Vietnam: more than just Migs and Skyraiders

SteveJ

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Every so often I like to put myself outside of my European comfort zone. In the autumn of 2016 I decided that Vietnam would fit the bill. Being in my mid-50s, I, like many others of that certain age, were brought-up in an era of American-made Vietnam war movies such as Platoon, Apocolyse Now, Full Metal Jacket and the like; all of which made the US look like the victors. Initially the aim of my trip was to visit some of the iconic place-names which history put on the world map, Khe Sanh, Saigon and Hamburger Hill to name but a few. My itinerary was starting to look more of a battlefield tour than a holiday.

Leaving behind the onset of a UK winter for warmer climes is a pleasant thought which always fills me with joy, so this more than compensated for the 15-hour flight from Cardiff to Hanoi (via Amsterdam and Kuala Lumpur). Within a few days of landing in a sunny, 25.c Hanoi I'd managed to rent an XR400 (with an electric start:D) from Phung's Motor Cycles. Finding a motor bike to rent in Hanoi, the city of a million mopeds, is a bit like buying veg at your local supermarket, you're spoiled for choice; though most are around the 125/250cc mark. The XR400 is considered a big bike in Vietnam.

Hanoi is a city steeped in history. The base of the Communist-backed North Vietnam government during the American war, it received much attention from B-52 bombers, but still holds some striking architecture from its past, both from its pre and post French colonialism days. Talking of B-52s, there is even the remains of one in a lake near the city centre, part of its fuselage visible above the water. There are a host of museums to browse and parks to stroll through. Without 'wheels' navigating the city is best done on the back of an Xe om (motor bike taxi); Xe om literally means 'bike hug' and can be found on every street corner. Top-tip: agree a price before you hop on the back. It's also a great way to gradually introduce yourself to Vietnamese road users and their habits. Don't be surprised to see whole families, including 'babes in arms' mounted on a C90. There is hardly any car traffic in Hanoi, so you won't see any traffic jams.

Week 1. Hanoi to Sapa
Leaving the chaos of the Hanoi traffic and it's 7 million inhabitants, the roads took me north out to the suburbs and eventually to the countryside. Being Welsh I usually associate mountains and green landscapes with rain and my pre-packed orange survival cape did a good job of keeping me dry. NW Vietnam has spectacular scenery, but there is a price to pay; even in the so-called 'dry season' it is prone to rain and low cloud. My route to Sapa took me via the Khau Pha Pass. I did manage to see the lower area of the Pass near Tu Le, but as the road gained altitude, the cloud base lowered. This only lasted for an hour or so, before I re-entered the land of blue skies. Sapa is a tourist trap, where most people come to see the surrounding terraced paddy fields, waterfalls and high peaks. They take the over-night train to Lao Cai on the Chinese boarder and get 'bused in' to this mountain-top town. By the time I'd reached Sapa, a 3 day ride from Hanoi, I'd been bowled-over by the shear beauty which unfolded itself around me. Something that the sleeper-train tourists could never see. The local Muong people, more-so the women, dress in vivid blue clothes and always have a welcoming smile on their faces.
Sapa sits at 5,000' above sea level, and my over-riding memory of Sapa is of sleeping in a hotel room, inside my sleeping bag, fully clothed...and still feeling cold. Mount Phanxipang, Vietnam's highest peak, is only a few kms away and rises to 10,000' ASL.
With the Chinese boarder only an hour's ride away, I couldn't resist the short ride and enjoyed a spot of people watching at the boarder post for almost an hour. As with most boarder crossings it was a busy place, with much of the commodities arriving into Vietnam stacked 6' high x 6' wide on bicycles with extended handle bars. The massive and mysterious country of China was just a stone's throw away.

Vietnam fact file:
A visa is required for entry into Vietnam. I bought a 3-month visa (<£100>) as I didn't want to rush my trip with only a 1-month visa. There is an option to obtain your visa 'on arrival', but after a 15 hr flight, all I wanted was a hotel room.

Currency is the Vietnam Dong (VND) £1= <30,000> Dong. So lots of maths involved here ! When I travelled (Nov 2016) You could only obtain Dong inside Vietnam, so you'll need to get some cash from an airport ATM before you step outside. ATM charges vary, I found Agribank ATMs offered one of the lowest rates (70p per transaction). Your card provider may also charge; hence I obtained a Caxton FX card in the UK. Great card, no ATM fees, but your exchange rate maybe slightly lower.
Some places in Vietnam, ironically, accept US Dollars in cash.

Rules of the road: In Vietnam there are no rules:eek: Most drive on the right. Beware of on-coming lorries and mini buses which have a total and unhealthy dis-regard for whether you have right of way or not. If you adopt the mind-set of 'bikes are the bottom of the food chain', you'll have a good chance of surviving your trip !

Bikes of burden: Throughout my six-week trip it never ceased to amaze me as to what loads the Vietnamese carried on the back of their mopeds. From dead buffalo to fridge-freezers. Like most things you see in Vietnam, it has to be seen to be believed.

City traffic:
In the western world we get use to traffic stopping for pedestrians. In Vietnam, and especially Hanoi, the traffic is continuously moving, bar for an odd traffic light. Crossing a busy city street is a leap of faith. You have to keep your eye on the on-coming traffic, but they will avoid you....most of the time. A bit like jumping into a shoal of fish, they will all go around you. Remember, no sudden movements, the road users, 90% motorbikes, will go around you.

Use of the horn:
Vietnamese like using their horns, but do so in a friendly way. While us 'westerners' use it mostly as a form of aggression, the Vietnamese 'beep' is more of a friendly 'I'm here, be careful' gesture.

.........to be continued
 

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Vietnam: more than just Migs and Skyraiders (part2)

Week 2: Sapa to Dong Ha (17th Parallel)
Acclimatising to both the Vietnamese weather and its roads, my journey could now only take me south from the Chinese boarder. Back-tracking to the town of Than Uyen I then headed west towards Dien Bien Phu on the QL279. The main roads in rural Vietnam carry the prefix QL (Quoc Lo meaning Highway) and are single carriageway, tarmac roads. Now and again the tarmac will disappear into a muddy mess due to either a natural landslip, or construction work. Add some local rainfall and suddenly your off-roading for anything up to 10 kms at a time. In Vietnam the actual texture of the road surfaces can change within 100 yards and you can also expect a one-ton water buffalo to wander into your path at anytime. Riding in these conditions it's no wonder that an average six-hours in the saddle each day results in only about 160 kms (100 miles). If you travel any faster than 50 km per hour, either you'll kill something, or something will kill you :eek:
Looking at the scenery is another problem; even at 50 Kms per hour it's deadly. The scenery in this NW corner of Vietnam is stunning and changes around every corner.

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A section of roadway under repair NW Vietnam. A chance to go off-piste ?

A few hours from Dien Bien Phu (DBP) I spot a couple of 'westerners' taking a road-side break and quite rightly so. Andy and Laura from Scotland are travelling two-up (plus all their gear) on a rather small-looking 110 cc moped. It was strange to speak English to someone after nearly two weeks on the road in a country where very few people outside of big cities spoke the language. DBP was put on the history map in 1954, when after nearly 100 years of ruling Vietnam, the French lost a decisive battle here. This never resulted in the unified Vietnam which its leader, Ho Chi Minh, had hoped, only the North/South division which later lead to the US invasion.
DBP is well off the western tourist trail, but being only a few kms from the Loas boarder further west, it makes a convenient entry point into Vietnam for young back-packers doing the Asia circuit. The city has an open air trench museum located in the 1954 French defensive position of Hill A1 'Elian II' with various bits of 'hardware'. Poignantly, at the bottom of the hill is the vast Vietnamese cemetery where many of its countrymen (and women) who fell during the battle are buried. It's well maintained and is a peaceful place to reflect on the true cost of freedom here. Like most Vietnamese cities it has a bustling market which attracts crowds of people.

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View above the city of Dien Bien Phu

If the Quoc Lo are the single carriageway tarmac roads of Vietnam, then the TL are the Tinh Lo (District roads), a lower grade of road. From DBP I followed, after I eventually found its junction with the main road, the TL130 to Son La. This follows the course of the Son Ma river close to the Loas border and is 1/3 tarmac, 1/3 dirt track & 1/3 concrete. I had no road map on my Vietnam trip; road signage in Vietnam is very poor if not non-existent any how. Most evenings I would consult 'Google maps' on a hotel PC and jot down towns on my route. Though deemed 'old fashioned' in this age of mobile phone apps, it did allow my to engage with the local people a lot more. The TL130 was an even slower road than the usual QL, but more rewarding in the people I met along its route and the scenery. Crossing a rather, ropey (literally !) suspension bridge at Son Ma I managed to find the city of Son La just as dusk was falling. After a 10-hour day I'd clocked up 200 kms, but it was worth every minute.

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A section of the TL130

Feeling a tad tired after the previous day's off-roading on the TL130, I was greatful of the super-smooth tarmac of the QL6 which took me down to Mai Chau. With sweeping, wide, high alpine roads I could easily have mistaken it for the Spanish Pyrenees. Arriving at Mai Chau after an easy 150 kms, I braced myself for another encounter with western tourists. For here is an eco-village well and truly placed on the holiday brochures of Vietnam. I paused for an hour at a local hotel sipping iced-Vietnamese coffee on it's 6th floor cafe admiring the surrounding rice paddied-meadows and pondering what I would find here. I was pleasantly surprised when I did arrive at the 'village'. After passing a mass of passenger coaches parked at the entrance, I rode the XR through the maze of footpaths which criss-cross the eco-village and stopped at one of the stilted, bamboo houses to stay the night. The Mai Chau eco-village is an oasis of tranquility. Despite having over 100 people as neighbours, the village is spread out over such a vast area that it gives an air of rural peacefulness.

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Bikes of burden.

Vietnam fact file:
Vietnam numbers
1. Mot
2. Hai (Pronounced: Hi)
3. Ba
4. Bom
5. Nam
While travelling you'll see younger folk 'saluting' you with a two-fingered 'V' for victory gesture (the other way around means something totally different, of course). This 'V' for victory means 'Hi' (Hello), derived from the Vietnamese word for two - Hai.

Road types
AH1 (Asia Highway 1) = Dual carriage way #1
QL32 (Quoc Lo 32) = Main road #32 (similar to a UK 'A' road
TL 130 (Tinh Lo 130) = District road #130 (similar to a UK 'B' road)

Coffee
Italian style coffee machines are rare outside of cities or tourist traps. The local Vietnamese coffees are small in quantity of liquid-served, but have an acquired taste, which after a while becomes addictive; yum,yum. One type of coffee bean has a nodule attached to it, too labour-intensive for a human to remove, so in the refining process it's ingested by a weasel. The bean is passed 'through' the weasel and comes out in its faeces and is then ground to make the coffee...after being washed, of course. When it goes on the shelves the bagged-up coffee usually has a weasel depicted somewhere on the front ! Watch out for it, it is actually considered a top-quality coffee.

............to be continued.
 

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Vietnam: more than just Migs and Skyraiders (part 3)

Mai Chau with its tranquility and Italian coffee machines was hard to leave, but leave I had to. Picking up the QL15 it was south all the way. At mid afternoon I stumbled across my first serious road traffic accident; two lorries head-on. Not a pretty sight, but inevitable when you consider the gun-ho way buses and trucks travel here. No fire service, just locals with bamboo poles to lever the cabs open. The following day I reached Pho Chau; an important junction into the Ho Chi Minh Trail (HCMT) in Loas, which supplied the North Vietnamese Army (NVA) and Viet Cong (VC) in their battles in the south of Vietnam. The only remnant I could find was a stone commemorative tablet at a road junction just outside the town. Dong Loc is a few Kms to the east, another important truck route connecting Vietnam to the HCMT. A total of 48,000 US bombs of all size were dropped on Dong Loc and many of the craters are still evident amongst the many memorials and shrines to the road labourers who kept this supply route open. One such memorial is to a group of 10 young women killed while taking refuge in an air raid shelter. At Dong Loc I witnessed a kind act by a visiting Korean tourist. Hunched on the step below one memorial was an elderly lady of 80+ years, her head hung between her spindly legs sheltering from the sun. One of the Koreans came down and offered her some water and food, which she gladly accepted. I wondered if this lady was a local begger, or a veteran road worker from the 1960s; not that her reason for begging mattered. I felt slightly embarrassed that I had not offered her anything myself, even though she was over 100 yards away.

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A stilted guest house at Mai Chau eco village.


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A monument depicting the heavy bombing at the Dong Loc road junction

Towards the end of the week I reached Dong Ha, a city just south of the 17th Parallel. I had crossed the Ben Hai River and into the former South Vietnam.
There is much to see around the 17th Parallel, the former dividing line between North & South Vietnam. The Old Hien Luong bridge is probably the centre piece. There is even a white line depicting the actual centre of the bridge/17th Parallel. On the southern end stands a memorial in the form of a sculpture of a mother and daughter looking north across the river, backed with tall coconut palms; an emblem of southern Vietnam. On the northern side is a huge dome with a mast flying a giant Vietnamese flag and a museum. Also worth a visit are the Vinh Moc tunnels; used during the American war by locals as air raid shelters. Numerous US artillery fire bases; I even found an abandoned US tank at one, and the Truong Son (HCMT) National Cemetery with over 20,000 headstones are also interesting locations to visit. All this in what was suppose to be a demilitarized zone during the American war.
While visiting the National Cemetery on a rainy day, I discovered that my wallet & mobile phone were missing from my waist-mounted bum-bag:eek: A tense hour or so followed during which time I back-tracked to where I had last bought something; a coconut drink, about 30 kms away. The rain became heavier and I was travelling on the wrong side of the road, be it at a snail's pace, scanning the verge for my absent wallet. It didn't help that it was school closing time with loads of children walking the same route. Image my relief when wondering around the undergrowth of one of the old fire bases I had visited and finding my opened wallet; phew. Without cash, bar for a few US Dollars in my dry-bag, my Caxton/credit cards and not being able to speak the local lingo I would have been stuffed. I realised the cause had been a faulty zip on the bum-bag and my trusty orange cape did a great job of obscuring my view of the opened bag. I also reflected on how paranoid and suspicious I had become of anybody in a group laughing at the roadside; as if they had just found a well-loaded wallet.

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A map showing the area around the 17th Parallel. The Ben Hai river (centre)
marks the boarder between the former North and South Vietnam.

The following day, as well as checking my bum-bag every 10 minutes, I visited Khe Sanh, the site of a former US hill-top air base, famous for being surrounded by NVA & VC troops for nearly four months; the garrison's only life-line being air-dropped supplies. After the war it was found that the whole siege was a rouse to detract the US military away from the NVA's real targets of South Vietnamese cities during the 1968 Tet Offensive; it worked. The airfield today is a haven of peace, far from the 'hellish' film footage you'll see from 1968. There is a museum and a few pieces of 'hardware' including a C-130 Hercules and a Huey helicopter; two workhorses that kept the base supplied during its darkest hour. On a lighter note I was pestered by two local metal detectorists trying to sell me some of their finds, each knocking down the other's price; I felt as if I had involuntarily become involved in an auction, but with the detectorists doing the bidding, which was always downward. One fact which I learned from them was that each year scores of Vietnamese detectorists are killed due to previously uncleared ordnance.

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How the average Vietnamese family commute. Note the
'V' Hai/Hi greeting

Vietnam fact file:
Never veer too far of the main tracks in Vietnam. Even today hundreds of Vietnamese citizens, mainly young children, are maimed or killed by uncleared ordnance.

Museums:
Museum entry fees are minimal. Even in the cities expect to pay around 20,000 VND (70p). Most American war-related museums use harsh terms and captions when depicting the US invasion. eg A bayonet used by US Imperialists to stab women and children. They also use uncensored images, which can be shocking to the unsuspecting visitor.

Motorbike breakdowns:
In Vietnam you are never more than a km or so from someone who can repair your bike. Repairs are also inexpensive. I had a chain snap on the XR, too slack perhaps. Within the space of 30 minutes I'd found a mechanic who repaired the damage, leaving his hands very greasy, and was on my way again; price 20,000 VND (70p). I had a clutch cable replaced for a similar price. Mechanics are very adept at improvising things out here; I guess they have to be, especially in the more remote areas.

Accommodation:
In a city expect to pay 300,000 VND (£11) for a 3 star hotel. Around 500,000 VND (£18) in Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon). The standard of which is usually very high. You can pay as little as 100,000 VND (£4), as I did one night when I had limited choice and woke up to find an opened condom wrapper under the pillow....strange, I never recalled anyone visiting during the night:) Left behind by a previous occupier/'lady of the night' maybe.
Which leads me to prostitution. There is much of this old trade in Vietnam. If you stay in a tourist trap, as a lone male expect to be approached by a pimp offering you a 'lady girl' for the night. If you decline, his next offer will probably be of marijuana.

...............to be continued.
 

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Excellent ride report - really enjoying it and thanks for posting! :beerjug:
 
More than just Migs and Skyraiders (part 4)

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Mother & daughter sculpture, 17th Parallel, near Dong Ha. The blade-like structures in the background are representative of coconut palms; an emblem of the former south. The sculpture faces north over-looking the Ben Hai river into the former North Vietnam

Week 3: Dong Ha to Hoi An
Crossing the Dekrong bridge and riding all afternoon through some heavy showers the road brought me to my next destination, Ap Bia mountain, aka Hamburger Hill (HH), at about 4pm. It took another hour, again due to poor road signage, to locate the base of the mountain where I camped under my tarp and mossie net; no hotels in this remote boarder area. I'd never camped in a jungle and was soon listening to the deafening sound of tree frogs and other strange insects; the noise only pausing during heavy downpours. Dawn saw me initially rocketing up the steps which help the visitor climb this steep mountain. In May 1969 American troops had assaulted the mountain along this very route. With two litres of water in my Camel-bak I thought I was well prepared, but I'd not eaten since the previous afternoon. Along the track to the summit are direction signs to various places of interest, but I never did find the crashed helicopter. I did however locate some 'enemy' (US Army) fox holes. Strangely enough, a few month previous I'd visited fox holes in the Bois Jacques in the Ardennes, dug by the US 506th Parachute Infantry Regiment of 'Band of Brothers' fame. In May 1969, the 506th had taken part in the HH assault and could possibly have been in these same fox holes.

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A misty dawn along the track up to Hamburger Hill.

The fox holes were only 50 yards off the main track, but on turning around a few times I soon became disorientated among the tightly-packed trees and undergrowth of the jungle. Thankfully, after what seemed like an age, I regained the main track to the summit. At this point I was a 'bath of sweat' from head to toe and had consumed all my water. At the summit is a shrine dedicated to the Vietnamese who lost their lives on the hill. After 'taking' the hill the Americans abandoned it a short time later and it was re-occupied by the North Vietnamese Army(NVA)/Viet Cong(VC).
Also on the summit was a directional sign to a helicopter landing strip which I foolishly followed. After covering approx. 2 kms (the sign stated 1km) I gave-up and started back tracking along the slippery clay track. Due to the steep gradients involved, my body was starting to show symptoms of dehydration and lack of food didn't help my condition. Felling light-headed I was beginning to doubt my navigation; was I on the right track :confused: I was now well and truly in survival mode, with thoughts of a 'granpa down' scenario. Checking for my outbound footprints in the clay footpath confirmed I was indeed on the correct route. Soon the summit shrine came into view, but sat beside it was a uniformed boarder policeman......in flip-flops. From his face and posture I could tell I was in trouble. Apparently, due to its proximity to the Laos boarder, and even though there was tourist type interpretation signage on the track, it was a forbidden zone.
Exchanging only sign language, he prompted me for my passport then escorted me back down the jungle-covered mountain and then a further 10kms to the main road. At this point I had to talk myself into not passing-out while riding the XR; the route back to the main road seemed endless. At the first opportunity I pulled over and bought some coke (Coca cola that is, lol). Something I don't usually drink, but knew that the sugar content would soon put me right; it worked. In hind sight I guess I must have geographically crossed into Laos on my 'long walk in the jungle'.

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My base camp at Hamburger Hill

Within the hour and after a refreshing bowl of Pho Bo (beef noodle broth) I was back on the road heading for Hue city, and civilization. I reached Hue by late afternoon and sat outside a top notch hotel watching the evening moped rush-hour over an Italian coffee machine-made flat white :)

Hue was at one time the capital city of Vietnam and its main tourist attraction is the impressive imperial city. I can best describe it as Pompei without the volcano damage; a huge ancient citadel, which has survived both the French and US occupation. In fact during the French colonial rule, the French allowed the Vietnamese royal family to reside there and govern, to a certain extent, its people. It's located on the eastern coast of Vietnam and is another tourist trap, but it was a convenient place to recuperate for a few days, dry my gear out and sip lattes; even in 30.c heat.

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Imperial city, Hue

After recovering at Hue for two days, I rode along the coast road to Da Nang a distance of only 120 kms. Just before you reach Da Nang is the pretty Hi-Van pass; a winding mountain road with great views towards the metropolis of DA Nang.
The Americans had an R&R base at Da Nang and I had promised myself the same.
Arriving on the outskirts of any major city at rush hour is always a bad move, but again, following my nose, through the centre I made my way to a quiet seaside district called My Khe beach. My Khe was the place where the first US ground troops came ashore in landing craft in 1965, to be greeted by local bikini-clad Vietnamese girls.
I spent three days of bliss at My Khe beach. November is classed as out-of-season
in Vietnam, so the hotels were reasonably priced. The sea temperature was around 22.c, ideal for swimming. At midday I counted 5 people on the beach; air temperature 30.c+ Joyio:)
Vietnamese tend to enjoy the beach during the cooler evenings, when searchlights light up the area; .....a case of mad dogs and Welshmen perhaps.

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My Khe beach, Da Nang, at midday. After dark it's packed with local folk


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Lang Co beach, Hi Van pass. A few kms north of Da Nang

After over two weeks 'on the road' I found Da Nang the perfect place to take a break. If you ever go there don't be put off by down-town Da Nang, head for My Khe beach.

Less than 100 kms down the road is Hoi An, another tourist resort. Though due to its smaller size, its streets seemed busier than Da Nang. Needless to say I only stayed here overnight before moving on; too many white faces. The town itself is rather quaint with its old river-fronted town centre. Famed for its tailors, every other shop seemed to be a drapers store ready to get you measured-up for some stylish clothing.

Vietnam fact file:
Fuel:
During my visit petrol was 17,000 VND per litre (70p per litre):thumb2
I had no problems finding fuel; petrol stations are everywhere on the main routes. Tank range on the XR was <160kms/100 miles>
Fuel is served by pump attendants who only take cash; just like the UK in the 60s :). Make sure the pump is zeroed before the attendant fills you up, otherwise you could be paying for their friend's fuel !
I never experienced this, but was warned about the scam.
In the more rural areas there are no fuel stations, but petrol is available at the local store in various containers ranging from 1L plastic milk cartons to jerry cans. There is a slight price hike, but not much.
Mobile phones:
I took my own phone and bought a Vietnam SIM 15,000 VND (60p). Then topped-up with varying amounts of credit. Not sure how many minutes you had for the differing priced scratch cards, but it lasted quite a while; even when ringing back home to the UK.
Vietnam has embraced new technology and has a first rate mobile phone network. Even in the dense jungle of Hamburger Hill I could get a signal. Back home I can walk outside my house and be in a 'not spot'.
Food:
You can eat very inexpensively in Vietnam. I ate 'street food' most of the time, which you can watch being cooked in front of your eyes; I was never ill. It's very tasty stuff, but is more veg than meat based. Step into a western style restaurant in the big cities and you'll pay western prices.
Every morning I started the day with two Banh Mi, a small baguette filled with veg, a small amount of pork and chilli; usually sold at a street corner by a lady. Very tasty.
Another savoury snack is Banh Boa. More doughier in texture than the Banh Mi, with a filling of spicy meat and a quail-sized egg in the middle. The interesting thing about Binh Bao is the way it's sold. It's sold by a chap on a moped with two panniers on the back. One contains an open fire BBQ (yes, a BBQ on the back of a bike !) which heats a pan of water to keep the Binh Bao hot. The bike is also equipped with a PA system so you know when he's about. I actually have his chant set as my mobile phone ring tone. Wonder what he though when this westener was holding his phone mic towards his speakers to record the chant ?
Again, it's a tasty snack and two will fill you up.

........to be continued.
 
Fantastic place, I visited Ho Chi Minh City and the surrounding area in the early 1990's, the war museum was call the Museum of American War Crimes in those days. Took a few tours and hired scooters for a few days. You are right about the traffic, we adopted a system of green means go, amber means go, red means go, side of the road optional. Worked a treat so long as you go with the traffic, like you said sudden movements and hesitation spell disaster. Loved the place and the street food.
 
Enjoying this....

What happened to the Lady Girl?
 
First time crossing the street in Hanoi was definitely a leap of faith even on a "pedestrian crossing". Well actually a controlled steady walk of faith.

The maximum points award for a crazy load on a bike was witnessed the day we were leaving Hanoi.A scooter with maybe a dozen lengths of rebar across the foot boards, sticking out maybe 7 or 8 feet either side of the scoot, on a main road with lots of traffic. I still wonder to this day whether or not the guy got to his destination without incident.

A good read, keep it coming please.
 
Keep it coming.

Myself and Masterbaker just arrived home on Thursday night after a week in Thailand then 9 days in Vietnam. We arrived in Saigon then took an overnight train to Da Nang and based in Hoi An for a few days before finding someone who would do a one way bike hire.


We rented Honda XR 150's and rode from there to Hanoi on Wednesday evening past. I was at the Dong Loc memorial this day last week and took photos of the monument you showed.

Riding in Vietnam was like being in a space invaders game!

I must throw up a ride report in the near future.
 
Enjoying this....

What happened to the Lady Girl?

Lol. To stop the pestering I gave my preference as being homosexual. The pimp then gave-up. It worked :) Not one came back with the 'Lady boy' offer, which I was expecting as the next line.
 
More than just Migs & Skyraiders

More pics.....

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A small section of the Truong Son National Cemetery near Dong Ha/17th Parallel.
There are over 10,000 burials at the cemetery. Casualties of the Truong Son Strategic Supply Route; the official name of the Ho Chi Minh Trail. Each grave is marked 'Liet Si' (Martyr).

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Fuel in rural communities, usually about a litre in size.

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The Binh Bao 'man' selling his savory dumpling-type snacks. Yes, that really is an open, BBQ-type, fire under the left pannier ! Time to vacate the petrol station when he pulls-in to fill-up his fuel tank:eek:

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Another rural petrol option. A hand-cranked, mobile petrol pump.

.......to be continued
 

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