Off to Iran, at last

Much better today, had. Good ride South and treated myself to a nice hotel in Sanandaj with one of these:IMG_5113.jpg
And the view is good!
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Into Iran - with a movie star!

So as another beautiful day dawned, Gøran and I set off for the Iranian border.

But first, of course, the hotel wanted a picture of the Ford in front of the hotel. This on a small street and combined with a truckload of firewood that had just been delivered onto the road resulted in chaos.
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And chaos pretty much describes our exit from Dogubayazit including some off-roading through major road repairs.

But we made the highway, where everyone waved and took videos of the Ford, and about 12 Kms before the border came upon a two-lane wide queue of trucks waiting to enter Iran.

We sailed by and soon entered the Turkish border area - we were the only private vehicles, and with us were two coaches of Iranian tourists.

We got through rapidly until technology struck - 'computer down'. So we sat in the sun for 20 minutes until it came to life again - about time since Gøran was getting tired of him or his Ford being mobbed by the tourists, taking selfies and even lying on the car wings.

I was happy to be out of the limelight but the bus drivers wanted a selfie with the GS
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The gate opened and we were into the Iran transit zone - neither Gøran nor I had used carpets before so we said we would make sure each other's paperwork was in order.

We expected a scrum so were pleasantly surprised to be ushered into a luxurious VIP room, with leather seats, where a charming young woman with excellent English talked to us about Iran while she sent our passports off to be processed.

It seemed to take a long time and she embarrassedly said "computer problems". She gave us good advice on the stages we had to go through
-carnet
-customs inspection
-insurance inspection
And then showing the resulting piece of white paper at the exit. She said we did not need to use a helper.

In fact the carnet process was very straightforward, and the customs inspection non-existent. The staff were more interested in selfies with the Ford and the head of 'carnet' had himself photographed in he driving seat.
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And then we were in Iran! The whole crossing probably took 90 minutes of which 30 minutes was due to computer issues.

We resolved to get petrol as soon as we got going - Gorans Ford gets 20mpg on RS 3.2litre engine whilst I was down to 100km range. We had planned to fill in Turkey but fortunately held on until Iran which has incredibly cheap petrol. ( will try to work it out and post later - rials and Toman are very confusing).

But then a policeman pulled up besides us as we conferred, and said 'you have to come with me'. Oh dear - 2 Kms into Iran and we are already in the sh*t! But one of the compulsory large group who mobbed us whenever we stopped said 'do not worry'.
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We followed the policeman to the barracks whose big gate was ceremoniously opened for us to enter. Then it became a round of hand-shaking and photo taking for all the police (no gave us a good opportunity to use their WC!).

Finally on the road we made good time to Tabriz - the Ford seemed to run happily at 90kmh, and the biggest hazard was all the drivers alongside taking videos!

I stopped occasionally on the way, as I knew I could catch the Ford with little difficulty. I stopped first because I met the 2nd tourist/s since I left Greece 2000 miles ago - these two Dutch guys who had cycled from there and were en route to Bandar Abbas. Respect!
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[For cycling nerds - I am one, too- one of the bikes had a belt rather than a chain and a Rohloff hub gear - really the GS of bicycles!]

My next stop was to admire those camels, already previewed in this blog.
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When we arrived in Tabriz, my GPS was leading us confidently to the hotel I had targeted (Hotel Azarbaijan) - targeted because it had a reasonable review and more importantly even, it was listed on the GPS so I thought I had a chance of finding it.

But once we got to the peripheral road the GPS's view of Tabriz street plan was a little different from reality so we pulled over for a chat. Immediately a man pulled up in a car, with his family, and came to help us. When I asked for directions to Golestan Park he insisted we should follow him. He very generously lead us to the area we needed and (with a couple more escapades and street mob scenes around the Ford) we made it to the hotel.

One young student who had given us directions to a parking garage (for the Ford - my GS lives on the street!) joined us for dinner at our invitation, and told us about life in Tabriz.

When he left us back at the hotel, Gøran tried to offer him a few Toman in thanks for his guiding but he was most offended : 'this is not polite!. So far< I have been bowled over by the friendliness and generosity of the Iranians (or more precisely probably Azarbaijanis since this is Azarbaijan province).

I was also bowled over by something I ate - but that could have been my lunch from a Turkish breakfast buffet, or my Tabriz dinner - I hesitate to assign any blame and in any case I think I am now on the mend.


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A few Tabriz street scenes
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In the covered market
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A traditional Tabriz dish
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A bird in the street
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And that about brings up to today


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There was a time when I'd have given anything for a full luxury flushing toilet on our trip .... but I did acquire a frame to sit on :D

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Good stuff ... keep it coming :thumby:

:beerjug:
 
"I was happy to be out of the limelight but the bus drivers wanted a selfie with the GS" - Simon, isn't it nice to be loved by someone, all that way from home! Thanks for the photos and update - and focus on the bread and not the dates, or you'll never get of the Kharzi!
Sounds like those Dutch guys are going to grab a transit over to Dubai creek and get home from there...
Safe riding (and safe eating, too)....
 
Thanks for the Iranian border info; memo to self- "Pack a 32 ford to facilitate crossing"
 
No worries JPVS but it's the 1930 Model A that seems to do the job. DSC01195.jpg


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Monday

Back on the road again!

After my 30 hours of sleep, I felt well enough to start the day with a cuppa:
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I needed to go to change some Dollars since I am now of necessity operating in a cash world (Iran has credit cards and ATMs but not liked to any foreign banks or providers. So I need to monitor my budget as running out of money is not a good option!

Leaving Tabriz I get lost finding the ring road so pull up and ask three 30ish aged men for direction. They start to explain, then decide it's better if one of them drives me to the correct place on the 'peripherique'. As they discuss this, a big public bus pulls up beside us, so one of the passengers can get out and hand me a map of Tabriz to help me.

Hard not to like Iranians! And in this Kurdish area they are renowned for hospitality.

The guy drives about 5 or 6 Kms wth me following, guiding me to the right road to Sanandaj (I want to avoid the main Teheran road).

I thank him and on my way, to honks and waves from passing motorists including one friendly lady driver.

I admire the fine Kurdish outfits the men wear, and will post a photo or two of this in the next day stage - today I was mainly cruising and keen to reach my destination.

Later I am stopped by police for a routine passport check. They offer me water (I decline, as I am still feeling fragile!) and talk selfies and chat. Then off again.

As I am unsure of my strength, whilst I target Sanandaj, a renowned Kurdish town, I am prepared to stop earlier if I feel the need.

It seems I am traveling along a 'secondary Silk Road' so my imagination works overtime. During the day I refuel twice for prudence, as I use very little fuel because I am running at low speeds and enjoying the scenery, the people's dress, and responding to lots of friendly waves and shouts.

Everywhere the scenery is impressive
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The low fuel consumption is ironic as I have now worked out the petrol price is around 10 Toman/litre, or around 28US cents! And when I was guzzling it crossing Turkey I was paying more like $1.60/litre. Ah well.

I decide to go for the best hotel in town, the Shadi hotel, as I continue my recovery. It's worth the bit extra, despite wifi that keeps logging me off, to have a sit-down loo and a big, comfortable bedroom and balcony.
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The view
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And my apologies if I repeat photos as I am also updating this blog on advrider.com and sometimes I lose the plot completely!

I have now subsisted on a pot of tea, 2 strips of unleavened bread, and some rehydration mix...but it's definitely working and I probably did 350kms or so, comfortably, today. (I have given up monitoring distance now I am in Iran, as it is about seeing things and experiencing the country rather than doing distance. And generally, the slower you ride the more you experience).



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Tuesday
Mooching around...heading South

Before I leave, this gentleman insists his wife takes a picture of us both:

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I decide I had better check that Google got the Farsi for engine oil right:
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And glad I did as the receptionist gives me a different word!

I show it to the guys at the next filling station. They clearly understand what it is but don't have it. I write down 20/50 or 10/40 and the younger one goes to his car and produces a container of Castrol 20/50. He tops up the engine (the oil looks good and clean) and very generously refuses my offer of any money for the oil he gave me.

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After some reading and reflecting I decide to take a trip north west to Palangan. The interesting alternative was to go to up the Howraman valley whose geographic isolation means long standing ways of life continue. However, that abuts the Iraq border and I decided to observe the FCO advised 10km limit.

Beautiful oases amidst dry mountains

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A few snaps on the way and in the village

This fruit seller was keen I took his picture

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Along with his mates

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Halfway there I came across a major traffic jam on this country road. At the centre of the jam there were about 10 sheep which had just had their throat cut (presumably halal butchering?), and I assume all the cars were people coming to buy one. There was no sign of it all on my return trip down the road.

Finding Pelangan took some work, and I ended up doing a few Kms of dirt and gravel road before discovering I had overshot my goal - a winding, tricky road down to this picturesque Kurd village.



Glad I did not take the bike all the way down, as they advised, and walked instead - the bike is rather heavily laden.


Finish the day with delicious chicken soup at my hotel, along with a Coca Cola for medicinal purposes - as recommended to me this morning by one reader of this blog!


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A few photos that did not load last time
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The road I was glad I did not take

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Even better scenes than yesterday (especially for geologists I suspect)

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And who needs booking.com? I pulled in at my destination to look at a map and these guys set themselves to finding me a lodging, calling it and writing me directions there in Farsi script and English!

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Simon, this is wonderful, thanks! Just love the photo of the young boy with a toy kite.....And aren't people, generally, wonderful once you get past the politicians and flag waving? Mostly, they just want to get along and are happy to muck-in. Glad your getting better.
 
Kitsilano
Will PM you as have an idea about your bike search


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Aha, spotted the word 'çay' in the window behind the men. Upon further investigation I see the word, like the British word char, and the beverage, originates from China.

çay is pronounced 'chai' just like in India. I also liked vişne (vishney) which is Turkish for cherry juice.

I was going to ask whether you were seeing a more traditional culture in Iran but I see some of the latest photos have men in non-western garb.
 
çay is pronounced 'chai' just like in India. I also liked vişne (vishney) which is Turkish for cherry juice.

I was going to ask whether you were seeing a more traditional culture in Iran but I see some of the latest photos have men in non-western garb.
Yes, tends to be pronunced "Choi" in Iran. You comment on the possibility of non western garb. Extremely rare in Iran. They are not of Arab descent, and will tell you that forcefully if you ask. In my 2 years there, in the sticks, I never encountered a non western dressed Iranian man. In public, chadors were more or less compulsory for the ladies, but as soon as they were indoors in a private house, it was skinny jeans and all the rest of the western attire.
If our intrepid traveler keeps an open eye whilst on any part of the old Silk Road, he will spot the now long abandoned Karavansaris, where the merchants stopped in safe havens each night. As I recall, they were around 20kms apart. Very little remains of most of them, but if he goes through Kerman, the 1000 year old Bazaar there still has the complete Karavansari within it. When you are in such a place, you are walking in the footsteps of Marco Polo around 900 years later.
Myke
 
Myke
Your intrepid traveller has just arrived in Esfahan, and washed his socks!

But he will add Kerman to the list, as I am heading South and then East after this.


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