Exhaust flap drama. BMW aren't listening.

I would have thought it would burn off pretty quick particularly after a few hard runs. Though at least it might run down into the spindle pivot point when it heats up.
If anyone wants to grease theirs and have a look again after a few hundred miles or so it would answer the question as to whether it was worth it or not.

Actually good idea, might just pop the exhaust off and have a look later............;)
 
If you’d like some headers, I have some, I bought akra headers recently. Just let me know if you’d like them

It’s a MY 14 with 20k but they are beautiful (well as nice as headers can be )
 
I would have thought it would burn off pretty quick particularly after a few hard runs. Though at least it might run down into the spindle pivot point when it heats up.
If anyone wants to grease theirs and have a look again after a few hundred miles or so it would answer the question as to whether it was worth it or not.

I’ve been doing mine with nickel slip since new having had problems with the last two bikes. Three inspections and 15k miles and it has been unnecessary to re-grease. I can’t say if it gets into the right places but I can say my valve has not seized yet. I hope that hasn’t jinxed it.
 
I’ve been doing mine with nickel slip since new having had problems with the last two bikes. Three inspections and 15k miles and it has been unnecessary to re-grease. I can’t say if it gets into the right places but I can say my valve has not seized yet. I hope that hasn’t jinxed it.

At least some good news, just took my exhaust off no change Nikel slip is still the same after a 1000 miles.
 
I see, thanks for the replies. I suppose if it's not melting it may be protecting the bearing from the worst of the heat. My thinking was the flap could only seize if the bearing wore so the valve flap then moved outside it's normal axis then jammed against the exhaust tubing or the bearing has failed because it is actually unsuitable for long term use in a hostile environment like inside an exhaust. Short journeys that generate condensation may affect it's longevity too I would guess. Madness to make it unserviceable.

ps mine is still good after 19k in 2 years, I will just disconnect it if it fails and continue ride with a full wallet :beerjug:
 
I see, thanks for the replies. I suppose if it's not melting it may be protecting the bearing from the worst of the heat. My thinking was the flap could only seize if the bearing wore so the valve flap then moved outside it's normal axis then jammed against the exhaust tubing or the bearing has failed because it is actually unsuitable for long term use in a hostile environment like inside an exhaust. Short journeys that generate condensation may affect it's longevity too I would guess. Madness to make it unserviceable.

ps mine is still good after 19k in 2 years, I will just disconnect it if it fails and continue ride with a full wallet :beerjug:

There is no bearing. The spindle goes into a fibre ring at each end. The flap can not move further than it should, there is a stop where the cable attaches and the cable turns the flap which is activated by the actuator motor which is further up the exhaust. The problem is, the flap moves on startup and then in operation, then when you park the bike up for days, the thing sits in the open position and stays there as the exhaust cools down (harsh environment). Then when you switch the ignition on again the flap is supposed to close and open, if its stuck it throws a code to the eco. Lubrications the flap in side could help as long as it doesn't burn off, but that won't stop wear on the spindle and washer. Like I said, my first one failed after 30 months :)
 
I read about this problem in a used GS buyers guide in one of the monthly mags recently . It really is astonishing that any manufacturer has a system that is known be so unreliable and expensive to replace then moves it from a section in the rear part of the exhaust into the actual headers immediately doubling the cost of replacement when it fails . And so far as I can from what I’ve read it really is WHEN and not IF. :blast:blast

The cynical will say they don’t care and it increases part sales but surely the engineeers care and surely BMW management would prefer to build a better product rather than deal with all the warranty issues? :(

Go on call me naive or idealistic :p
 
What is really crafty is that it is not covered under extended warranty. That says it all

Sent from my Lenovo TAB 2 A10-70F using Tapatalk
 
If you’d like some headers, I have some, I bought akra headers recently. Just let me know if you’d like them

It’s a MY 14 with 20k but they are beautiful (well as nice as headers can be )

Id not mind a spare set if you have some... got a plastic bag on mine 2nd day of ownership :blast can you PM me.. thanks :)
 
I read about this problem in a used GS buyers guide in one of the monthly mags recently . It really is astonishing that any manufacturer has a system that is known be so unreliable and expensive to replace then moves it from a section in the rear part of the exhaust into the actual headers immediately doubling the cost of replacement when it fails . And so far as I can from what I’ve read it really is WHEN and not IF. :blast:blast

The cynical will say they don’t care and it increases part sales but surely the engineeers care and surely BMW management would prefer to build a better product rather than deal with all the warranty issues? :(

Go on call me naive or idealistic :p

The thing is, there are loads of dealers who replace the headers for free or a small contribution. I have had two sets, with just a £60 contribution, both well out of warranty. So I guess it depends on how many fail vs how much it costs BMW to replace. I doubt if many would buy £1300 headers for themselves just to fix a flap, that doesn't really make any difference to the bike. So I would say, stupid design slip up by BMW, which again, I would have thought they would fix, but maybe its not costing them much in the grand scheme of things.
 
i dont understand why some people (not just in this thread) are advocating acf 50 as a lubricant?,it isnt!
 
At least some good news, just took my exhaust off no change Nikel slip is still the same after a 1000 miles.

Fair play for checking. That’s impressive that it has lasted.

At least the design of the valve is that it will generally stick in the open position as it’s natural position when you finish a ride would be the closed position as you’d just be idling. Some engineer was thinking ahead there.

The bit that sticks in my craw and is just a bit crafty is that BMW switched from having the valve as a connector piece to being integrated into the headers. If you had to replace a valve unit for a couple of hundred quid outside of warranty, while not great, it’s not the end of the world but to have to do €1500 worth of headers is not just outrageous it’s so damn wasteful of materials.
 
Fair play for checking. That’s impressive that it has lasted.

At least the design of the valve is that it will generally stick in the open position as it’s natural position when you finish a ride would be the closed position as you’d just be idling. Some engineer was thinking ahead there.

The bit that sticks in my craw and is just a bit crafty is that BMW switched from having the valve as a connector piece to being integrated into the headers. If you had to replace a valve unit for a couple of hundred quid outside of warranty, while not great, it’s not the end of the world but to have to do €1500 worth of headers is not just outrageous it’s so damn wasteful of materials.

well i have had 5 bm bikes with the exhaust flap and over a combined 100,000 miles have never had a problem with any of them,go figure
 
well i have had 5 bm bikes with the exhaust flap and over a combined 100,000 miles have never had a problem with any of them,go figure

Go figure what, 5 bikes over 100k, means average 20k each bike. How long have you owned each bike, were they all LC, as it seems more of a problem with the LC than the flap in the separate pipe. So not very scientific analysis. The flap failure does not seem to be linked to mileage, but time, and how long the bike stands with the flap in the open position between rides.
 
Had a slight squeak on mine,15 plate lc,15k miles.Stripped it for a look.Was just the cable nipples in the operating unit a bit rusty.flap was free and quiet.Quick squirt with acf 50 and all good.Worth having a look for half an hours work
 
i dont understand why some people (not just in this thread) are advocating acf 50 as a lubricant?,it isnt![/Aviation

What is ACF-50?

ACF-50, Anti-Corrosion Formula, is a state of the art, anti-corrosion/lubricant compound, that has been specifically designed for the Aerospace Industry.

ACF-50 can be described as an ultra thin fluid film compound which must be applied on an annual basis. ACF-50 actively penetrates through the corrosion deposits to the base of the cell where it emulsifies and encapsulates the electrolyte, lifting it away from the metal surface.

ACF-50 then dispels this moisture and provides an atmospheric barrier which prevents any further moisture contact, thereby keeping the cell inactive. This compound continues to actively penetrate and "creep" into the tightest of seams, lap joints, micro cracks and around rivet heads, dissipating the moisture, even salt water, in these corrosion prone areas.

These unique abilities of ACF-50 remain effective for 12 months, gradually disappearing as it is chemically consumed.

What will it actually do?

Being ‘Pro Active’ about corrosion control is the best way to protect your investment. Regular ACF-50 treatments reduce maintenance costs and improve overall flight safety. The application methods and specially designed equipment, deliver ACF-50’s penetrating fog to all critical aircraft structure. Only ACF-50’s advanced corrosion control properties, protect both airframe and avionics systems.

Kills existing corrosion & prevents new
'ACTIVE' for up to 12 months
Excellent lubricant & penetrant
Approved for use on electrics & engines
Easily applied non-drying, ultra thin, clear film
Very economical
Contains no wax, silicon, Teflon or water
 


Back
Top Bottom