LED bulbs

Well the it's fucked demons have visited again... :mad:

The thread on the plastic adjuster is stripped no wonder is wasnt moving!!!

Tried removing the glass, but its double bonded,and i cant get to the rear

layer of bonding

Just trying to go in from underneath, and add an M4 nut to the adjuster to

stop it pulling through, then seeing if i can add a washer and nut at the other

end

But not a lot of threaded bar to do that though

oh fuckity fuck :)
 
Well is sort of back together :(

Now the reflector has popped of its gimbal thing, i drilled a hole underneath,

but cant see where the thing is meant to clip back on ....

Cant bring the reflector down, because as soon as there is any pressure applied

from the spring, the the plastic part just slides down the thread :(

The only other option i can see is to either put a nut on the end with some thread lock and see of i have enough at the other end to fashion an adjuster

Or i get some M4 bar and do the same...

or loop a cable tie through it and adjust it down and hope for the best at the MOT

Or spend more money lol on a headlight :eek:
 
Mine looks like it had the same failure. The adjuster has been worked on. I can get the beams just about low enough but only just.
The best repair is probably to choose your spot carefully then cut a 2" hole in the back. Fix the broken parts then stick it back with car body grade polyurethane sealant.
 
Well ive got the ball / socket adjuster fixed :), but the nut assy bit is fubarred :(

im going to see if i can mod the current adjuster with some nuts and washers

or get some M4 bar and make a new adjuster
 
Right,

After sleeping on this, the options were as follows

Fix what was currently in place,

difficult as i would need to get a captive nut on the back of the adjustor's


Or make a new adjuster using m4 / M5 threaded bar and locknut's , again difficult but possible.

In the end the solution came via B&Q of all places.. looking for m4 nuts, i came across M4 wing-nuts..

Light bulb moment, if i turned a wing-nut the wrong way round, and reshaped a wing, it would bite into the back of the plastic bracket and become a captive nut.

30 minutes of reshaping and bluetack on screwdrivers . its in on and

Working :)

now to reassemble and set the beam ..

I'm starting fully down and left, and will hook the power lead up to a battery

direct, that way i can take my time doing the set

fingers crossed


Mart
 
Mine has a repaired height adjuster I suspect it's not allowing the full movement. So I'm struggling to avoid dazzling other people.
 
Update. I've adjusted it as low as it will go and all appears to be well. I might pack the grommet peg to tilt the lamp a little lower.
But the issue is caused by the repaired adjuster.
 
OK results from last night.

To make things more - stable lol

I put the bike on the centre stand, and

ran a cable from the dip beam to a car

battery to allow me as much time as i

needed, and popped in an old halogen

bulb.

This is the result i got after after a few

minutes playing with the halogen





And then closer in




Dropped the bike off the main stand, and everything dropped by a few inches.

The left kick is past the centreline point, and the dip beam as near as is in the

allowed range.

Now i have a start point, i will see what the leds look like.

Need to mod my connectors again to do a direct battery feed,

So it can wait for a few days ;)
 
Rubber glove method work well for a while, but as you can see, the old marygolds dont last long
P1020993.jpg


Got the 60mm blanking grommets. Looks neat.
P1020995.jpg


Strangely I have had no issue with directing the dip beam. It adjusted down to number plate level with no adjuster or clearance issues.

Full beam is still crap. Lights up the gantry signs on the motorway perfectly. Not the road ahead.

Spot lamps on order.
 
Rubber glove method work well for a while, but as you can see, the old marygolds dont last long
P1020993.jpg


Got the 60mm blanking grommets. Looks neat.
P1020995.jpg


Strangely I have had no issue with directing the dip beam. It adjusted down to number plate level with no adjuster or clearance issues.

Full beam is still crap. Lights up the gantry signs on the motorway perfectly. Not the road ahead.

Spot lamps on order.

You got way better grommets than me then. the back of the grommets on mine were like fag paper.

I also think i may need to wind my heatsinks a bit further....

MOT on saturday, so ill see how we fare

Mart
 
Rubber glove method work well for a while, but as you can see, the old marygolds dont last long
P1020993.jpg


Got the 60mm blanking grommets. Looks neat.
P1020995.jpg


Strangely I have had no issue with directing the dip beam. It adjusted down to number plate level with no adjuster or clearance issues.

Full beam is still crap. Lights up the gantry signs on the motorway perfectly. Not the road ahead.

Spot lamps on order.

Where did you get this grommets? All I could find needed to go over the outside of the cover so they flipped off the GS headlamp case.

On mine, the main beam is a fixed height separation from dipped set to light the middle distance but really not far enough down the road. If yours is lighting the tree tops you might have a bulb not properly seated.
 
I am getting a blown bulb warning light now. Just came on this week.
I cant figure out why. Or how to get rid of the warning.

All LEDs and bulbs light up as normal.

Any suggestions?
 
I am getting a blown bulb warning light now. Just came on this week.
I cant figure out why. Or how to get rid of the warning.

All LEDs and bulbs light up as normal.

Any suggestions?

Try the little parking bulb in your front light cluster.
 
yeah. Its working also. Just wondering is there a reset. Like pulling the battery.

Maybe its stored in the bikes memory? I dunno.
 
Is it "lampf" or "lampr"

Have you led rear lamp or conventional bulbs?

Sent from a U11
 
LampF can meaneither front or rear ...

Check your rear tail / stop bulb ...

One filament will have blown ...

Clever Can dims the reamining filament by 50% and then on application of the brake will give 100%

Caught me out the first time, i changed the front pair lol

although why they dont just use a single filament tail is beyond me :)
 
LampF can meaneither front or rear ...

Check your rear tail / stop bulb ...

One filament will have blown ...

Clever Can dims the reamining filament by 50% and then on application of the brake will give 100%

Caught me out the first time, i changed the front pair lol

although why they dont just use a single filament tail is beyond me :)

this way you get two bites of the cherry.
 
That is clever.

Will give it a go. I did not see Lampf or R . Its a 2004 bike.

Next step it to probably change all bulbs before I do anything
 
this way you get two bites of the cherry.

Tell me about it 5:30am mid january, and i'm changing bulbs because i think lampf means front bulb failure lol, and need to go to work

turns out its typical German efficiancy lamp(F)ailure !

And it was the rear haha
 


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