Paralever Bearing Upgrade

Bendy toy · Sep 19, 2014

We moan about BMW but Yamaha are even sillier. Their rear suspension rocking knuckle is used on many bike models from Diversions to Fasers. It has four needle rollers, three precision ground hollow pins and at least one special bolt. Replacement parts cost a fortune. Even worse two of the roller outer sleeves are virtually impossible to extract because of a centre stop of larger diameter.
These bearings can be shot in 20K miles. Grease every service is a hassle but does very little because it quickly gets rubbed out and the rollers get a flat on one side.
It would be cheaper for Yamaha to use DU or polymer bushes but clearly they love their needle roller traditions.

ahebron · Oct 8, 2014

But whatever you do not put too much grease in as it will hydraulic and blow the arse off the cup.

Don't ask me how I found that bit of info out&#55357;&#56874;

Adrian

ebbo · Oct 12, 2014

M

ahebron said:
But whatever you do not put too much grease in as it will hydraulic and blow the arse off the cup.

Don't ask me how I found that bit of info out��

Adrian

Didn't it say in the instructions, use grease gun, but very gently

ahebron · Oct 13, 2014

ebbo said:
MDidn't it say in the instructions, use grease gun, but very gently

Lets not start quoting instructions after the matter

Adrian

ebbo · Oct 13, 2014

ahebron said:
Lets not start quoting instructions after the matter

Adrian

Tell em you sneezed just as you were oh-so gently squeezeing the lever

dubster · Oct 17, 2017

Sorry to drag up an old thread... but does anyone remember the torque settings for the upgrade kit?

Tried digging out the instructions that came with it to no avail :blast

Ian J Hartley · Oct 17, 2017

dubster said:
Sorry to drag up an old thread... but does anyone remember the torque settings for the upgrade kit?

Tried digging out the instructions that came with it to no avail

They are not tapered roller bearings so do not need torquing.

All you have to do is follow the normal procedure for securing the final drive to the swinging arm.

Tighten the right side securing pin to 160NM. (Or what ever value you fancy)

Then tighten left side pin iin by hand moving the final drive up and down until resistance is felt. That should be sufficient. There should be no play in the final drive and it should fall freely.

Then tighten the left side lock nut to 160NM (or what ever value you fancy) whilst ensuring the inner pin does not move.

Once done ensure the final drive has no play and can move freely up and down.

Don't forget to Grease the bearings.

:nenau

mspenz · Oct 17, 2017

I think the pivot had to be turned fully in then backed out one quarter turn...or as above !

Slipperyeel · Oct 17, 2017

mspenz said:
I think the pivot had to be turned fully in then backed out one quarter turn...or as above !

I brought it back 1/8 turn. It is still a rock solid, free of any play, 2 years later :thumb2

mspenz · Oct 17, 2017

Slipperyeel said:
I brought it back 1/8 turn. It is still a rock solid, free of any play, 2 years later

That's the one :thumb2

Unfortunately my set were returned after only 6k miles as they were badly scoured although had no free play, Motorworks blamed a bad batch but replaced them using OE with no questions.
I'm thinking of fitting a set to my GS1100 now as they can't all be bad.

dubster · Oct 18, 2017

Ian J Hartley said:
They are not tapered roller bearings so do not need torquing.

All you have to do is follow the normal procedure for securing the final drive to the swinging arm.

Tighten the right side securing pin to 160NM. (Or what ever value you fancy)

Then tighten left side pin iin by hand moving the final drive up and down until resistance is felt. That should be sufficient. There should be no play in the final drive and it should fall freely.

Then tighten the left side lock nut to 160NM (or what ever value you fancy) whilst ensuring the inner pin does not move.

Once done ensure the final drive has no play and can move freely up and down.

Don't forget to Grease the bearings.

mspenz said:
I think the pivot had to be turned fully in then backed out one quarter turn...or as above !

Slipperyeel said:
I brought it back 1/8 turn. It is still a rock solid, free of any play, 2 years later

Thank you gents, just what I was after :thumb2

It was the 1/8 turn backwards that had slipped my mind... thankfully it's now here for future reference the next time I forget :blast

ahebron · Oct 18, 2017

dubster said:
Thank you gents, just what I was after

It was the 1/8 turn backwards that had slipped my mind... thankfully it's now here for future reference the next time I forget

And whatever you do dont over grease it, DAMHIK

Adrian

GSBruce · Oct 19, 2017

Here's another option:

http://nushings.com

discussed here:

http://advrider.com/index.php?threa...ushing-replacements-nylager-nushings.1149024/

Paralever Bearing Upgrade

Bendy toy

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ahebron

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ebbo

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ahebron

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ebbo

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dubster

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Ian J Hartley

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mspenz

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Slipperyeel

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mspenz

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