Off to Peru... looking a little damp

After Leymebamba I ride in ahead to the high city of Chachapoyas as I was keen to get into dryer clothes.

I was soon riding into the courtyard of the historical Hotel Revash (many of the electris inside are also historical )IMG_6665.jpg

Chachapoyas itself is a beautiful town and fun to visit with many friendly people
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We are woken by the local bin lorry which has a tannoy on top playing music at 0700 IMG_6667.jpg



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Day 5: expedition to Gocta waterfall

Supposedly one of the top ten in the world, these falls can be attained after a wonderful high speed canyon road ride and up a muddy dirt road......Followed by a 4.5km steep walk there.

Well, we managed the first bit but after 2.5kms walk we realised we would run out of light for the ride home.

So all I can offer is this shot or two of the falls. The scale is stunning and the noise adds to the impact - just sorry we did not get close up
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And a speedway style line up before we head downhill and home
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I meant also to post this photo of previous hotel in Celendin where it was obviously 'bring your kid to work' day in the kitchen
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Day 6 Kuelap

We rode and took a cable car to the ancient city of Kuelap at 3600 metres - capital of the cloud forest people who withstood the Incas. When you have ridden up there you realise how hard it would have been to conquer.IMG_6703.jpgIMG_6717.jpg
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Although we are besieged by a garrulous guide called Edgar who bangs data at us like a tiny jackhammer it is still a great place to visit, virtually deserted and mysterious amidst the clouds. It's only when they briefly part that we see quite how high we are and how sheer the sides are.

Because it's in the cloud forest there is luxuriant growth
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On the way down we see a klr 650 which has been ridden from Alaska!
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Wonder why he carries a tyre?surely if he gets a puncture he can just get it repaired?

It's not to fix a puncture, it's for when the tyre wears out. The rear has probably already been done. Loads of people carry spare tyres.
 
Day 7: into the Amazon jungle
- Chachapoyas to Moyobamba

Billed as a long ride, we set off from Hotel Revash in Chachapoyas main square about 0930 after some last minute maintenance (which didn't need to be!) .

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As we leave the square I admire one of the lovely female police motorcyclists who insist on wearing very stretch trousers

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We enjoy the swinging canyon curves out from Chachapoyas and I am in a pleasant reverie when another member of the group catches me to tell me one of our number has come unstuck on a wet and gravelly water drain across a bend in the road.

Fortunately he has picked himself up and ridden on so we hope all is well and continue over a large mountain range.

This after a 20 minute wait by the roadside for 2 other members of the group have decided to take a coffee break. We fear more casualties so are relieved when they turn up unharmed, but grumpy they kept us waiting by the road when we too could have been having a coffee break.

As we climb I see a hen run out into the road in front a bus which gives it a fair thump before the sorry fowl is despatches by one of our group who is overtaking the bus at that moment.

Bus drivers and Peruvians generally seem very religious and this bus is a good example
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Having seen the vertiginous drops off Andean roads I think I understand why!

The ride over the mountains is very wet but as we descend on the other side we get the warmth and wild West feel if the jungle. All is rather ramshackle but there is a long and straight road to Moyobamba. On the way we stop at a small roadside cafe for wonderful bean soup which with coffee, water and a cake comes to about £2.50 each.

By this time our fallen rider decides his leg is too painful and puts his bike on the trailer. Here he is having ice applied by the attentive staff at our Moyobamba hotel
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Whilst we enjoy local fruit juices and beer
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The weather has been a mix of sun cloud and rain. But we have not been neglecting to protect ourselves from the equatorial sun, as this 'Vladimir' photo showsIMG_6729.jpg


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And this morning I picked up a chick but gave her the boot!IMG_6786.jpg


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Security on the road: on the road to Moyobamba just after lunch we were stopped by armed militia who waved us down: the 'seguridad vial'.

Thinking they were police I stopped - after a Buenos Dias and handshake they start asking for money but I wish them luck and decline a donation and ride on.

They operated from a place like thisIMG_6769.jpg

I didn't take a photo then for obvious reasons but we had a similar experience the next day when going to a river trip so I got a picture then:
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Apparently it dates from when there was widespread terrorism and local militias sprung up. We came across these several times in the coming days but just waved and continued and this did not seem to be a problem. However we note that the bus driver who took us to the river expedition did stop and give them 5 soles or so.


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Day 8: Amazon river expedition

Amazingly we are all ready for our 0530 departure by bus to a port on the river Maio, a tributary of the Amazon.

From bus we went a motorboat and then took a 3 hour canoe ride

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St Gerry of Moyobamba, our wounded rider, makes his way around the eco reservation
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The Amazon environment was amazing
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We are also shown by Edita (pictured) the local fruits being grown on the vivero (plantation?) - there are so many, guava, cecona, chirimayo, sweet lemon, cocoa, coffee and many more....

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Saw a Sloth with baby But can't find the picture ��



Also saw monkeys
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And lots of other beautiful evidence of the fertiluof the area
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I know that most GSers are keen on flower arrangement so I bring you a selection of orchids and such like from Moyobamba the self appointed orchid capital of Peru.
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And some caimans to add some edge

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Next instalment: the hazards of exiting Moyobamba and its confusing one way streets!


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'Second Left, fourth night onto Calle 20 April': Jorge's words were ringing in my ears as I set off from the orchid centre to leave Moyobamba.

But Calle 20 April turned out to be a one way street the wrong way!

I avoided that trap and found another street which looked the business. However after 2 blocks I realised all the traffic was coming the other way.

I made a quick emergency exit to a less fraught environment - but one of the guys following me was less lucky.

A tuktuk raced out if another street and turned into him. It tipped over and ejected its passengers.

Or so I am told as I saw none of this, focussed instead on avoiding the oncoming traffic.

When I double back I find a policeman overseeing the scene and all vehicles righted. The coo explains that the choices are a TR rip to the Comisaria de policies or a cash settlement to the bruised tuktuk driver.

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Fortunately our saviour above arrives - she works at the hotel we had left and arrives by chance. She helped me negotiate a sensible quick settlement and confirmed the cop's analysis of the choices was realistic. She also told me that any trip to the cookshop would be very long and should be avoided.

So poorer but free we set off on our way - and in all likelihood a certain Moyobamba driver has a finely refurbished tuktuk by now!


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The damaged bike is certainly rideable- it only had a drop and lost a mirror and from its appearance this wasn't the first time.

We are keen to make progress now and regain the relative coolness of Chachapoyas after the heat of the jungle. And the rest of the ride is a lot less eventful.

We stop to chat to a local coffee farmer whilst we wait for one rider - it seems his top box (held together only by gaffer tape!) exploded open over a speed bump chucking his gear on the road so he is not amused.
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Chickens stride across the coffee husks by the ancient machinery
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The coffee in this area is all part of Alte Maio- a coffee brand you will find in the U.K. And I suppose this a cooperative. The farmer takes us down the road to show us the coffee plants he is growing from seed and which he tells us generate a crop in three years.
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Further on we climb up into the mountains and the heavens open. I am riding with Phil who has put on his 'boil in the bag' suit - but neglected to zip his boots!

So at our lunch stop he drains off the water
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Meanwhile we eat a lovely lunch of soup cheese and bread and coffee, all for about £1.50 and served up by a very bright 10 year old girl. She is slightly evasive when I ask why she is not at school. She is clearly a lot sharper than her Dad pictured below. She twigs that we need bread and des patches him in his tuktuk to buy it
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We arrive safely (and dried out again) at the lovely city of Chachapoyas.

We had hoped to carry on via Olmos then day towards the coast at Chiclayo. However the reports are varied but the balance of opinion is that Olmos is underwater and even if public buses are setting off there is no telling how long they are taking.

So reluctantly we must retrace our steps over the narrow and cloudy roads of the Cerro de Calla Calla.

The next day we set off with mixed expectations.

A selection of tools (including the essential hammer!) is packed by Franco.
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Soon we are in the amount where fee tourists pass:

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There is less cloud than last time and the views are magnificent
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But soon enough we are amidst the clouds like an aeroplane
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The roads are in many cases covered by mud after recent landslides triggered by rain
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Or the road has just fallen away
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