More Stalling and advice sort.

Kiwi66

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I would be grateful for some advice on the ECU unit in an F800GS (2010).
Recently I have been having the dreaded stalling problem after riding the bike in warm weather. The bike sometimes stalls when after riding for some time you deaccelerate or slow down. I have had the ECU diagnosed but no faults have been detected and all upgrades done. Confused by the intermittent issue I have undertaken some basic research into this matter which has only lead to even more confusion.
Firstly, I am mechanically inept but by rational deductions, including from those on this forum, I set about pulling apart and cleaning all of the obvious, and cheaper, possible causes.
1) Removing each spark plug – looked fairly new and clean to me (only 500km old)
2) Remove the air filter and have a look at it – was replaced at the same time as the plugs
3) Cleaned up the Idle Control Actuator thingie as sometimes it wouldn’t stall but idle very rough (thanks to Mokkybear)
4) Reset the throttle TPS by doing the full off – full on – full off x4
5) Checked the air hoses for any blockages or kinks

Unfortunately my confidence was short lived as 2 hours into the next ride the problem reappeared.
I don’t believe that it is a fuel pump issue as surely this would be most noticeable when ”making progress” of which there is no noticeable issue or lack of performance. So my next focus point which is well beyond my mechanical competency is towards either the ECU or the fuel pump stuff at the other end of the bike. Personally I still believe that the bike isn’t responding correctly to the throttle deceleration with the ECU being giving or issuing misinformation to the fuel pump. (But I am only a google expert). Also to note is that restart must be done via the button, popping the clutch only produces extreme breaking. Again this leads me to an issue with the ECU.

So what next.
a) There is the fuel pressure sensor which can be replaced
b) The fuel pump can be replaced but I believe this is functioning properly
c) The fuel pump relay
d) something called the engine ignition pick-up which I assume must be similar to an EMS
d) firmware update.

So after further reading there is a possible solution where the ECU is cleared and forced (complete update) performed. But the local (only one) shop won’t do this as they say there is a high probability that they won’t be able to reinstall and we’ll have to purchase a completely new ECU at a mega cost !!!!!!!! Is this expert talking bullshit ? The last thing I want is for me to instruct the works only to be told that they were right and I (the google expert) was wrong.

If you have got to the bottom of this posting then I thank you for your time, and hope you appreciate that I have tried to research this problem first rather than just go straight onto the forum.

Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated including whether the “expert” is correct.
 
Have you looked on the advrider website? This forum is very quiet for the 800GS.

I had a problem with a (partially) failed fuel pressure regulator that caused massive over-fuelling and the posts on advrider helped.

Cheers

Alex
 
Lift the seat and see what colour the fuel pump controller is on top of the fuel tank under the round rubber cover, it's the triangular shaped thing with fins on it, if it's silver it's the old one, replace it with a later black one. Mine was doing similar. I chased my tail for weeks.
 
Thank you Serious 3 - unfortunately it is the BLACK one. It was one of the first things I checked for as I thought this would surely be the answer. (Still could be though). Being a 2010 it was at the time of the "update" but it could still be stuffed so it is on my list.
 
Have you looked on the advrider website? This forum is very quiet for the 800GS.

I had a problem with a (partially) failed fuel pressure regulator that caused massive over-fuelling and the posts on advrider helped.

Cheers

Alex

Thank you Alex - yes I had a snoop around both the adventurer and F800 sites. To be perfectly honest I do have a 1200 which has been my preferred weapon of choice, but now in NZ with considerably more gravel roads the 800 has a very useful niche. I have managed to "borrow" a fuel pump while a good chap is away (promised not to just swap them over). Going to try this over the weekend.

But what my real question was - is there any chance that a forced or complete update could permanently fook the ECU

Will update you on the outcome of the swap - though I don't think we are going to reach the 30 degrees I would ideally like.

Thanks for your thoughts
 
Don't necessarily eliminate the pump purely because the symptoms don't necessarily occur when the throttles wide open.

Attached thread contains a list of suspects I got from a guy on Adventure Rider. I had similar symptoms:

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php/435214-Possible-fuel-pump-failing?p=4496331#post4496331

To be honest I have been principally searching under "stalling" rather than fuel pump as I initially didn't want to preclude other possible solutions, but as I work my way to the back of the bike I am getting closer to that pump. One problem about being out here in Hobbit country is that ordering of parts can take up to three months just to deliver !!!!!!, and is a problem awaiting a backdoor solution. This is why I would like to try this forced upload thingie first. Because there were no diagnosed faults this is a search in the dark.
So this is where I am in order of priority search;
1) forced firmware update (minimal cost and time)
2) Borrow some parts from a "mate"
3) replace fuel pump and fuel pump controller (because I am running out of options)
4) replace fuel pressure sensor and throttle valve sensor (because it is something to replace)
5) New bike (I seriously enjoy the bike but at the moment our relationship is being tested - especially if the above wont work)
 
I would "borrow" parts. Swop them over and see if the issue moves bikes.

Start with the fuel pump, I remember reading that high ambient temps can cause issues. I believe having a low fuel level in the tank makes problem worse (so start with this).

Good luck


Alex
 
Had a good weekend for testing the ambient temperature hypothesis, replaced the whole fuel pump from a borrowed 2014. Was smiling for the first hour but unfortunately this isn't the source of the stalling as just after an hour when I was starting to relax and enjoy the ride the dreaded stalling returned. First instance was changing down from a good long run into a 90 degree bend. The bike all of a sudden had 100% of my attention !!!!!! So have dispelled the pump theory as I replaced this back into my mates bike and took it for a test ride. All went well.
Next weekend its the fuel pressure sensor and throttle valve sensor. Starting to become very very frustrating.

But appreciate all the supportive advice. Its just a problem waiting for me to find that solution.

Cheers
 
Also check your side stand switch....

Morning Serious
I gave the switch a good clean up - but all looked as it should do. It is when coming off the throttle either when changing down for a sharpish corner or coming up to a stop or round-about when the stalling happens. If I stay on constant throttle all is good. My gut feeling still tells me that it is an electronic signal somewhere. But I will give the side stand closer scrutiny tonight - if only that it is something to do before next weekend.

Cheers
 
Mine used to stall/stutter at about 130-150kmh.... turns out the vibration frequency only affected the side stand switch at that speed, I took mine off and the ring that rotates would also move in and out, breaking contact, I simply cable tied everything really tight and stowed the switch out of the way. Like you I went through all the big expensive and complicated stuff first, someone on here said side stand switch which I stupidly ignored.....

It's usually something simple that fails intermittentantly, pumps usually just stop, cdi's just stop, injectors stop working the complicated stuff fails complete
Y, the simple stuff soldiers on giving silly errors!
 
Mine used to stall/stutter at about 130-150kmh.... turns out the vibration frequency only affected the side stand switch at that speed, I took mine off and the ring that rotates would also move in and out, breaking contact, I simply cable tied everything really tight and stowed the switch out of the way. Like you I went through all the big expensive and complicated stuff first, someone on here said side stand switch which I stupidly ignored.....

It's usually something simple that fails intermittentantly, pumps usually just stop, cdi's just stop, injectors stop working the complicated stuff fails complete
Y, the simple stuff soldiers on giving silly errors!

Wouldn't it be nice if your problem/solution could be the same as mine. I will be onto this tonight and give the contacts close scrutiny. I have read somewhere that the switch can be bypassed. Will keep you posted but unfortunately I have to wait for the weekend to give the possible solution a rigorous test.
Thanks for your time.
 
Just a quick one to try..
as previous posts try bypassing the side stand switch..
if no good try cleaning out the throttle discs/bodies with carb cleaner spray, pay particular attention to the flow through the idle speed valve as gum in there will give you intermittent poor idle.
If problem doesn't change or persist suggest you take a look at the throttle TPS switch as it can partially fail without setting an error code. (Easy swap from your mate's bike.)

Good luck but my money would be on the dirty idle speed air valve or hoses.
 
Hi Kiwi
I had a similar problem last summer on a hot day. I asked on here and I had a few suggestions mostly technical. But one suggested that opening the fuel filler cap may help as the problem could be low fuel in the tank combined with hot weather causing a vacuum/venting problem. I tried this the next time it happened and it cleared the fault. I have also noticed thst I never get the problem when the tank is not getting low on fuel. I note that your problem comes in after you have been riding for a while. So hopefully this may be the issue too? Good luck mate.
 
Just a quick one to try..
as previous posts try bypassing the side stand switch..
if no good try cleaning out the throttle discs/bodies with carb cleaner spray, pay particular attention to the flow through the idle speed valve as gum in there will give you intermittent poor idle.
If problem doesn't change or persist suggest you take a look at the throttle TPS switch as it can partially fail without setting an error code. (Easy swap from your mate's bike.)

Good luck but my money would be on the dirty idle speed air valve or hoses.

So I guess I know what I will be attacking this weekend.
1)Re-inspect the Idle Regulator which I believe is also called the Idle Speed Valve
2)"borrow" while he ain't looking a TPS
3) Give those throttle discs a good spring clean
4) Disconnect the sidestand as above
5) Take it for a jolly good spin with my fingers crossed.

I am also booked in to have the ECU read for faults (takes three weeks just for them to have a look !!!!) If there is a fault they don't have any free time for another three weeks.

I will seriously have my fingers crossed that I get this resolved as summer is fast moving on.

Thanks Shaponphil - grateful for your time, and keep you posted on the results.
 
Hi Kiwi
I had a similar problem last summer on a hot day. I asked on here and I had a few suggestions mostly technical. But one suggested that opening the fuel filler cap may help as the problem could be low fuel in the tank combined with hot weather causing a vacuum/venting problem. I tried this the next time it happened and it cleared the fault. I have also noticed thst I never get the problem when the tank is not getting low on fuel. I note that your problem comes in after you have been riding for a while. So hopefully this may be the issue too? Good luck mate.

Cheers Gordyman,
Actually I also read similar posts and thought wooohooo there was a simple fix. Unfortunately not so.
Once the stalling starts, which can be up to an hour into a ride, no matter how full the tank the problem persists. Also checked the breather hose and for any suction when opening up the cap - but nothing. Hence my focus is towards something to do with the ECU and the fueling.

Something needs fixing just need to find out what !!!!

Haere Ra
 
So here is a quick update, and a thanks to those who imparted their knowledge.

I have just returned from my local service center here in Auckland and I am cautiously happy to report that there has been a noticeable improvement.
They have undertaken a manual firmware update, replaced the Idle Actuator, and "re-calibrated" the throttle.
Annoyingly there is an approaching weather bomb so the weekend is out, but it will give me some time to resurrect the sidestand switch which I had earlier bypassed.
Hopefully this is my last post on this issue and fingers crossed that the solution has been found. Now I can get back to enjoying the last of our summer days.

Once again many thanks.
 


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