Fuel Strip to Float Conversion...Dummy Run

Thanks, my strip is working every now and then. May go the conversion route and just hope the strip decides to be in working mode when I try and calibrate it!
 
Thanks, my strip is working every now and then. May go the conversion route and just hope the strip decides to be in working mode when I try and calibrate it!
I would do it sooner rather than later, as you will need a strip otherwise!
 
I used my strip that was on the way out to calibrate. It took a few goes to make it pass the calibration but eventually it did.

The float system has been in place about 6 to 8 months now and it reads a little off, it tells me I am empty after about 200 miles when in fact I can go at least another 100, maybe 190 if I am feeling brave. I assumed this was due to float travel and tank shape but I suppose it may be my dodgy fuel strip calibration?
 
The float system has been in place about 6 to 8 months now and it reads a little off, it tells me I am empty after about 200 miles when in fact I can go at least another 100

Hmm, that's a bit worrying now I've ordered one! Wonder if the later GSA's with the float have the same issue or it's just the convertor not giving the right signal.
 
I was presuming that you calibrate at dry its therefore "empty" regardless?

True but if my fuel strip was faulty then maybe it gave off readings at what it was expecting for an empty reading? I would be interested to know if others with this device have a similar issue?
 
From what I understand, the fuel strip either works or it doesn't, if it fails, it fails "empty" rather than full.
 
Doh. Got the float today, thought I'd get stuff ready by fitting the float to the pump. Bit to late as my strip won't calibrate! Thought if I could've got that done I could've reassembled it all ready and just need to plug in the converter!
 
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From what I understand, the fuel strip either works or it doesn't, if it fails, it fails "empty" rather than full.

Not entirely true. I've had 4 that have failed like that. Drop to zero and show flashing low fuel warning and zero range remaining.
I have also had 3 that have failed by telling me I still have 250-300 miles range remaining when I've covered 330 + miles. . I've just had my 8th fuel strip fitted and it's working fine again. Told me I had 45 miles reaming and I put in just over 30 litres. It's nice to know I've got an accurate guage again. 2 year warranty on this from last week. I wonder how many I'll get out of it this time.
 
Doh. Got the float today, thought I'd get stuff ready by fitting the float to the pump. Bit to late as my strip won't calibrate! Thought if I could've got that done I could've reassembled it all ready and just need to plug in the converter!

You can connect the male plug off the top of the tank to a foil sensor with jumper leads to save disassembly.
 
Phew, just piezo'd my strip, tried again and this time it calibrated ok. Chucked it all back together so just need to refit bodywork and wait for the converter. That big round seal is a bit of a bugger, hard to see if the unit is going in evenly all the way round. Fingers crossed it has.
 
Hmmm, all fitted. Test ride today, fuel gauge empty all the time. Put 30 litres in, 30 odd miles and still empty all the time. Can snyone who's done this give me a clue where to start looking please?!
 
Have you checked the float moving freely, first installation on mine had it held down by a pipe that runs from one side to the other. You might be able to take the filler off and shine a torch in to see - use a coat hanger to hold it up. It takes a few minutes to get a reading.
 
It does, I had to take the tank surrounds off and the filler cap and inner off. Shone a torch, the float can't go to the very top owing to design but I can push it down with a metal rod and it pops up again. I can see the pipe you mean, it's above it and not fouling it. I'm getting a 41705: Fuel level indictator, the fault is currently present. I've tried unplugging all the connectors and reconnecting but no difference.
 
Here's what I did / used:


Float is installed and connected to underside of pump. From the receipt the part I used is “1 x BMW R1200 2010 16148554065 16148554065 99.77”. According to Bert there may be two versions of the float adapter – he asked me to confirm I had a blue one (my bike is 2009 R1200 GSA) – which is apparently correct. Bert’s words “is it a small blue block or is it a black box with a "Float Control 2" sticker on it” which I take to be different versions.
I used jumper leads from the 4 way male plug on the top of the pump to the foil sensor you sent me, which I hung down the outside of the crash bars.
Connected up my GS911 – I used it plugged into a Toughbook laptop, which is connected to the House wifi I guess whilst it’s all going on, but I am using the USB connection between the GS911 and the Laptop.
Turned ignition ran a fault scan – none.
Went to fuel strip calibration, let it run (circa 5 mins).
Then shut down bike and GS911 and waited about 5 mins for all systems on the bike to be asleep.
Connected 4 way plug back on to the female connection on the top of the pump/tank.
Started the engine – nothing the first time, but then 2nd time I noticed I had the low fuel warning, and one bar initially once it had settled down (it takes a couple of minutes to respond to change it would appear). Range was 39 miles or something but was going down as bike was ticking over – I left it for 10 minutes or so and it changed – I have since read that this feed come from the fuel injection.
Then filled up from a can with 20+ litres and went for a ride! No change and continued to count down.
Then I had the thought on moving the float sensor to see if that was the problem and bingo! It was the pipe trapping the movement.
 
I've done what you've done. Checked the float again and still moving. Beginning to wonder if it's the float itself. I asked for the correct part number, no way of checking the unit itself as there is no number on it, just Siemens VDO iirc. I put my multimeter across the 2 centre pins and it's an open circuit, left them there then pushed the float up and down and still open. I then plugged in a variable resistor into the convertor then the gauge went to full. Removed the resistor and empty again. With my resistor there are no fault codes, with the bmw float it's always 41705. I'll get onto Motorworks and see what they say. Cheers for your input :)
 
Malvern Beemer is having a similar problem I believe.
I used a brand new float - so that removed any doubt in that area.
 
Deffo a faulty part. The sliding connectors weren't touching the tracks so basically an open circuit. I dismantled it and "repaired" it to how I think it should be, can't tell if I've done it right without seeing a good one. Anyhow, now there is resistance showing which changes as you move the float. I've refitted it but need to put the bodywork back together to test it out.
 
Contacted Motorworks, they havent got anymore so gave me a partial refund as I had to fix it, if it fails they'll refund the remaining amount.

Upshot is my repair seemed to have worked as I now get a fuel reading. I had filled it so had to drain 15 litre's out so I could get the pump assembly out. Showed 206 miles which rapidly dropped to 45 over a 30 mile trip. I put the remaining almost 15 in, started it and after a minute or so it showed 306. I'm going for a run tomorrow so will fill it before I leave and see how it goes.
 


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