Twin plugging and other options

Sean Kelly said:
Bought a cheap-as-chips strobe from eBay which suggests that my Gunson strobe with the adjustable advance dial may be playing up. The new strobe gives me standard timing at tickover and a few degrees less advance than standard over 3000 rpm with the Sexton bean-can. This is what I "want" to believe of course but if you tilt your head a little you can line the marks up any where you want. Mr. Warmshed of this parish has kindly offered to lend me his standard bean-can for comparative purposes and also as a spare for the upcoming trip.

In the meantime as I decided to ditch the K&N for this trip I thought I'd get some baseline results and fuelling data against an OEM filter. Removing the K&N improved initial throttle response and required a size down on the main jet to cure a slight richness as expected. Also the cheapest 3hp boost I ever had. The bike has a problem with sustained high-speed (well 90mph plus) at the moment, maybe fuel starvation and will require further investigation. Also, tickover has always smelt a bit rich and leads to sooty plugs around town so I also went from a 45 to 40 pilot which I think is now too weak. I think a 42.5 would be perfect if they made one.

Next step is to sort the starvation issue and to try the Boyer out.

Click to expand...

Would appreciate a link to the eBay strobe. My 100gs needs servicing and I binned my strobe years ago.
 
Ohhhhhh.... Oil in the rear drum and on the brake shoes. It has been suggested that the brake cam O-rings might be the culprit but I can't see how on a paralever. Consequently, I have decided not to mess with the ignition before the trip as the bike is running well and time is going to be running even shorter if I have to replace the bevel seal.
 
The problem with old bikes is that they are old. This is the crowngear after I've cleaned it up.

image.jpg


What's the verdict from the cognoscenti please? Fit the new seal and keep fingers crossed or more drastic action required.
 
You already know the answer grasshopper............finger crossing might work initially but early failure of the lip is pretty much a dead cert, tho always difficult from photos to guauge wear/damage accurately.

That said, I would be tempted to see if I could clean it up a little better, perhaps with a few strips if 1200 wet and dry, see if I could smoothi it out a bit more. I cant recall but is the seal able to be postioned at a slightly different depth - avoid the worst?
 
Seal could be moved in a little - but you might end up hard against the inner race and the extra friction/heat probably wont do the seal any good.
Most seals come in single and twin lipped types, might be worth trying to find out if that big one does - quite a few wheel bearing seals are the twin lip type as standard and twin lip is probably a better choice for the application anyway.
 
Not much scope for repositioning the seal. The dark line that is where the lip of the seal runs is actually very smooth. It seems more to be discolouration rather than pitting. I polished it up with 1200 wet and dry and will see what happenes. Will take a spare seal with me on the trip which should mean that I won't need it :aidan
 
It could be the seal on the protection tube, part no 24 on another drawing - from memory it just drives in so it could possibly be driven out , cleaned and coated with sealant and refitted.
But I mnight be confusing it with a Mono final drive ------------------.
 
It's weird... There should be a plug in the centre hole. This is missing. The centre hole is not wet with oil but after a ride with it plugged there was barely any oil collecting in or around the drum brake. I'll do a few more miles and keep my fingers crossed that this is the cause of the problem all along and not the seal.
 
Well.... whatever will be will be. The leak seems to have stopped after plugging the centre hole. I'm taking a spare seal with me as sod's law dictates I'm guaranteed to need one if I don't have one to hand. Bike has gone to the shipping agent's courtesy of Chas Mortimer's motorcycle courier service and I'll follow next weekend :bounce1

Only problem is where do I sit?

DSC_7718.jpg
 
It's a long time since Ive seen a picture of your bike Sean, but it sure does look good. That little box attached to the bash plate, is that for tools and does the loss of a couple of inches clearance create any issues?
 
Junk the bings, and get a set of mukunis, twin plugged will favour better breathing and better fuel atomisation from these carbs.
 
Getting back to the original thread here, Silent Hektic, fits on the rotor, no slap from the cam chain when ramping over the cams or bob weights, auto advances electronically, better fuel consumption smooooother motor. Not cheap, but transferable if you flog the bike on.
 
Thanks B Murr, the purple isn't to everyone's taste but beggars can't be choosers as good low miles bikes were hard to come by even back in 1998. The toolbox on the bash plate was from KTM and has never caused problems with the riding that I do. The custom built spare parts store jubilee clipped on the pannier frame is from the local builders merchants. It contains a surprising amount of parts including cables, levers, plugs, bean can, rotor and so on.

Upgrading to a set of mikunis would be a big investment both in cash and time, what would the improvement likely be in real world conditions? Andrew Sexton was completing a bike with a full-house motor that has mikunis when I collected my rebuilt engine but I don't recall as to why the were being used.
 
Hola! In NW Argentina... bike is playing up runs fine then total loss of spark for a few seconds. This morning no spark for first hour at all but while I was looking for the problem it just started sparking again. Have given all the wiring a good tug around and a bit stuck for ideas.
 
Even when it's not sparking, I can still get a spark from the ignition switch so I think coils are ok. Could it be hall-effect sensor or do they just fail outright?
 
I had a fault that was similar earlier in the year that turned out to be the ICU but Could have just as easily been the bean can. Whatever make sure you bypass the kill switch before changing anything else.
 
I just swapped out the beancan for the one that warmshed of thus Parrish was kind enough to lend me. I don't have a spare ICU to try. I'm optimistic that it's improved but will know more tomorrow. Before swapping I couldn't ride 5 mins this morning without it cutting out or stalking while ticking over on the stand. After changing it has been ok on short rides around the block. Will visit the local bike shop tomorrow and see if I can borrow a strobe and try a ride up into the foothills.

The kill switch wire feeds the starter solenoid and the ICU and so as the starter works I'm presuming the kill switch is ok.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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