Exhaust valve seizure.
- Thread starter Whitters777
- Start date
My GSA has just been in for service, and N,Oxford have had to order a new exhaust because the valve has seized open apparently. I didn't even notice apart from the fact it has stopped squeaking when I turn the engine off. It has now covered 20,000 miles
Terry
Terry
Hi.
My 2013 R1200GS LC has a seized exhaust valve. Ive found some info replacing the valve with a sleeve but only on pre LC models.
I am astonished and extremely disappointed (Fu£k+-g furious) that BMW in their infinite wisdom have chosen not to fix this very well known fault, but instead have opted to redesign the exhaust so the valve is fixed permanently into the exhaust. This requires replacement of the whole exhaust from silencer forward at a cost of £1200. Only to have the same dodgy valve waiting to seize again.
Next week I am about to embark on a 5600 mile ride across Europe to Istanbul. Ive only learnt about this fault yesterday at its service (15000 miles). The bike seems to run ok so I presume the valve is stuck open.
Has anyone have a fix for this problem that won't cost me the earth?
Do the latest 2015 2016 models have the same problem?
Regards.
Whitters.
Mine is a 2016 and it's just seized open at 20,000 miles. New one being fitted on warranty
Terry
Bendy toy
Registered user
A stuck open flap valve simply makes the exhaust a bit more noisy at low throttle.
The whole thing is a bodged workaround to meet homologation noise tests.
The only likely solution is a regular squirt of silicone oil while it's still working and hope that's enough to keep it from seizing.
The alternative is a hacksaw and infill tube.
Sent somehow.
The whole thing is a bodged workaround to meet homologation noise tests.
The only likely solution is a regular squirt of silicone oil while it's still working and hope that's enough to keep it from seizing.
The alternative is a hacksaw and infill tube.
Sent somehow.
Mine was replaced under warranty after only 3 months and 4000 miles on my new LC GSA
Never had any issues on my previous TC GS.
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Never had any issues on my previous TC GS.
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Quite right, although no spray can lubricate the flap as the heat will just burn it off. I have had these on bikes and cars and they all fail eventually as the harsh heat environment in the hot gas flow is not conducive for a cheap rotating device. Crap idea by BMW
Everyone should be thankful that they don't own a Ducati Multistrada. Their exhaust valves are unprotected, seize regularly and seize shut, which stops the bike going beyond 6000rpm or thereabouts.
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Bike in for service today, just been told about this exhaust flap. I did think it sounded noisierish...
£1000 plus labour for replacement as has been quoted earlier. Told them to leave it.
Quite surprised and disappointed for a 22K miles bike.
£1000 plus labour for replacement as has been quoted earlier. Told them to leave it.
Quite surprised and disappointed for a 22K miles bike.
I just collect my bike after vagrant you repair. Hope will last for long
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Get Akra headers. Job done.
Yes, I keep looking at these.....
Ill keep the shitty flap for now, then if it fails after the warranty expires .....
Mark1965
Registered user
Flappy servo fault
My 2012 GS Suffered an ECU fault code related to exhaust valve in 2015 at 17000 miles. I've ignored it since but today I stripped the flap valve out, cleaned, lubed and freed it up. On refitting it was obvious that it's the servo motor that's at fault. So took it all off again and the servo only to find it's a sealed unit and unserviceable. On switching on ignition the servo makes a pulsing sound like it's trying but failing to actuate its pulley. I've seen several GS' making same racket on YouTube so it's a very common issue. Crap unreliable electronic sub-assembly. I'm going to simply ditch both the servo and vane assembly and replace with 67mm make up tube and sod the ecu code warning
My 2012 GS Suffered an ECU fault code related to exhaust valve in 2015 at 17000 miles. I've ignored it since but today I stripped the flap valve out, cleaned, lubed and freed it up. On refitting it was obvious that it's the servo motor that's at fault. So took it all off again and the servo only to find it's a sealed unit and unserviceable. On switching on ignition the servo makes a pulsing sound like it's trying but failing to actuate its pulley. I've seen several GS' making same racket on YouTube so it's a very common issue. Crap unreliable electronic sub-assembly. I'm going to simply ditch both the servo and vane assembly and replace with 67mm make up tube and sod the ecu code warning
comberjohn
Registered user
Here's where the pivot seizes, on the TC anyway.
It's a carbon composite bush. No lubrication involved. Supposed to self lube. Until it doesn't.
You won't get anything in there to free it up unless you get out the angle grinder as I did. Even then, I had to drill holes in the bush to get some lube in. The pully end doesn't seem to cause any problems.
Can't be bothered refitting it. Not convinced it'll last anyway.
Now use an eliminator tube. Sorted.
It's a carbon composite bush. No lubrication involved. Supposed to self lube. Until it doesn't.
You won't get anything in there to free it up unless you get out the angle grinder as I did. Even then, I had to drill holes in the bush to get some lube in. The pully end doesn't seem to cause any problems.
Can't be bothered refitting it. Not convinced it'll last anyway.
Now use an eliminator tube. Sorted.
Attachments
TeZREX
Registered user
R1200gs flappy valve fix
Well today I took the plunge and had a go at my exhaust valve on my 2013 gs. It was seized solid so I initially striped of my exhaust can and squirted a bit of plus gas on the pivot point/spindle and left it for a few mins to do its stuff. I then removed the black cover over the valve and disconnected the bowden cables (dont worry about getting them mixed up the ends are different sizes :?) ). Once these were disconnected I used a pair of water pump pliers to get the valve moving. Once I could move it a bit I used some Mr Muscle (remember to wear rubber gloves and eye protection it is caustic !! you have been warned...I am not responsible for your stupidity if you get it in your eyes!!!) oven cleaner and sprayed it at the pivot points , not loads just enough to soak the valve spindle. I then used a handy torx wrench (tee handle type) that fitted the bowden cable hole and worked the valve until it would open and return freely without and force being applied. I then got an old toothbrush and cleaned as mush of the loose carbon out of the exhaust and wiped the insides out with a bit of old cloth. Then I put a piece of cloth over the exhaust so it would catch any spray (it is caustic) and started the bike to blow out any liquid and loose crap (only a few seconds as it is quite loud). A quick squirt with WD40 then I refitted the cables and started the bike to make sure all was working... All good so re assembled.. I must look at the aftermarket options I know Black Shadow now do a replacement front pipe for £320 but for now its working...and it cost me pennies to sort...
Hopefully this will help someone else..
TeZ
Well today I took the plunge and had a go at my exhaust valve on my 2013 gs. It was seized solid so I initially striped of my exhaust can and squirted a bit of plus gas on the pivot point/spindle and left it for a few mins to do its stuff. I then removed the black cover over the valve and disconnected the bowden cables (dont worry about getting them mixed up the ends are different sizes :?) ). Once these were disconnected I used a pair of water pump pliers to get the valve moving. Once I could move it a bit I used some Mr Muscle (remember to wear rubber gloves and eye protection it is caustic
!! you have been warned...I am not responsible for your stupidity if you get it in your eyes!!!) oven cleaner and sprayed it at the pivot points , not loads just enough to soak the valve spindle. I then used a handy torx wrench (tee handle type) that fitted the bowden cable hole and worked the valve until it would open and return freely without and force being applied. I then got an old toothbrush and cleaned as mush of the loose carbon out of the exhaust and wiped the insides out with a bit of old cloth. Then I put a piece of cloth over the exhaust so it would catch any spray (it is caustic) and started the bike to blow out any liquid and loose crap (only a few seconds as it is quite loud). A quick squirt with WD40 then I refitted the cables and started the bike to make sure all was working... All good so re assembled.. I must look at the aftermarket options I know Black Shadow now do a replacement front pipe for £320 but for now its working...and it cost me pennies to sort...Hopefully this will help someone else..
TeZ
Why not leave it disconnected. remove the cables and leave the flap open? so what if its slightly noisier at low rpm?
My headers were replaced at the last service as the valve was squeaking. I was told it was £1800 -worth. I noticed last weekend the replacement has now started squeaking, about 3k miles later.
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