Help/advice wanted re a ride in France

batman1

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I'm well aware that there are some very knowledgeable and well travelled Francophiles in this section of the forum, and we could do with your help!

My pillion and me our having a long weekend at this place in September, this will be our second visit to this wonderfully Shabby sheik Chateau and our second time in France. http://www.chateaulemontepinguet.com/

Although the Chateau is sited only 15 miles south of Cherbourg, we are intending to get the ferry from Hull to Zeebrugge and travel across the the north of France like we did last year, with an overnight stop on the way. Last year we had an overnight stop in Honfleur, which was nice.

This year we want to allow ourselves an extra 6/7 days after our weekend to take a longer ride back from the Chateau to Zebrugge and to see and experience a bit more of France.

We are newcomers to touring in France and would welcome some guidance, I see that there are some routes in France already posted, but we haven't got a clue as what or where to start.

We're hoping to sample the delights and sights and feel of the French countyside, villages, chateaus, culture, rivers etc.

Can anyone offer any help?

Some bike friendly B&B's on route would be useful too!
 
Do something different to the ordinary.

Ride the valley of the river Lot from where it meets the river Garonne at Aiguillon, just south of Bordeaux, eastwards all the way to le Blaymard, just past Mende. Two days to get down there, two or three days to ride along and two days to come back.

As French as you like, great scenery, a gorge or two, view points, things to watch on the river, opportunities to loop around, cross a bridge and ride both sides of the U-bends in the river as it snakes along. What's not to like?

All of the hotels will be 'bikermate friendly', whilst the concept of B&B's (in the traditional English sense) doesn't really exist in France.

1265x400xfrance_lot_bb.jpg,qitok=DDDQmTCI.pagespeed.ic.Fo4DFQJoog.jpg


village_1.jpg


Gascony.jpg


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Just Google, river Lot France and click on images.
 
Chateau Pingu! Stayed there a couple of times with a group for a long weekend.

A week long loop from there to Zeebrugge:

South via Forest de la Perche to Blois. 1 night
South to the Auverngne - Le Mont Dore, La Bourboule maybe - 2 nights maybe
South into the Cevennes - Meyrueis, Florac, 2 nights
East over to the Ardeche Gorge 1 night or into Morvan
North to Reims 1 night then easy hop to Zeebrugge for overnight sailing
 
On my last two trips to France last year I got nicked for speeding. Not much over and they didn't pull the car I was following over. Gladly no points but 90EU each time
 
As wapping says all the hotels here are biker friendly

I avoid traditional private hotels as they are generally a bit old and run down

The chain hotels are charmless but clean and you get safe parking

The best bet is chambres d'hôtes (BnB), there are millions of them and they are generally the best value,
I´ve almost never been disappointed and you find some real gems
Bike parking is generally available and froggy hosts are always welcoming

Have a look on TripAdvisor for opinions

Oh yes, check out the http://www.les-plus-beaux-villages-de-france.org/en
You can also download them as POIs on TomTom
 
Hotels are always personal things. I do sometimes use the chains but, more often than not, do try to support private only owned hotels, like those in the Logis network. It's odd perhaps that, when it comes to the UK, UKGSer correspondents urge people to support 'the lilltle man' and private enterprise, avoiding the big faceless corporations. But when it comes to hotels abroad, then it's the reverse. I guess it's rather like fuel in the UK when we are told - assured, even - that supermarket fuel is inferior in every regard, yet abroad the sight of a supermarket and its fuel pumps are often looked at as a bountiful oasis is a barren land.
 
Batman1, wherever you go on your jaunt, you'll probably be covering quite a large distance across a big country. My only tip would be to try to keep it simple on your first trip. That is not to suggest that it's not fun, I'd just try to avoid a mass of left, right, left, right, right changes in direction down every D road you can find. Why? Because you'll probably find it will take you longer than you think.

For example, Cherbourg where you are starting from to near enough Bordeaux, where my simple suggestion of following the Lot river starts is 700 kms (direct via the fastest routes) call that 440 miles. To put that distance into perspective, Lincoln to Penzance is 350 miles, whilst it's 410 miles from Lincoln to Aberdeen, so still 30 miles short. Then consider that somewhere during your seven day jaunt you (or your long suffering pillion) might like a day off the bike, or a long lie in one day or a full afternoon just picnicking by a river. You have now lost a full day's riding distance or at least half a day, but hey, it's a holiday, too. Just ask yourself if you were riding to Aberdeen would you necessarily set off to do it in a day, starting at 10 AM and finishing at 15:30 and, if you did, would you set off taking every small road you could find?

A very good map to get, is Michelin's 726 map:

New_726.jpg


I cannot recommend it highly enough. Why? Because it is designed for exactly the sort of trip you might be making. It strips out all of the minor detail, leaving just the main towns, major roads and.... most importantly.... Michelin's suggested Bis 'Tourist routes' (coloured green) designed to take travellers from A to D via B and C, reasonably smoothly but not hurtling down every motorway. Are they always, "Great roads, mate"? No, but they are certainly not all bad either. We hear lots of advice on this and other sites about simply following the yellow D roads that Michelin have designated 'scenic' on their other maps by lining them in green. Yes, they are often very nice but are not always a great way to go four hundred and fifty odd miles (in perhaps a day, in an extreme example) from Cherbourg to Bordeaux in order to reach the river Lot, to start the main bit of your holiday, if you have never done it before.

I don't want to make it sound awfully dramatic or some epic jaunt. It isn't. People of all sorts and ages, on bicycles, to motorbikes, to cars to vans to trucks have bumbled and bimbled and hooned across and through France for years, arguably since the Romans. It's easy to do, I promise you. Just think about it a little, that's all. For instance, there is a good chance that someone in this thread might recommend you stop to visit Oradour-sur-Glane and / or see the Millau Viaduct. Both are very worthy suggestions but will take time, say maybe half a day each by the time you've finished. That's fine but then look at a map and see that from one 'must do' site to the other (direct) is 340 kms or 210 miles, useless if you need by then to be hurtling your way to your ferry in the opposite direction as its loading doors are closing.

I have come up with a suggestion, Wessie has too with a good idea. Others will for sure, as you have lots of time. That's great but maybe inevitable, not least as you have seven days and France is a huge, very varied area. You could, if you wanted, spend all your time bimbling around Brittany and Normandy on the D roads, see the WW2 sites (if that's your - and your pilion's - thing) and still do all the D roads near enough back to your ferry and home. That would still be good but you'd not come within several hundred miles of Oradour or Millau or the river Lot. That wouldn't matter as all three will still be there next year; let's hope we all are, too.

My last suggestion might be to have a look at RiDE magazine's website and their pre-made touring holidays, which sometimes start from the Channel ports. They are pretty good, not least as they are often broken down into reasonably well thought out daily mileages. Yes, before anyone says it, they are a compromise and, yes, it's possible to ride 500 or even 1000 miles in a day for nearly 20 days on the bounce if you want to. But that's not the point of the magazine's suggestions nor their compromises to cater for all sorts of riders, of all sorts of abilities, on all sorts of bikes. Just because a bod rides a GSA with TT panniers, stickers and a one litre plastic jerrycann of fuel (to top-up the 33 litres of fuel he's already carrying, to get him that extra 10 miles to his bikermate safe B&B, where they speak English and do bacon and eggs, none of that foreign shite, mate) doesn't mean that he goes miles and it certainly doesn't mean that he doesn't agonise over whether the hotelier is going to be friendly or whether his awesome steed will be safe at night out on the street in some village hamlet. Similarly, the bod on the outright sports Ducati, who's ridden all the way from Finland to the river Lot, is not necessarily some motorway bashing, "50 miles and I have to stop cos me arse and wrists is killing me, mate" nancy, either.

Here's RiDE's very good ideas for France:

http://www.ride.co.uk/routes-1/the-ride-guide-to-france

Or see if there might be some ideas to adopt and adapt in:

http://www.ride.co.uk/magazine-routes/routes-from-ride-magazine
 
For a first-timer to France, ny one piece of advice is this: France is a bloody big country and, as such, map scales are rarely the same as on UK road maps. Therefore, do NOt just look at the map and think that a ride from A to B is easily doable, as you will be surprised by how far it actually is. Do not be overly ambitious. France is a great place to visit: roads are typically less crowded and the holiday will start as soon as you come off the ferry as it is very un-British
 
For a first-timer to France, ny one piece of advice is this: France is a bloody big country and, as such, map scales are rarely the same as on UK road maps. Therefore, do NOt just look at the map and think that a ride from A to B is easily doable, as you will be surprised by how far it actually is. Do not be overly ambitious. France is a great place to visit: roads are typically less crowded and the holiday will start as soon as you come off the ferry as it is very un-British

Excellent advice, very true
 
All good advice to which I can't really add much (especially as Wapping has kindly plugged the RiDE site for me). What I'd add is...

The suggestion of going via Blois is excellent - though last time I went, I stopped a few miles away at Amboise, which is a bit smaller (Hotel La Breche). Allow time to visit one of the amazing Loire chateau (my personal favourite is Chenonceau, though Amboise, Chambord, Usse and Chaumont sur Loire are all stunning - and all are close to Blois and Amboise). But a visit isn't ten minutes: two, three or four hours, more like. So don't bank on a big-mile day after visiting one.

Wapping's on the money with recommending Lot et Garonne - it's a fabulous region and there are loads of really characterful, well-preserved villages to visit (try Issigeac and Monflanquin). It is a fair way south, though. The Perigord and Correze regions of the Limousin in the centre of France are a bit closer, if you're keeping mileages down/spending a fair bit of time off the bike looking at stuff. From there it's dead easy to loop back to Rotterdam through the Auvergne and into the Morvan (two great suggestions) and across Champagne to the Ardennes.

If you are going south to the Lot, then it is definitely worth coming back through Millau and the Tarn gorges, then head up through the Velay to the Morvan and Champagne.

The secret is to work out which towns or sites you want to visit, then break your journey up between them - if you can do it all without motorway, great. If you decide that a little tactical motorway to cover the mileage will help you get to places you otherwise might miss, try to put your motorway at the start or end of the route (or both) so you get it out of the way early or just sit back on it at the end of the day when you're tired, while in the middle of the day you get to enjoy the best roads in the best of the sunshine. But as everyone has said, France is a huge country. Don't believe the Google Maps estimates for how long it takes to ride a route.
 
Phew!
Thanks you so much for all of your efforts guys, and Wapping, well you have gone much more than the extra mile with your almost epic and detailed response, this amount of effort was not expected, BUT it's very much appreciated.
I have ordered Michelin 712 the map which should arrive in a couple of days and I'll take a look at the Ride mag routes in detail later.

Thanks Paul, both yourself and Wapping have given caution as to being aware of the size of the country, this is taken on board, and to be honest I'm hoping that Roz and me will become budding Francophiles over the next decade, we have no wish to do it all this year, a chunk at a time will suit us just fine, this needs to be the beginning of a great adventure that takes us into old age and not just one trip.

Leadfarmer and Simon, thanks for concurring with Wapping and also adding in some more places and accommodation that we can look-up, I've just had a quick peek at the Loire Château, it is magnifique!

Giles, so that's what you look like!
That’s a great photo write-up, what time of the year was your ride, you mention 5 degrees temp in the morning and it looks as though Rosy is holding a purple crocus, so was late spring early summer? Also pleased to see that you found the time to shoot the wildlife, that looks like an Eagle overhead. I love birds of prey.

I wonder? Did you pre-book your accommodation or just start looking when you'd had enough of riding.

Apart from living in France, has anyone got any recommendations for a good French language tutorial?
I’m told that the French appreciate a tourist who will at least make an effort to speak their language.
 
Good stuff!

Much beyond being able to count to ten, say goodbye, good morning, order a beer and ask for a room, I really wouldn't worry too much about talking French. It's the limit of my German and I've survived; some will say it's the limit of my French, too.

If the Lot is maybe too far south, you could do something similar along the Loire, perhaps by taking the motorway south as far as Le Mans or Tours. I'd accept a morning doing that, in exchange for knocking off the distance down the Cherbourg peninsula. It's where your 726 map will come in handy, I'm sure. I don't have it in front of me but from memory you'll see that the green Bis 'Tourist' routes start from south of a line Le Mans in the west > Troyes in the east. You'll also see how it's often possible to jump onto a motorway to speed up a part of a journey, if required. See Simon W's comments along the same lines.

I'd also consider staying in the north-west corner of France, Britanny and Normandy. The scenery is very different but it's definitely still France, without a doubt. You could take in the big yacht sailing harbours on the Atlantic, the standing stones, the narrow bocarge hedges and lanes, Mont St Michel, cider..... Then take maybe two days to come back to your return ferry. You'll need another Michelin map to do that.

One thought, if you have a GPS device, have a look at the Michelin regional routes stickies. These are mostly circular and sometimes quite long, centered on a town or small city. You could decide on which ones you like and / or join some up, perhaps?
 
Phew!
Apart from living in France, has anyone got any recommendations for a good French language tutorial?
I’m told that the French appreciate a tourist who will at least make an effort to speak their language.

If you did any French at school you'll be amazed how much comes back that you didn't know you knew !
If not, most of the French are happy to show off their english skills so if you just start with Bonjour rather than Hello the rest should be fine :)
 
I know it could be seen as the lazy cop out, but people who work in the French hospitality industry generally have enough English to make life straight forward for the likes of us. They often seem to employ students during the summer with good language skills.
But being able to use the usual polite lubricating words - bonjour, au revoir, s'il vous plait and merci will go a very long way.
About distances .... France is a really lovely country stuffed full of interesting towns and villages. It really is worth taking life slowly and exploring a bit. Maybe stopping a couple of nights in a place like Troyes or Compiegne and having a good look around.
What ever you do, you just can't lose.
 
Main words to learn are the foods you dislike and how to ask for a steak cooked how you like it
 
If you did any French at school you'll be amazed how much comes back that you didn't know you knew !
If not, most of the French are happy to show off their english skills so if you just start with Bonjour rather than Hello the rest should be fine :)

Ha Ha...Thanks leadfarmer, but my Secondary School struggled to teach me English, we didn't even have French mustard!
However there does seem to be an abundance of free and low priced French language courses available on the net, so I am going to try and make a bit of an effort. Thankfully 'beer' seems to be universally understood around the world, so that's one important word I'll have no need to practice.

:beerjug:
 
Wapping said:
..........One thought, if you have a GPS device, have a look at the Michelin regional routes stickies. These are mostly circular and sometimes quite long, centered on a town or small city. You could decide on which ones you like and / or join some up, perhaps?

I do have a nav5 fitted to my steed which is a GS-LC, so destinations shouldn't be too much of a problem and although brilliant for getting me to my destination, I will have a map. I find that a map is great for giving me a feel of where I am.
The Brittanny corner might be something to think about, but you have already suggested some irresistible places to see further south which have already wetted my appetite, however we could do those next season......I'm sure that this trip will just evolve over the next few months with information collated from you guys on here and the stuff you have pointed me towards to read.
 


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