Crappy 100GS Para Headlight - upgrade?

The Other PaulG

Still searching
UKGSer Subscriber
Joined
Jul 1, 2004
Messages
6,471
Reaction score
758
Location
Surrey, England
Hi -

On a few night-time rides recently, I've realised just how poor the standard Para headlight is. In fact my LED Petzl head-torch is looking like fair competition right now...

So, does anyone know of a quick-fix? Can I simply upgrade the bulb???

I'm heading off into Europe in 2 weeks so any advise would be much appreciated.

Cheers,


Paul G (the other)
 
Paul,
noticed that the headlights on the '87 Transalp and the 91 R80GS were very similar, but that the Transalp headlight was much better on the same roads.
As both were Continental fittings, I had intended to buy one and try it on the BMW but I never got around to it. The Transalp unit is the same headlight unit as a Suzuki Alto - you might find one in a breakers
 
Crap Headlight

Hi Paul
I thought the same as you yes the lights are crap and being a cheep skate I went for the cheep fix 100w main head light bulb 60w dip with the main beam through a Relay and a set of small spots that come on with the main beam both with 60w bulbs also thorough a relay I have fitted a switch on the faring so that I can turn off the spots but I don’t think that I have ever used it
There is plenty of room under the tank for the 2 relays
With this set up the main beam is great the dip beam is still the same but as it gets used all the time i.e. Day time lights so I didn’t go for a high wattage dip bulb as I was told I might have a problem with the battery going flat
I put the relays in to save my switch gear because I wasn’t sure if they would be up to the extra load but if the switch gear can handle the bulbs it would be even easer just to change the headlight bulb but you would still need one for the spots
If I can work out how to do it I can put some pictures on line for you
STAY SAFE BOB
 
Paul

I've got a parallel thread going on the GS UK site. I used my 1989 R100GS-PD for the first time at night the other evening and was appalled by just how bad my headlight was.

I had noticed it was loose in the plastic surround so dismantled the headlamp/instrument.crash bar assembly. Not only did I discover a fair bit of corrosion in various wiring connectors (and they were bare) but the three plastic 'widgets' which hold the headlight in place were worn. With the headlight loose, it's never going to point the beam accurately.

Motobins also described the Paris Dakar as a 'parts bin special' in that various parts from other models were used. Apparently almost all PDs were destined for the German market and were very expensive at the time. Hence the kph speedo and European-spec headlight lens. My bike now has the mph speedo but I'm not sure about the headlight lens. Clearly if that is a European-spec lens, it will throw what light there is in the wrong direction.

The markings on the lens are numerous and presumably at least one of the sets of numbers I/Ds as either European or UK-spec.

My numbers are BOSCH H4 02HCR 50R00157-20 02 290-20 1305621160

So what I plan to do is -
(a) fit new 'widgets'.
(b) make sure I have a UK-spec lens,
(c) fit 100/80w bulb from Motobins/Motoworks.

Of course I must make sure that the wiring connections are sound and may consider fitting another relay.

PS I've just been speaking to Judge on the phone and it seems the numbers on my lens are almost identical to those on his - and he believes his to be UK-spec.
 
the real bosch part number is on the back of the reflector on the left hand side. it can just about be read in situ.

LHD unit is 0 303 750 100

lens marking: 315 02 288-20 50R-00134-20

RHD unit is 1 305 353 919 - 730 last group is only found on the box & not on the lamp & prolly doesn't mean much.

lens marking: 50R00157-20 02 290-20 1305621160
 
Thank you Cookie, you've answered my question so no need to reply to my PM. I now know I have the RH drive version.:)
 
Eek! When you say LHD and RHD, do you mean 'left hand DIP' and 'right hand DIP', if so I have the WRONG one.
 
I have a 1993 GSPD, and I improved the headlight by installing a Sylvania Silverstar bulb--I got mine on sale--and wrapped the stock bulb in a clean cloth, wrapped it with tape, and stowed it in the little jockeybox in the gas tank as a spare.

Perhaps someday I will install a 400 or 500 watt alternator and some killer driving lights. But for now, this does the job somewhat better than the stock setup.

I would be leery of installing a 100/60 watt bulb. Extra heat may not be good for the housing, and the wires going to the bulb are none too thick.:beerjug:
 
Paul Narramore said:
Eek! When you say LHD and RHD, do you mean 'left hand DIP' and 'right hand DIP', if so I have the WRONG one.

sorry, not that clear in hindsight.

LHD = left hand drive ie. continental

RHD = right hand drive ie. UK
 
Thanks Cookie; you've just saved me £50+
PS And it's till 0-0 England v Azerbaijan!
 
I also use a 20w sidelight bulb and use this as a daytime light rather than a dipped beam. It saves on the electricity and is plenty bright enough.
 
100/60 bulb

Thanks for the responses - clearly the easy option would be the bulb swap..... but just like Chiefrider I would be nervous about the extra power frying the wiring/switches/bulb holder.

Has anyone tried a more powerful bulb, whilst leaving everything else standard? Did it cause anything to fail?

Paul G
 
Re: 100/60 bulb

The Other PaulG said:
Has anyone tried a more powerful bulb, whilst leaving everything else standard? Did it cause anything to fail?

Paul G

not much point IMO. it's pretty easy to relay it.

i could post a diagram in case anyone is unsure how, but prolly not today as i am [perhaps uncharacteristically] busy.

BTW be aware, under about 3800 rpm the battery is discharging with the standard dip & tail on.
if you fit higher wattage bulbs, you'll have to ride faster :D
 
R100GS Headlight

The headlight on the R100GS and R100GSPD are the same as a K75S . If you require a UK headlight lens you can pick up plenty of spares from breakers, as they are not as rare as R100GS
For cross refrencing parts use
http://www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com/fiche/fiche.asp
This has all BMW parts on the web,as this is an American site remember the headlight part number is for Right hand Dip
Regards
Colin
 
Decision made

Ok - we're there.

I've invested in a 100/80W bulb (lucky I'll be using the bike 'off-road only'....ha ha ) and a decent Bosch relay.

I may be OK regarding the discharge issue, because my bike's previous owner (Howard Millichap of this list) fitted an uprated Police-issue alternator. I'm not sure what its claimed output is, but that might just do the trick. Thanks Howard...

(I still like the thought of HAVING to ride faster, though...)

In case anyone else has similar headlight concerns, I'll get on with the conversion, and then once I've tried it I'll post a messsage to let you know whether it was worthwhile.

Cheers,

Paul G
 
Paul,
Hope this doesn't disappoint too much but....it's not the alternator that is police spec. It's the regulator. It's "supposed" to give around 280 watts instead of 240.
Don't ask how or why. I just fell for the sales blurb.
 
Uprated alternator, 400Watts

Hi all,

I've just replaced the original 280Watt on my '82 R100RS for an uprated 400Watt one from Motor Works. I had two 50Watt spots and heated grips and to prevent the battery running down I had to maintain a minimum of 4000rpm, i.e. 75mph in top gear at night, hardly ideal. The conversion has so far been a huge success, I've just got a heated waistcoat and it is sheer BLISS, should have done this ages ago.

I did the conversion about a month back and have done about 800miles since, about half of which was with all the electrics switched on. The max. voltage is still the same at about 13.8volts according to the voltmeter on the dash, and the electrolyte in the battery hasn't gone down as far as I can tell, so, so far, there's no sign of overcharging. With everything switched on (including the new heated waistcoat, 40Watts?) I can now maintain battery voltage at around 3,200rpm, making life a lot easier and warmer.

The kit consisted of new rotor and stator plus a new diode board and some new wiring, but NO INSTRUCTIONS. To be fair, Motor Works did tell me so before I bought it, and, actually, installation wasn't too difficult but then again I do have a certain amount of experience and qualifications with electrics. Beware, though, if you are replacing the rubber mounts for the new board with solid ones, there may be a problem with the live side of the mount: solid mounts will just short the output to earth, so it might be wiser to stick to using rubber mounts at ths particular point. I've had a thread on the HUBB (Horizons Unlimited Bulletin Board) under BMW Technical, see below,

http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/ubb/Forum11/HTML/000493.html

there's an awful lot mor information there. I also took photos as the job progressed if anybody's interested.

Cheers,

John
 
standard solid state unit does not seem to give much output. you could try an old tin mechanical unit from an older bmw or guzzi. they give more.
 
Output

Cookie,

Are you talking about the diode board or the voltage regulator here?
 


Back
Top Bottom