Drive shaft check

Matt. Thanks again for confirmation. It's good to get some feedback!

Below is a little pictorial of the disassembly and what i found. To be honest, i damned glad i got onto this as there seems to more than one thing that needs attention...

To start with i found a pile of filings on the drain plug. Not a good sign i thought.
Filler plug - filings.jpg

Palaver bearings don't look great to me. So all those suggesting the creaking was these, you were right :thumby: LH (adjustable side) seem ok, but i can't say the same for the RH... But am i right in thinking both should be replaced rather than just one? I've seen the price! So if i can get away with doing just one side, then i will.
Paralever pins - LH & RH.jpg
Paralever pin - RH - wear 1.jpg
Paralever bearing races 1.jpg

For the UJ. Am i able to add any grease to this while i have it in my hands? Can i push some moly grease into them? I'm really not familiar with these so comments welcome! In general it feels smooth and free, but there is a very gentle resistance as it reaches dead centre. I might post a video as hard to describe. I'm not excited by the prospect of having to replace that too, let alone trying to find one, in 2 weeks!

Right, out to pull the drive apart...
 
Oh. Depending on what i find in the FD. Any ideas of where i can send it for a refurb and get it back within 2 weeks? :aidan

Nothing like a bit of pressure to liven things up!
 
Matt. Thanks again for confirmation. It's good to get some feedback!

Below is a little pictorial of the disassembly and what i found. To be honest, i damned glad i got onto this as there seems to more than one thing that needs attention...

To start with i found a pile of filings on the drain plug. Not a good sign i thought.
View attachment 286900

Palaver bearings don't look great to me. So all those suggesting the creaking was these, you were right :thumby: LH (adjustable side) seem ok, but i can't say the same for the RH... But am i right in thinking both should be replaced rather than just one? I've seen the price! So if i can get away with doing just one side, then i will.
View attachment 286901
View attachment 286902
View attachment 286903

For the UJ. Am i able to add any grease to this while i have it in my hands? Can i push some moly grease into them? I'm really not familiar with these so comments welcome! In general it feels smooth and free, but there is a very gentle resistance as it reaches dead centre. I might post a video as hard to describe. I'm not excited by the prospect of having to replace that too, let alone trying to find one, in 2 weeks!

Right, out to pull the drive apart...

The scuffing on the fixed paralever pin is just like mine was and results from the bearing having locked due to the impact brinneling causing the inner race to spin on the pin. The good news is that the other bearing looks ok but the test is to spin it with your fingers and feel for any notchiness. It's your judgement here - you'd probably get away with a very slight notchy feeling (at least for your trip) but if it feels like it wants to lock up... Well you know the answer...

The bad news is that if the fixed pin has been badly worn by the locked bearing then it'll need replacing too. Try the inner race of the good bearing on it and feel for any rocking or movement when you manipulate it. Again it's a judgement call here...

With regards to the drive shaft, there's no harm in trying to manipulate some grease into the bearings (I did with mine when I had it all to bits - twice...). How effective this is, I'm not sure but it can't hurt. Mikeyboy on here can rebuild driveshafts and Steptoe on here (in London) http://www.gsshop.biz or Mikeyboy would be able to rebuild your FD if it needs it.
 
It's definitely the crown wheel bearing...

Right, FD apart. Pleased to report the pinion bearing is silky smooth. Hooray! :bounce1

The taper roller is also silky smooth and the races look clean. See image below. :bounce1

As for the crown wheel bearing. It looks fine but it's rubbish. There's a shed load of play at the 6-12 O'clock position, a little less at other points. This has to be source of the feint little rhythm.

Here's a video of the play. Hope the movement is apparent, hard to video. For a single sided swing arm this can't be good.

https://youtu.be/meDD8IRyIfE


Here's the interior of the drive...

FD - pinion view - internal.jpg


And here's the crown wheel - taper roller looks good to me?

FD crown wheel & taper roller.jpg


Thankfully i already have a spare bearing. So tomorrow's activities are clear :)

Matt. I think you're right. The RH side palaver bearings look like yours, or at least heading well in that direction. I think they have to be replaced, along with the RH pin. So bearing and FD tomorrow, new paralever parts next weekend along with re-assembly.
 
Good stuff (well, not good but you know what I mean ;) ) - glad you've found the problem.
Let us know how you get on with the bearing replacement etc.
 
Cheaper and probably (time will tell) better than the roller bearings. Just fitted similar to my R1100RS:

https://motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/Parts.php?T=6&Q=<br>TRA11094


I did see these on MW and of course the cost is attractive! Are all the torque values the same on reassembly?

I am tempted, but i'm also looking for the tidiest route back to mobility, which points to the RH bearing replacement?. I'm not sure what to do? I plan to order over the phone tomorrow morning, so have until then to decide.

Off to the workshop to remove/re-fit the big bearing. Hopefully the FD will be one unit again by lunch time :)
 
Just noticed something. Really not sure if it's an issue

The 'spare' bearing I have (bought on here a while back) seems to be a C3 bearing. Is that right? I wouldn't have expected that, but then I'm not an expert.

Any ideas? Should I just buy another? Or is the OEM also a C3?

uploadfromtaptalk1437902226925.jpg

uploadfromtaptalk1437902259868.jpg



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I did see these on MW and of course the cost is attractive! Are all the torque values the same on reassembly?

Fixed pin 150Nm, same as std. Adjustable pin, words to the effect of "tighten until it seats, then back off 1/4 turn". Locknut 105Nm same as std. Comes with instructions.

If it were me, I wouldn't even consider replacing just one bearing - compare the extra cost with the hassle of re-doing it in a few thousand miles? :nenau
 
The 'spare' bearing I have (bought on here a while back) seems to be a C3 bearing. Is that right? I wouldn't have expected that, but then I'm not an expert.

Any ideas?

Hmm, can't give you a definitive answer, but I have just rebuilt an 1100 gearbox and I was advised to use C3 bearings due to the operating temperature. It may well be that the same advice applies to the wheel bearing :nenau

Afterthought: the old bearing will be marked C3 or not on its outer rim :rolleyes:
 
Hmm, can't give you a definitive answer, but I have just rebuilt an 1100 gearbox and I was advised to use C3 bearings due to the operating temperature. It may well be that the same advice applies to the wheel bearing :nenau

Afterthought: the old bearing will be marked C3 or not on its outer rim :rolleyes:
Thanks Cook1e. Have done a speedy search and the bearing looks good. I guess I didn't think that bearing, being bathed in oil, would need extra clearance? But what do i know . The part number matches so it's going on .

For the paralever. Thanks for info. I'm almost sold on the idea now



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For the paralever. Thanks for info. I'm almost sold on the idea now

Please don't take it as a recommendation - I've only just fitted it :augie

However, I replaced the paralever bearings on my GS and MW brought out the plain bush kit about a fortnight later :blast
 
I replaced two sets of paralever bearings when I had my 1100.
If these had been available at the time, I'd have installed them.
 
Big bearing off. Friggin heck it was tight. Not sure I'd want to be wrestling with thaton theroad side! Everything cleaned up. Crown wheel in the freezer. Now off to do some shopping before I get throttled. Then back to fit the bearing and that part will be done!

Don't worry Cook1e, your comment was taken more in the spirit that I won't be the only one taking a 'chance'. I'm kinda warming to the price too!



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FD bearing on. Dead easy. Crown wheel in the freezer for 3hrs, hot bearing (I don't have a thermometer, so spit test had to suffice), the bearing fell on . I then got the shims in place and fitted it into the cover which I warmed beforehand. No need. The crown wheel was still so cold it fell in. I had to warm it all gently in order to keep it together. I was very happy this all behaved, unlike getting the bearing off! Which needed my big Bertha extractor (after grinding the claws to shape), some muscle and yes, lots and lots of heat.

uploadfromtaptalk1437936448393.jpg

What a difference in the feel of the assembly. Zero play, at least none I can feel (I know, maybe I'm not strong enough )

Pleased with progress so far! What could possibly go wrong...

Paralever next weekend. I took all the races out so I'm committed to either the taper roller or the bushes. I'm leaning toward the bushes at the moment...

Thanks for all the input. First time around on this job so it's invaluable



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Nice job :thumb

I like that extractor - proper tool :)
 
Parts arrived from MW! So this afternoon it all goes back together. Hooray!

Thought I'd post some pics of the paralever bearings (I opted for the bushes) since I haven't seen them before and I've not found any other posts showing them. They look nicely made. I'm interested to see the lock nut on the adjustable pin is aluminum alloy and not steel like the OEM. They are anodised a dark brown, so no mistaking with the OEM parts.

The parts.
uploadfromtaptalk1438429726944.jpg

uploadfromtaptalk1438429775771.jpg


Fixed side, compared to OEM.
uploadfromtaptalk1438429818596.jpg


Adjustable side compared to OEM.
uploadfromtaptalk1438429860688.jpg

Bearings now in the freezer while I faff around getting other parts organised. Hopefully back later with a trouble free conclusion!



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Bearings in. A doddle. Freezer and heat again but really not that much heat, just so you can touch/hold for a short moment.

Choice tools (I hate Faithful gear by the way, it's crap, but I inherited the fine adjustment tool from somewhere!).
uploadfromtaptalk1438435846568.jpg

Bearing seated.
uploadfromtaptalk1438435805570.jpg

Internal view of the seated bearing.
uploadfromtaptalk1438435885753.jpg

Onto reassembly now



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Excellent.
I'd definitely have tried them on my 1100 if they'd been available when I had it.
 
All done!. Just two things annoying me.

Getting the new boot on its a bloody fiddle. Put it onto the side stand in the end to straighten it all up which helped, kind of.

The other thing is the ABS sensor gap on the rear. It's much much bigger than the spec! I can't fathom why. It had no shims and everything else has gone together as it should. Tomorrow I'll get out for a test ride. Am I right to think the ABS will show a fault if it can't register the sensor? I can only guess it was always like this and it was definitely working, so I'm scratching my head.

Apart from the big bearing removal, this job was, thankfully, relatively straight forward. Apart from the very proper extractor to remove the big bearing, the only specialist tools were this 30mm socket I modified.

uploadfromtaptalk1438448366235.jpg

I am soooo glad I got this apart. There's no way that old bearing was going to survive 3-4k miles down to Italy and back with luggage. I would also recommend what steptoe has suggested a long while back and get the rear wheel off, pull out the seal (empty the FD oil first!). Saying this, my bearing has an intact cage so showed no signs of trouble. But the state of the FD oil and the pile of metal on the drain plug suggested otherwise...

The symptoms I had that caused me to get into this were:

1. an odd sort of rhythm from the bike. It was so subtle I couldn't tell if it was engine or drive train.

2. I now realise the loss of slow speed precision was a symptom, but I blamed tyre pressures.

3. A couple of times the rear end seemed to step out a bit, but I was always giving it a handful into a nice bend so figured I was unlucky with the road surface.

In the end I never added all these up. I think (hope!) Tomorrow's test ride presents me with all these details fixed!

As always. Thanks for the feedback and input. This site is priceless.





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