before the fast cat was due to leave but were processed quickly and before we new it we were back on a boat having the bikes tied down...

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Adrian (Hairless Hog) and Ian (Beaker) recounting memories of the challenges we'd faced over the past 5 days.....

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Mark, already planning for our return sometime in the future.....:D

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Goodbye Morocco.....

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Hello Espagnol...

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The plan from here was simple, Ian's Dad has a place in Estapona so we were due to stay there for the night. In a few hours we'd all be sat round a pool, sipping cold beers recounting the previous 5 days adventure and we were all looking forward to it. After an hour or so of riding we decided to pull over for a mac attack. We were all hungry and it would give Ian a chance to speak to his Dad and confirm arrangements.....

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So, while we were queuing for our burgers (i was with Ian) he called his Dad to make arrangements for our overnight stay. At this point we were only around 30 minutes from his place so we pretty close. While he was on the phone I heard Ian respond to his Dad by saying "Dad, we're already here is there another way of getting in?"....

It transpired that Ian's Dad had arranged his flight for that evening and would not be expecting wheels up until around 22:30 that night. What we hadn't taken into account was that we had originally planned to be crossing from Morocco into Spain on the Monday so effectively we were 24 hours earlier than expected:blast.....

Time to re-think our plan.......
 
Nicely done Chris......continued great pics, and these 'mini incidents' etc make the adventure all the more interesting......:D
 
A very enjoyable read.:thumb Am I the only one that can't see the videos?:comfort:blast
 
It was around this time when i noticed a kind of creaking sound coming from the back end of the bike. Initially i thought it was the lower suspension mount creaking due to all the dust and crap we'd been riding in. A can of WD40 (sort of!!) was purchased and liberally sprayed all around the lower mounting point. It helped a bit but the sound didn't go away. Further investigation highlighted that it was more likely coming from the rear pivot bearings housed within the swing arm at the diff end. Now i'm no Motoscot/Steptoe but i must admit to being somewhat concerned about this. However, now we were back in the EU my concerns were lessened.
After going through a toll we all pulled over while Ian made a final call to his Dad to see if we would be able to get access to his place. I decided to check the diff oil and by the time i'd finished Ian advised that we'd have to bin the idea of a night in Estapona with a cold beer next to the pool and juicy steaks in the evening.....:blast

We all decided that we'd press on North and Ian advised us of a place he used to go as a kid which was some 40-50 Kms north of Malaga called El Chorro. A beautiful forested area surrounding a lake where we could camp for the evening... Perfect!!!!

I'd been hauling 2 panniers worth of Camping gear around Morocco and had not actually used any of it as yet so I was looking forward to a night under the stars..

We set off due north and within no time we were off the highway and into the lovely mountain roads of southern Spain...

The Big fella kickin back ala HOG style.....:D

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Beaker looking good...

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and Mark who is not a big chap but somehow manages to make a Tenere look small!!!

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We arrived at El Chorro and it was fantastic, highly recommended if your ever looking for a decent campsite in southern spain. The lake was gorgeous and the pictures below have not been doctored - it really was that colour....

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Mark decided that his kit needed a wash after just over a week of riding in high 30 temps. He emptied all his pockets and walked straight in with a bar of soap.......:D

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The bikes were parked just a few meters away from where we'd be pitching the tents so no worries about security...

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Time to pitch the new tent....

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I'd decided to go back to a Phad x2 because of the packed size. My G4 Kyham Igloo is a great tent and has served me very well over the years and is great if i'm with Erika and the dog but it's just too big for single camping. The Phad x2 fits in the bottom of the panniers and is perfect if it's just me. Very happy with it...

As you can see i'd pitched within a stones throw of the lake.....

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It wasn't long before the kit was off and i was in for a dip... Even though it was still very warm i'll never get used to the "scrotal kiss" moment of walking into cool water.....:eek:

Once the tent was up I found I had a visitor.....

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Don't know what it was but it flew and looked prehistoric.....

We then drank beer and the jollity began...:D

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Before a little route planning for the following days....

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This was going to be our last evening together as a four, Mark and Ian had planned to ride back to Santander and catch the ferry back to Plymouth. Adrian and I planned to ride to Calais and get the Train. It was Sunday night and I was booked on the 18:00 train on Friday, Ian and Mark were booked on the Wed evening Boat from Santander.....

We had a great last evening together, pizza and beer were the order of the evening listening to music of our youth on our phones. Some great tunes were heard during the evening and we all agreed on the best ever tune for driving/riding - She Sells Sanctuary by The Cult.....

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Once we got back to the tents, the Jack Daniels and Hennessy came out and more bollox talking ensued. It was around this time we became aware of some rather odd noises coming from across the lake..... We all shut up and the noises became clearer, just across the lake from us someone was getting a damn good rodgering!!!! Clearly an unfamiliar sound to us so we listened for a while:D. It must have gone on for around 10 minutes and she was loving it.... When it was all over we all gave a rapturous round of applause for a good performance.....:green gri

The morning came and i was surprised to be woken by what sounded like appalling weather outside the tent. It was around 05:00 and the wind noise was incredible, i was expecting to crawl out into carnage but alas it was only Adrians snoring from up the hill....:D
Breakfast consisted of some cheese and ham with bread sticks and a cup of tea. Tents were packed away, showers had and it was time to bid farewell to Mark and Ian before heading north..

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The road out of the campsite took us round the lake and the view across the lake was lovely as seen in the video below....

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We ended up on the road around 08:30ish and had a full day of riding ahead of us. We wanted to get through Spain and to the base of the Pyrenees by Tuesday evening in order to give us a full 3 days riding through France without using any toll roads or motorways. By around 1700 that evening i'd had it, I was loosing focus, struggling to stay awake and we new we were beat so it was time to find a place to stay. We ended up in a town called Motilla del Palancar in the province of Cuenca so we'd made good progress. The first hotel we came to was the Hotel Setos, they had availability and soon we were booked in for the evening....

http://<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/77911971@N06/14016654918" title="IMG_4088 by Chris Needham, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2917/14016654918_32892903b0_o.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="IMG_4088"></a>

http://www.hotelsetos.net

That evening consisted of beer, kebabs a walk throughout the town and more epic snoring from the big fella!!!!!

The following morning we set off early (around 07:00) and there was a distinct change in temperature. The previous week we'd been riding with only base layers on, vents open and we were still too hot. Now i'd been riding for around 20 minutes when I had to pull over to add the following: addition long sleeved base layer, micro fleece and inner lining to jacket!!! Granted it was earlier than we'd usually set off but i didn't expect it to be that cold!! However, once back on the bikes the roads we were on made up for it. They were fantastic, long winding corners that shortened up into subtle hairpins one after the other. The only down side was that we were both on TKCs but I was still very surprised at how good they were on tarmac.....:D

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A few hours later and we arrived in the Spanish city of Teruel (just south of Zaragoza) and it was time to stop for breakfast. We found this little cafe which appeared to be very popular with the locals so helmets off, we headed in... The food was great, service fantastic and the atmosphere couldn't have been better. It was one of those places I could have stayed all day in and just watched.....

http://<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/77911971@N06/14200823112" title="IMG_4090 by Chris Needham, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5506/14200823112_d275c719a4_o.jpg" width="768" height="1024" alt="IMG_4090"></a>

http://<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/77911971@N06/14260893301" title="IMG_4089 by Chris Needham, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3758/14260893301_e62927b56e_o.jpg" width="768" height="1024" alt="IMG_4089"></a>


So, bellys full and warm from hot coffee we got back on the bikes with a view of getting to and crossing the Pyrenees today. We wanted to be in Pau for the evening and, given the mileage we'd been covering, were on target for achieving it...
 
We set off North towards Huesca and somewhere after Zaragoza the wind really started to pick up. It was a real battle to keep the bike on line without getting blown across the lane. Once in Huesca we stopped for coffee before proceeding into the foothills of the Pyrenees...

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It's been a long time since i've ridden in snow covered mountains. The Pyrenees/Alps are different to the Riff mountains, they have a different feel about them. Bigger with more jagged cliff tops that somehow give a more foreboding feel about them. Couple this with weather that changes within a few minutes and you're in for an interesting ride.....

http://

The closer we got to the mountains proper the more the weather changed for the worse. In 2 days we'd gone from riding in +30 degrees with vents open and sunglasses on to temperatures below 10 degrees with multi layers on and waterproof linings attached.

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The higher we climbed the colder we got until we had snow around us:eek:...

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http://

Still had stunning views from the top.....
 
God knows how i missed this - great write up Chris - catch up soon :beerjug:
 
:D Great ride report, put a smile on my face:D

Sorry.Just one question. Do helmet cam video's p anyone else off?
There's some really good shots on many head cam video's but all the jiggling about and turning just make me feel like :barf
 
Great report and photos... the "go do one" tradition is alive and well !!!
 
As we crossed over into the French side of the Pyrenees the weather got worse, the temperature remained cold but with the added effect of rain it wasn't pleasant.

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We arrived in Pau a few hours later. The weather had dried up and the wind had dropped. Not sure what was happening or planned to happen but the town had been transferred int a race track. Barriers everywhere, road closures, diversions and grandstands were up so finding our way to the hotel was a bit of a nightmare. Eventually we found ourselves outside the Quality Hotel and booked ourselves in for the night. It was the most expensive hotel of the trip and afforded us a little bit of luxury. I wallowed in a bath for a bit while Adrian arranged a massage for us both (not together and no happy ending!!!). Both fully relaxed we headed out into the town for a meal of steak and chips with a nice bottle of red to wash it down...

http://<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/77911971@N06/14268887195" title="IMG_4105 by Chris Needham, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2906/14268887195_aedd5bffda_o.jpg" width="768" height="1024" alt="IMG_4105"></a>

We saw this little beauty in the car park!!

http://<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/77911971@N06/14082333607" title="IMG_4106 by Chris Needham, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2907/14082333607_8868106e16_o.jpg" width="1024" height="768" alt="IMG_4106"></a>

http://<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/77911971@N06/14245773176" title="IMG_4107 by Chris Needham, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3793/14245773176_49f06414d7_o.jpg" width="768" height="1024" alt="IMG_4107"></a>
 


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