Twin plugging and other options

How did the change of beancan go? is the bike okay now?
 
Thanks so much Dave, the beancan you so kindly lent got me going again. The rotor failed not long after but I always carry a spare and the removal tool. On the return leg of the trip now and will be back home with bike early Feb. Barring disasters of course. What a trip! but a shame the Dakar was a wash-out in Bolivia. The plus side was I actually "finished" the Uyuni stage to the cheers of 1000s after being mistaken for a real Dakar competitor.
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Thanks Kenny, 1000s more pix. Maybe will post some more when home. Charging failed again on the run to Montevideo in Uruguay so have been getting top-up charges everywhere I can. Made it to Buenos Aires, which is journey's end with it popping and banging but it didn't let me down.
 
Okey kokey.... well the bike looks well rough after that little jaunt but it is time to get it sorted ready for a stag weekend in Belgium :beerjug:

First problem is the charging system failed for a second time in Uruguay after which the charging light was off all the time. I've just had a look and the secondhand Motorworks rotor that I fitted only three weeks before has gone open circuit already. The diode board tests out Ok. I'm not bothered about more power from the charging system but would like some reliability. Choices I can identify seem to be the low cost new replacements from Motorworks/Motobins or the more expensive Alanko/Wunderlich rotor from Rainbow. The OE BMW rotor is prohibitively expensive. Anyone have direct experience of these options or an alternative please? I know there are no guarantees that a new one won't fail but some anecdotal evidence gives a little comfort.

The second problem identified so far is the head bearings which is never a pleasant job but after the hammering they have taken I can't complain too much.
 
My bike chews through head bearings. When I first changed them I found a piece of swarf in the bottom bearing which had clearly fallen out of the hole punched in the stem for the steering lock. Even so I've got through 2 sets since in 50k miles.

I have a rewound standard rotor on mine which was done in Johannesburg and has been going strong for the last 50k miles - wish I hadn't said that!
 
Usually the failure is in the last 100 mm of wire between the winding and the slip ring, and most decent rewind shops can press off the slip ring, unwind a couple of coils and resolder them to the slip ring while you wait.
Sometimes the break is at the solder joint itself and can be fixed without removing the slip ring, particularly if you have fitted a ignition system which fits above the alternator.
 
Sean Kelly said:
Choices I can identify seem to be the low cost new replacements from Motorworks/Motobins or the more expensive Alanko/Wunderlich rotor from Rainbow
Click to expand...

I fitted an Enduralast permanent magnet unit 10 years ago. One failure with the diode board was enough for me and I didn't want it failing on a trip.
I have been looking at electronic ignition and found this company and they do an alternative regulator - REG4

Other nice goodies there as well:)
 
Interesting.... that REG4 is described as a "Regulator REG4" but then says "Replacement for the original Bosch rectifier". I'm going to follow Beemerboff's and Chas's advice and see if I can find a motor rewind place to look at my two duff rotors.
 
Checking where the fault lies isnt that hard, the wires between the windings and the slip ring are easy to locate and with light pressure on a box cutter blade to cut through the lacquer on the wire and your continuity tester you can quickly find out whether the fault is in the windings or the last last 100 mm and connection to the slip ring.
And if you know you stand a better chance of getting the right quote!!
 
Ok.... I think dust has been getting into the bearings through the holes in the bottom of the steering stem and the steering lock.

Does anyone know where I can rent a puller to get the outer races from the frame? I don't have a welder and am not in the BMW club... I might order one from the US if all else fails http://www.cycleworks.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=64


Cheers

Sean
 
Sean Kelly said:
Ok.... I think dust has been getting into the bearings through the holes in the bottom of the steering stem and the steering lock.

Does anyone know where I can rent a puller to get the outer races from the frame? I don't have a welder and am not in the BMW club... I might order one from the US if all else fails http://www.cycleworks.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=64


Cheers

Sean
Click to expand...

I have one that you can use Sean, but I'm over here in Cork so postage will probably cost a bit back and forth, its an option anyway if nothing closer comes up for you. Just let me know.
 
Thanks for the offer B Murr.. I might take you up on it as the price of the cycleworks is near £130 with shipping and there is a good chance of being stung for import duty too. I'll have a think over the weekend. Maybe I can borrow a welder and attach a bit of metal that I can knock them out with.
 
Run a weld round in side and it'll drop out, it shrinks!
 
Sean Kelly said:
Thanks for the offer B Murr.. I might take you up on it as the price of the cycleworks is near £130 with shipping and there is a good chance of being stung for import duty too. I'll have a think over the weekend. Maybe I can borrow a welder and attach a bit of metal that I can knock them out with.
Click to expand...

$44 from http://www.northwoodsairheads.com/tools-and-t-shirts.php I think thats the one I have and it works a treat, I also bought the one to remove lower bearing from steering stem, that one was apiece of crap that bent and I resorted to dremel and chisel method. I'll weigh it and figure out postage from this end and let you know Sean. Just weighed it, its under 500g so about €11 regsitered from here to you in UK.
 
I also removed the lower race from the steering stem using the dremel and chisel which works pretty well. Judging by some rough looking witness marks I can see that someone has previously used the method of pushing the stem down and then drifting it off. I think it was a main dealer maybe 15 years ago. My friend with the welder is away on the costa del sol for a couple of weeks so I'd really like to take you up on your kind offer and borrow your tool please B Murr. If you could send me an email to "info (at) sunbeamland (dot) com" I can give you my address details and arrange some pennies to cover your costs.
 
A huge thanks to Bill aka B Murr for the kind loan of his bearing puller which arrived this week. It worked a treat and the outer bearing races practically leapt out of the headstock. I did apply a little heat with a hot air gun to help things along.













Also, the rewound rotor arrived and is now fitted. The company said they did hundreds of these for the metropolitan police back in the day because they were always failing.





The sting in the tail of this tale? I'd been worried about the gearbox being a bit rattly but the amount of debris stuck to the magnetic drain plug would make you weep. With that and the pushrod seals too its looking like a fair old rebuild job.
 
FAO Sean Kelly, my emails don't seem to be getting through to you but just letting you know that the package arrived. Cheers
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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