Paralever Bearing Upgrade
- Thread starter Cook1e
- Start date
I'm trying to understand how they are easier than the standard needle rollers, are they just a bush with a grease nipple to keep them slippery?
We all want a better solution, but it would be nice to have a better explanation.
I guess a bush would mean torque is less critical.
We all want a better solution, but it would be nice to have a better explanation.
I guess a bush would mean torque is less critical.
Bronze bushes for them have been around for years and if I remember right the consensus was that bearings were better for longevity, but being able to easily grease them makes them a tempting alternative imo.
as i understand it, needle roller bearings are not really ideal for tiny back and forth rotation use as happens in swing arms.
i seem to remember reading about some issues after replacing these bearings with bushes too though.
i seem to remember reading about some issues after replacing these bearings with bushes too though.
So looking at the pictures, the friction surface is now between the new pivot pins and the bronze bearing surface. Is that how you guys see it? So that is a smaller surface area is it not? with a greater loading factor.
But I understand the concept. Lengthy trials are what is needed.
Or.
A decent write up and more detailed pictures.
I might revisit this in 20k miles.
Ian
But I understand the concept. Lengthy trials are what is needed.
Or.
A decent write up and more detailed pictures.
I might revisit this in 20k miles.
Ian
Cook1e
Registered user
I think technical questions should be directed to Motorworks - friendly helpful guys in my experience 
How can it be loading onto a smaller surface area, even needle bearings have tiny contact points?
In time it's not just the bearings that wear though, the pivot pins sufferer too if not lightly greased.
Welshman
Registered user
Looks like an upgrade of the "Rubber Chicken Racing" bushes..???
You are right comparing standard bearings to these. I was thinking about those 'rubber chicken' bearings, which are of a similar design, though have a larger bearing surface but less lubrication. Seams they have also been failing.
Should have made myself clearer. Sorry
You are right comparing standard bearings to these. I was thinking about those 'rubber chicken' bearings, which are of a similar design, though have a larger bearing surface but less lubrication. Seams they have also been failing.
Should have made myself clearer. Sorry
Ah see what you mean now
I fitted a set last week to a punters bike.Well made and do the job and you can bang them full of grease whenever you want to.Miles better than needle bearings.
That's all you need to know isn't it?
Right,I'm off again and leave you lot to discuss utter bollox without having even seen them.
That's all you need to know isn't it?
Right,I'm off again and leave you lot to discuss utter bollox without having even seen them.
I fitted a set last week to a punters bike.Well made and do the job and you can bang them full of grease whenever you want to.Miles better than needle bearings.
That's all you need to know isn't it?
Right,I'm off again and leave you lot to discuss utter bollox without having even seen them.
Do you have to torque em up like the needle rollers Vern?
I'm guessing it's less critical.
......
Right,I'm off again and leave you lot to discuss utter bollox without having even seen them.
Isn't that what we are all here for?
And I have ordered a set as my bearings are starting to look a bit tired. And if you drop the these bushes there aren't wee bearings to fill up with whatever was on the ground at the time.
Adrian
Just bought a set for my newest 11GS and even with a bit of trade discount BMW still charge nearly £60+vat... It's almost laughable that all those years ago BM managed to patent this pissy sized bearing... Normally sourced they would be 1/4 of that at the most...
they didn't patent it. they just used a non standard, or commonly used size. they are available from other sources, but IME at more than double the bmw price.
Using appropriate grease makes a huge difference.
Thixo grease is good for applications like this.
Using Thixo on helicopter rotor hubs and it is doing a great job
Thixo grease is good for applications like this.
Using Thixo on helicopter rotor hubs and it is doing a great job
And when was the last time you planted your helicopter upside down in 3ft of mud........
Aha...
Never let the truth get in the way of a good forum story... I must have read it on page 45 of a thread on ADV Rider...Bendy toy
Registered user
Needle rollers and taper rollers are used on bike suspension because back in the 1970s they were cheaper for the factory than reamed in-line bronze bushes.
They have remained because bike makers love to maintain their technical traditions. However while bronze is costly, modern plain bearing bushes like DU are cheap, precise and are far better for oscillating movement than any rolling element bearing. They can easily be lubed with a grease point. Shock horror a grease gun nipple is painful for the traditionalists.
These days we can go even better with Igus polymer bushes plain or spherical that never need grease and are silly cheap. They are used on farm machinery so must be tough but plastic(?) oh dear no.
The snag for us is that rolling element bearings are not costly in bulk and need a precision hole on only one side with an ordinary tolerance bolt or pin the through the middle. So bike makers use them and we pick up the tab soon after the warranty runs out.
They have remained because bike makers love to maintain their technical traditions. However while bronze is costly, modern plain bearing bushes like DU are cheap, precise and are far better for oscillating movement than any rolling element bearing. They can easily be lubed with a grease point. Shock horror a grease gun nipple is painful for the traditionalists.
These days we can go even better with Igus polymer bushes plain or spherical that never need grease and are silly cheap. They are used on farm machinery so must be tough but plastic(?) oh dear no.
The snag for us is that rolling element bearings are not costly in bulk and need a precision hole on only one side with an ordinary tolerance bolt or pin the through the middle. So bike makers use them and we pick up the tab soon after the warranty runs out.
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