AndyW
Registered user
Another question.....anyone made or heard of a modification to keep the cornering LED lights on permanently like aux/driving lights? Don't think there's much scope to add spots?
1290 GT
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12v plug in socket is on the left of the clocks and 12v switched and permanent wire connections are under the clocks, remove the torx and lift the clocks and you will see the connections.
A german fella on the adv rider forum has made a loom to enable the led corner lights to stay on, i never really followed it so cannot add any more.
The benefit of using the ram ball as per my picture, the square shaft once you cut it down to a suitable height it sits perfectly inside the oe sat nav mounting point on the bike.
I’ll be connecting the feed for my satnav myself after Gear4 decided I wanted a permanent live rather than a switched live when they connected the feed prior to me collecting my 1190. I can’t really complain too much because in over 2.5 years of owning it I’ve never bothered to change it.
Are the wires on the GT just capped off with resin or do they have a plug fitted? The ones on my MTS were capped but that actually made them much easier to identify and saved me the hassle of buying a compatible plug.
Are the wires on the GT just capped off with resin or do they have a plug fitted? The ones on my MTS were capped but that actually made them much easier to identify and saved me the hassle of buying a compatible plug.
If it’s like the 1290S it’s probably spade connection.
Spade connectors under the dash (not behind headlight). One permanent live and one ignition controlled.
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Thanks guys, that’ll give me something to do while I wait for the weather to warm up. I’m not sure that collecting a new bike at the beginning of January is the most sensible thing I’ve done but as long as it stays cold and dry rather than wet where road salt gets sprayed everywhere I’ll just go for a 500 mile round trip that involves an overnight stop in a pub and get on with it.
Make sure you blast it with ACF-50 good and proper, or if you can drop past my way you can use my compressor to slather it in the stuff.
I’ll be filling the paraffin gun with ACF50 and coating the bike as soon as I’ve rinsed off the 40 miles worth of shite dumped on it riding home from Market Deeping.
My 1190 has proven to be remarkably resilient when it comes to resisting corrosion because it’s probably only been cleaned properly 2 or 3 times since I purchased it but it’s had a winter coat of ACF50 every autumn when it’s been banished to the garage in favour of pre-disastered bikes for those occasional winter run outs to Eastern Europe that I find hard to resist.
I don’t know if I’m applying it correctly but my chosen approach is to wash the bike to remove crud, rinse thoroughly with cold water, blow the worst of the water off with the leaf blower then apply ACF50 using a paraffin gun attached to my compressor with the pressure turned down low and the nozzle set so it dispenses a fine mist. Allow to dry then ignore for 6 months.
Because I’m a bit of a cowboy and care not about the price of ACF50 I tend to go a bit mad when applying it to the wiring harness because rumour has it that the stuff creeps into connectors and if you go really crazy with it you can avoid any signs of corrosion for years.
I’ve never tested it on a modern BMW but when I sold my old K1100RS it looked as if it was 2 years old rather than 12.
Because I’m a bit of a cowboy and care not about the price of ACF50 I tend to go a bit mad when applying it to the wiring harness because rumour has it that the stuff creeps into connectors and if you go really crazy with it you can avoid any signs of corrosion for years.
I’ve never tested it on a modern BMW but when I sold my old K1100RS it looked as if it was 2 years old rather than 12.
I think the only thing you’re doing wrong is leaving it for only 6 months, I leave the NC for 12 months other than hosing the salt off. Actually the KTM gets lots of TLC
The NC does come up mint though
The NC does come up mint though
I do pretty much the same, the first time I used the compressor method my Autocom suddenly went a lot louder, I thought my hearing was slowly going, or my helmet slowly getting more noisy, but I guess it was something inside the unit the ACF crept into.
I also use the ACF-50 Corrosion Block Grease on connectors that are likely to get a battering, like the one at the front of the engine on the 1190, nicely located to face all the shit coming off the front wheel.
I also use the ACF-50 Corrosion Block Grease on connectors that are likely to get a battering, like the one at the front of the engine on the 1190, nicely located to face all the shit coming off the front wheel.
I connect all my navs to perminent feeds rather than those switched by the ignition because I finding it irritating when the unit turns off every time I switch off the ignition. There's no way of locking the nav on the bike so it's never left on when I'm not riding so won't flatten the battery.
It’s simply because I’ve left the satnav switched off but still in the cradle on two occasions and both times it completely flattened the battery over the space of a fortnight. I know I can easily solve that problem by taking the satnav off the bike but that satnav only gets used on the KTM so I’d sooner just leave it attached.
AndyW
Registered user
Power socket and or ACC's.....thanks
Cornering lights - didn't find the German fella's wiring loom but after looking into this idea more it's consigned to the bin as consensus (thanks for the ADVR nudge) appears the lights are not powerful enough for day/driving lights which is what I'm after.
So......
.....anyone come up with a good LED spotlights installation?
RAM ball additional info......thanks.....sold
Cheers
Yes SDR front fender, rear part is carbon and I've fitted pyramid fender extender / Ktm oe adventure handguards .
40t rear sprox is a great mod, don't bother doing the front sprox, waist of time, I tried and it was too much.
Rear seat canister removal
All the carbon was from Germany / Hfcarbon.de apart from the rear hugger.
Extended Hugger was from Germany £250 ish but a different supplier, if you intend to use the bike in anything but sunshine than the stock hugger is shite .
Touratech 25mm bar risers
R&G tail tidy, I did have the evo tech fitted but I prefer the R&G .
Front extended engine cover, stops crap covering the engine
I have all the evotech stuff .
Short levers
Crash bungs/wheel bungs
GB case savers and clutch master saver.
I've wrapped the whole bike in ventureshield, a must do is the front indicators/corner lights there prone to stone chips and cost £270 each if you hole one, you can just see the out line of the ventureshield film .
Screen is Ktm tinted, I also have a puig and it created to much buffeting so I cut it down.
Tank bag is TT and off my WC GS and fits perfect .
I moved the horn from behind the rad, it's muffled and once they get hot they used to pack up, never a problem now .
It's not a garage queen, I use it, (spain twice / Germany) but not in today's weather (ice n snow) but I've got a little OCD so its stunning, I look after my stuff so theres not a mark on it.
Hilltop
I've done several other mods, making 10 - 15mm spacers to bring the toe pegs out so its easier to foot the gear and rear brake levers, changing out bolts for titanium and replacing all the fairing fasteners with pro-bolt stuff.
I've not had one issue and have no regrets paying retail price it was worth it at the time.
Any exhaust end can off a SDR will fit, I won a brand new Akro on eBay, it was listed for a SDR and at the time it was much cheaper than anything being listed for a GT !
What make is the engine guard extender?
Would that be the GB racing one or the Evotech ;0)
It doesn't say the make on the line that mentions the extension, just "Front extended engine cover, stops crap covering the engine"
Moose
Registered user
It's annoying that there is a Roadlok (in black) that fits the RHS on the GT but is only available for the LHS on the SA - makes it easier to use if on the RHS.
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