another great idea

Well it seems I had the pump etc fitted incorrectly
. I rotated it by one bolt hole and I have cured my fuel gauge fault! .. the bike is even trying to start. . If you consider backfiring trying to start😉 but progress is progress

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Having your quick disconnects like you have them can easily lead to an incorrect connection.
 

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thanks for the Picture Ian wish I had asked 3 weeks ago.. After doing my internal examination yesterday it all became clear.. (that there was a flow /return) since rotating all the tank internals the bike is at least backfiring .. Maybe I was suffering a bit of fuel starvation from the pick up pipe being too high ? I seriously doubt it I have always seen plenty of petrol coming out of the pipes.. But nothing else changed..:confused::confused::confused::confused:'

It dawned on me this morning that if I have managed to fit the coil "under" the bracket its meant to sit "on" could I have fitted it 180 degrees round the wrong way ? possibly explaining my apparent timing issues!? but it has run and aeorstart doesn't help..... so its unlikely but certainly worth checking
 
No eureka moment when the coil was removed. . Even I am not inept enough to fit it backwards. .and all the terminals are spotless and firm. Which I know doesn't mean it works. . At least it will be easier to test whilst it's off
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Makes no difference with the coil. Both spark plugs fire at exactly the same time. The motronic is a "wasted spark" system.

Even though both plugs fire at the same time, only the cyclinder with fuel and compression creates the bang.

Ian
 
I wondered what controlled the spark.. .I am learning every day. .

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The motronic is a simple and basic system. The Hall sensors control the timing for ignition and the injection. One sensor for each and they are mounted 180 degrees apart.

As the engine rotates the first hall sensor is activated and the motronic signals both injectors to pulse. (Fuel)

180 degrees later the other hall sensor is activated and the motronic tells both plugs to spark (ignition)

So you can cross connect the plugs and the injectors and it makes no difference.

Simple.

Next time you get the bike running place your fingers on the plastic fuel pipes to the injectors. You will feel them pulsing at the same time.
 
The autotrician has been. . There is a break in one plug lead and my coil is reading 700 on the secondary instead of 1300 ohms .. expensive

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The motronic is a simple and basic system. The Hall sensors control the timing for ignition and the injection. One sensor for each and they are mounted 180 degrees apart.

As the engine rotates the first hall sensor is activated and the motronic signals both injectors to pulse. (Fuel)

180 degrees later the other hall sensor is activated and the motronic tells both plugs to spark (ignition)

So you can cross connect the plugs and the injectors and it makes no difference.

Simple.

Next time you get the bike running place your fingers on the plastic fuel pipes to the injectors. You will feel them pulsing at the same time.

Does that mean there's a "wasted fuel injection" too? I know the fuel isn't wasted, as such, because it'll still be there when the inlet valve opens, but does that mean the fuel for one stroke of one cylinder is actually delivered in two shots from the injector?
 
I wondered that too..I am on stop. . Until my new plug leads come.. possibly 3 weeks 😢

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Does that mean there's a "wasted fuel injection" too? I know the fuel isn't wasted, as such, because it'll still be there when the inlet valve opens, but does that mean the fuel for one stroke of one cylinder is actually delivered in two shots from the injector?

It must do. But as you say the first charge sits in the throttle body waiting for the inlet valve to open.

It makes no difference because the two pulses of fuel together will be a correct measure of the amount of fuel needed to give the correct level of fuel for the fuel air ratio.
 
I am beginning to doubt the findings of my autotrician 😓
My new coil has arrived and I have been trying to compare readings. .
Barring measuring voltage and continuity. . My meter is a mystery to me! But in this setting /configuration I get identical readings.
Can anyone tell me if I am using it correctly? Preferably in "idiot" terms. I am beginning to think I have spent cash and suffered another delay in vain.
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I am beginning to doubt the findings of my autotrician
My new coil has arrived and I have been trying to compare readings. .
Barring measuring voltage and continuity. . My meter is a mystery to me! But in this setting /configuration I get identical readings.
Can anyone tell me if I am using it correctly? Preferably in "idiot" terms. I am beginning to think I have spent cash and suffered another delay in vain.
4c95fb080fa6bdf9771b3d9ba7005160.jpg


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My new ht cables came ... fitted them and my new coil. . Still won't start.

I have removed both rocker covers and re checked the valve clearence.
I currently have the front cover off with a view to check the timing. . Can anyone tell me what dimensions are needed to fabricate a lock pin?
But my hall sensor has gone back on in the same place it came from. + -.5mm I would say (the reference marks.i made with a blade prior to removing it are plain.to see)
Still I want to eliminate it as a problem so I am going to try and borrow a timing light and try measuring the values as a static test.. then when that doesn't prove anything. .. I will have to take it in somewhere.

Good spark-Good fuel delivery. -Good battery -New starter = a limp backfire (occasionally)
I preferred it when it was running rough I am going backwards

Anyway any info on the lock pin would be useful.
Thanks


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You have the patience of a saint. Would you not just pay someone to sort it out?
 
It's not patience. . It's stupidity. . I have considered taking it in (and may soon have to consider it again ) but
I don't know where?
the logistics of taking it it's a heavy beast to coax into a van /losing work etc. And when asked "what the problem? " I would have to answer " well it was totally stripped down and re assembled by a bloke with no idea what he was doing and now ... it won't start" (it's hardly suprising really)

I have already spent more than is sensible. . But I suppose unless it starts. ...I have no choice

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1: Make sure that both throttle stops really reaches the adjustment screws with accelerator "off".
2: Compression check done?
3: You haven't switched one of the injector cables with the one from the air box temp sensor upon reassembling?
 
Go back to that connector again. It started and idled fine when you played with that. There could be a break in the wire somewhere under the insulation, or maybe the epoxy in the connector is causing a problem. Also check for other things you may have disturbed when you were working on that connector.

Also check the wiring up at the headstock. The 1150 has a known problem with wires breaking inside the insulation because of the way they're cable tied. Maybe you disturbed it when you took off the loom. Try wiggling the wires there and see if it makes a difference.
 
I havent done a compressio test..its on my "to do "list but even if it is lower than it ought to be.. i rode the bike in the garage. Before taking it appart..

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Well having been unable to beg borrow or make a lock pin my "static" timing test has been a bit "half arsed" I have proven that
When I manually turn the engine over the fuel pump "pulses". Which suggests that my hall sender is not dead. (Obvious really since i am gettIng reliable spark) I was unable to measure anything else I need another pair of hands to hold all the cables

But I have read that I should be able to get a spark at TDC when hand cranking...i don't !!?

I have wiggled stretched and pulled every plug cleaned every earth cleaned every contact (external) on the ECU ..

ALL for nothing

I do have 2 spare! plugs which I had assumed we're for the ABS (which I don't have)
Can anyone verify this... please.
The last 2 pics are of the same plug.



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