r1150rt abs removal

sid james

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i have read the sticky on 1150gs removal,potentially looking at a r1150rt to buy with failed abs,is the servo/abs removal on 1150rt the same please.
 
Have look at Chris Harris video on YouTube on r1150rt abs removal
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=7xZMewBazMI

I wouldn't take any notice of that video. It's a dogs dinner unprofessional way to remove the servo.

There is no need to cut any of the wiring loom. Just undo the small servo ecu at the end of the servo/abs modulator (4 screws) and plug it back into the loom :D That way it can be returned to servo/abs at any time in the future. Plus you're left with a lot neater wiring without the chance of any future grief from the electrics.
 
I wouldn't take any notice of that video. It's a dogs dinner unprofessional way to remove the servo.

There is no need to cut any of the wiring loom. Just undo the small servo ecu at the end of the servo/abs modulator (4 screws) and plug it back into the loom :D That way it can be returned to servo/abs at any time in the future. Plus you're left with a lot neater wiring without the chance of any future grief from the electrics.

Hi Steptoe
That looks a much better way of doing things - my question is how do you re-route etc the actual brake lines (has anyone done a guide for this ?)
Many thanks :thumb2
Golfy
 
Hi Steptoe
That looks a much better way of doing things - my question is how do you re-route etc the actual brake lines (has anyone done a guide for this ?)
Many thanks :thumb2
Golfy

Its simple!

up at the right hand side of the headstock there is a twin tube arrangement where the brake pipes "meet"

the steel pipes from the rear of this are redundant

and you just need to connect the two front pipes or get a small brake pipe made to go between both rear bits

You do the same sort of thing at the back you just connect the master cylinder to the calliper with an unbroken length of brake pipe / flexible hose

Bleed the brakes and Before MOT remove the front sensor and the inner disc it no longer Looks Like an ABS bike
 
Its simple!

up at the right hand side of the headstock there is a twin tube arrangement where the brake pipes "meet"

the steel pipes from the rear of this are redundant

and you just need to connect the two front pipes or get a small brake pipe made to go between both rear bits

You do the same sort of thing at the back you just connect the master cylinder to the calliper with an unbroken length of brake pipe / flexible hose

Bleed the brakes and Before MOT remove the front sensor and the inner disc it no longer Looks Like an ABS bike

Much appreciated, will give this a go when I take out the ABS servo :clap. It also looks like Motoworks do a bit that covers joining the front pipes.
Presumably this also means that bleeding the system will be a whole lot easier as well
Many thanks]:beerjug:
Golfy
 
Much appreciated, will give this a go when I take out the ABS servo :clap. It also looks like Motoworks do a bit that covers joining the front pipes.
Presumably this also means that bleeding the system will be a whole lot easier as well
Many thanks]:beerjug:
Golfy
I've recently done this on my GS1150 but I also upgraded the Brake Lines to Braided whilst I had everything apart.
I didn't use anything from MotoWorks for the Conversion though, didn't need anything.
They do supply a Kit of sorts but it includes new Brake Light Switches at £35 a pop and you don't need them if you use Steptoe's Method.
 
I've recently done this on my GS1150 but I also upgraded the Brake Lines to Braided whilst I had everything apart.
I didn't use anything from MotoWorks for the Conversion though, didn't need anything.
They do supply a Kit of sorts but it includes new Brake Light Switches at £35 a pop and you don't need them if you use Steptoe's Method.
Hi all
It appears after a late night going through the forum that my R1150RT 2004 already has braided brake lines, so should not need upgrading. My earlier post was not really about the re-routing as such, rather I was unsure about the brake line connections. I think now is the time however to just strip off the Tupperware, tank etc and get on with it. Should I get stuck, no doubt photo's will appear !
Once again thanks to everyone for helping, this is a superb community !
Cheers
Golfy
 
Sorry to draw up an old thread, but is it the same system and method on the 1200?
 
Basically Yes

Remove the Servo and excess brake pipes (usually the green coated metal preformed ones!!)

Remove Servo ECU from servo assembly

Seal ECU from the weather and refit it into the loom and secure it so it cant get battered about

Fit/ Join brake master cylinders and their respective brake hoses i.e. front to front and rear to rear and bleed air out

On RT etc there is a bulb you can remove to kill the ABS lights

On the GS you remove the instrument panel front and tape / paint over the LED

You can remove the front ABS ring and sensor if you want Depending on how astute your MOT tester is

Some photos here Sorry they are crap it was an off the cuff idea to have some photos to help those that have not done this mod before

Photos 1

Photos 2

N.B. If you drop brake fluid on the bike frame engine wheels etc lash a bucket of hot soapy water over it and rinse well with the hose or a few more buckets of fresh clean water
 


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