Balancing throttle bodies - changing throttle cable splitter

Michael R1150GS Adventure

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BLoody heavy throttle - just ordered a new splitter - any simple ways to balance the bodies again after I've took off the cables?

ive searched and not found

cheers anyone :beerjug:
 
I would replace the cables as well, the balance should not be disturbed as long as you don't alter the air bleed screws.
 
is that right? when i remove the knurled casings from the actuator cams on the bodies all will go back?
not replacing cables until i've had a good looky tonight - motorworks have been incredibly helpful (thanks)
 
I would replace the cables as well, the balance should not be disturbed as long as you don't alter the air bleed screws.

Umm - No... :rolleyes:

The Big Brass Screws only adjust the idle balance - the dynamic balance is achieved by adjusting the cables...
 
If you are stuck, a way to get the butterflies sync'd is:


Engine off.
Need to have a few mm of free play at the cables when twistgrip is at rest position.
Place chin on tank with eyes to front, one ear each side.
Open throttle and close it quickly but not too quickly.
Listen for click of the butterflies hitting stops.
You adjust the cables to get them clicking simultaneously.
If one is clicking early, screw out the adjuster.
Adjusting the brass airscrews is best done with manometer or twinmax, but if not choice, then set both to 1.25 turns from seated.
Worth taking the screws out and cleaning them, the seats threads and o-rings, grease lightly, refit and seat gently. Then back out the said 1.25 turns.
 
BLoody heavy throttle - just ordered a new splitter - any simple ways to balance the bodies again after I've took off the cables?

ive searched and not found

cheers anyone :beerjug:

TBH I don't think it will be the splitter making it heavy. There is nothing in there except a pulley and plastic cam. The cables will be the problem, either frayed or kinked.

Follow the vids and its an easy job - you have to take quite a few things off but as long as you take care you'll be fine. There are a few screws that you might not see - like the top AND bottom one holding the left grip on, and some other little nuances, but it only takes an hour to change the lot. Balancing after should only mean syncing the throttles which is pretty straight forward too. Just leave EVERY other throttle adjustment alone:)
 
cheers monkey boy - have started stripping things down and it seems so far to be the bloody twist grip worn! slack and lots of grinding/friction noise coming from it - time for silicone spray for first course...
 
cheers monkey boy - have started stripping things down and it seems so far to be the bloody twist grip worn! slack and lots of grinding/friction noise coming from it - time for silicone spray for first course...

Do check the throttle cable cassette (splitter box). Despite what's been said they can cause a stiff or sticking throttle.
Strange but true I've had a few where the pulley had seized onto it's spigot and the spigot was actually turning in the cassette......
 
Do check the throttle cable cassette (splitter box). Despite what's been said they can cause a stiff or sticking throttle.
Strange but true I've had a few where the pulley had seized onto it's spigot and the spigot was actually turning in the cassette......

cheers Steptoe - ive got the new splitter box right here now just been delivered. Throttle lube first then splitter case out for a look see.
Fingers crossed - it was a right bastard in last weekend's race - blisters and arm fooked after 4 hours on day 2.
 
Lol! At least it's sorted. Now.

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