R1150gs 03 twin spark not starting. HELP PLEASE!

Danzio

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Riding along perfectly well and got a huge backfire from the exhaust which then killed the engine and the bike stopped.

By the roadside for a good 3 hours checking various things.

Checked stick coils (which are brand new) plugs, all good (including a spark test on both sides against the frame). battery was all good. connections and side stand switch working all as they should.

Tried multiple times to then turn it over, and the engine sounds good, no abnormal noises, and it cranks fine with what seems like decent pressure... but it just won't fire.

When i'm trying to turn it over it keeps backfiring slightly (fuelling issue?)

The battery has obviously taken some hammer when trying to repeatedly turn it over and so when trying now the clock resets. (including that info in-case its relevant.)

Only had the bike 4 weeks and done 400 miles... Gutted, as its such a lovely example.

Any help will be greatly appreciated. I did try looking on various forums but not found anything specific to my needs.

Cheers guys.
 
Try swopping relays 6 and 7 around and listen to hear if pump still primes when you turn ignition on.
Leave them that way (they're identical) and try again.


If no joy:

Ignition off
pull fuse 5
Ignition on.
open and close throttle fully twice.
Ignition off.
Replace fuse 5

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Thanks for replies thus far guys.

Will have a check first thing tomorrow and get back to you on the issue.

I'm absolutely gutted!
 
Keep your chins up mate. :thumb These 1150's are superb bikes and there's very little to go wrong compared to the likes of the 1200's etc. It'll be something simples. Plenty of "experts" on here to help out too. :D
 
Sill question, but how do i take out the relays? Attempts so far with my hands have lead to failure and i don't know if prying it up with a screwdriver etc is really a good idea?
 
Ok, tried all above and still not firing. Swapped relays over, and tried removing fuse 5, 2 twists and replacing. Ignition on does lead to fuel pump priming noise and all lights and ancillaries work as they should, lights/horn/indicators etc etc.

This is really confusing me!

Thanks again for the help so far.
 
Hmmm. Hall effect sensors? Anyone near you got one you can substitute? Take the front cover off and inspect the wiring which often deteriorates because of engine heat, causing a short. Hence, it may spark but not at the correct time or consistently.
 
Can I charge the battery via the right hand + plug on the side of my starter? Or is that just for jump starting? If is is for charging where would I put the negative clip? (The battery has suffered with repeated attempts to start!)

Scotboxer, I don't think there is unfortunately... Not that I know of anyway as i've only just moved down here for university.
Where is/are the hall effect sensors? I'll take a look at them while i'm on.
 
you need to fist establish if its a fuel issue or ignition,take a plug out ,hold it on the head with a piece of wood ,swing engine over ,are you getting a spark(best done in a dark room ) ,if yes then the ignition side is ok .
then look at the fuel side
 
Fizzer, I mentioned in my first post that i'd tried this earlier. Was getting decent spark on both sides.

I'm looking into the fueling side now but after checking relays i have no idea what to check. I could take apart the injectors but have no idea how to put them back together. A haynes could help I suppose!
 
oh ok,the hall sensor is behind the front pulley its a flat plate with two magnetic picks on it ,the wire feeds up to a multi plug under the alternator,but how one would be able to test it is a mystery ,unless of course the wires are broken ,they could be tested for continuity .:thumb
 
With the description the OP gave in his opening post I'd suspect it's the hall sensor...

Even having a spark at the plugs and the injectors receiving a signal it could still be the hall sensor
 
Hall effect, possibly the chopper has lost its tag, mine did this recently. Sounds like it wants to start but just backfires.
 
Steptoe said:
With the description the OP gave in his opening post I'd suspect it's the hall sensor...

Even having a spark at the plugs and the injectors receiving a signal it could still be the hall sensor
Click to expand...

The oracle has spoken! Check the HES. Have a look here ...
 
Thanks guys, I will have a check as soon as I can get back to the bike. I'm heading back to Newcastle now as i'm from there and bikes in Middlesbrough so will have a look as soon as i'm home. Really appreciate the help getting her up and running again.

I'll post back here soon.
 
Can confirm that tachometer needle bounces when trying to start, i'll watch more of the video later but its all seeming to confirm what you have all suggested 'Hall effect sensor'

will keep updated with progress when I can.
 
Steptoe said:
With the description the OP gave in his opening post I'd suspect it's the hall sensor...

Even having a spark at the plugs and the injectors receiving a signal it could still be the hall sensor
Click to expand...

Good one, is that because it's simply sending the spark at the wrong time?
 
If possible try a swap with a known good sensor before buying as they're not cheap. If you do end up needing one this guy on eblag is a good option.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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