Fuel Strip to Float Conversion...Dummy Run

AlexG

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Some will have seen this:

http://hposkam.nl/en/product/bmw-vlotter-converter/

The plug-in converter comes with instructions and photos of how to install the module and float on a R1200GSA fuel tank. The website (http://hposkam.nl) also shows it being installed in a R1200GSA, but lists a float option for the R1200GS as well.

The R1200GS float option listed at hposkam.nl (16148554064) is for models from 2008.

I suspect that for R1200GSAs and 2008-2010 R1200GSs the information provided with the converter and on the website will provide an easy upgrade path, but for the 2004-2007 R1200GSs it is less certain.

I have a 2007 R1200GS so I decided to check up on details, the following is what I think I have discovered.

Observations:

  • Early non-computer(?) R1200GSs had a float instead of the strip.
  • The early type float is not listed as a separate assembly, it is part of the fuel pump.
  • The float arrangement on the later model R1200GS is totally different to the early model R1200GS and the R1200GSA - the float is mounted on a bracket that attaches to the filler neck instead of being mounted directly on the fuel pump.
  • It is only the actual arm that appears different for each assembly (see photos).
  • The early R1200GS fuel tank is a different shape to later models.

R1200GSA float assembly:
GSA%20Float.jpg


Late R1200GS float assembly (left, attached to bracket) and early R1200GS float assembly (right)
Late%20%26%20Early%20GS%20Float.jpg


I’ll have a closer look when I have things apart, but I doubt fitting the later R1200GS float assembly to an early bike will even be an option (the filler neck appears to be fundamentally different in the images I have looked at).

I have a complete early pump with float so I have done a dummy run with the spare pump and the converter plugged into the bike’s loom…at the float’s lowest position the fuel gauge is still displaying one bar and the blob at the bottom (and the low fuel warning comes on). With the float at its highest position the fuel gauge shows full and the low fuel warning is off. So in a basic sense the converter and float do the basic job.

The gauge display is the same for both float assemblies as one would expect.

The downside of the early model float is that it is not listed as a separate assembly. It should be possible to butcher one of the others to fit directly on to the pump, but the float arm would need to be modified so that it sits at the correct angle (see photos above), probably not straight forward because there are quite a few twists and turns in it.

Questions:
  • If a bike is run completely out of fuel do all the blocks on the gauge normally go out? My gauge has never worked reliably enough to see it!
  • Do the early non-computer bikes have a fuel level gauge? I’m just trying to work out whether on these bikes the float is only intended to trigger the low fuel level alert or not.
 
A quick update...I have now fitted this. I did not take any photos because it is all covered elsewhere already.

There is no way a 2008-on assembly will fit to the earlier model filler neck without major modification and even then I doubt the float would work correctly because of the different tank shape.

You'll need a T20 to partially disassemble the pump assembly to enable the wiring of the float to be correctly routed on the pump.

The socket on the converter needed a little dressing to enable the plug from the bike loom to fit properly.

Now I just need to do some miles to see when the warning comes on etc. I always reset the trip when I refuel so should be able to tell pretty quickly how accurate this mod is. As long as it is not wildly inaccurate I'll be happy.

No more fuel strip zapping :clap
 
Mine started flashing today with a full tank. This is a permanent fix I presume. I have a 2009 GS but I don't see the part you mentioned listed for that. I've emailed them. Any ideas on best place to source the correct float. Thanks


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I'm not trying to put this new system down. It looks like the fix.
My issue is that the tank shape is so convoluted that I can't see how lever arm float can cover more than the lower 2/3 of the tank volume.
My stick float is set as high as I can put it but still reads full for the first 100 miles.
 
I'm not trying to put this new system down. It looks like the fix.
My issue is that the tank shape is so convoluted that I can't see how lever arm float can cover more than the lower 2/3 of the tank volume.
My stick float is set as high as I can put it but still reads full for the first 100 miles.

For the early model GSs (04-07) I suspect you are correct and I assume was the design decision behind using the strip in the first place. For me I will be happy if I have something that gives me a low level warning and is reasonably accurate at the bottom of the range, I can live with optimistic fuel level for the first 1/2 - 2/3 of the tank and crucially for me it works with the standard gauge.

However, for the 'mid' model GSs (08-10) it should work as well as the later model GSs (10-13) because as far as I can tell the 08-10 can use the exact same float that the later model GSs uses so in theory the same float range is being used as per BMW's design...the change of mounting location (filler neck instead of pump) would appear to be the subsequent design decision to overcome the limitation of mounting the float to the pump assembly on early GSs.

I have no idea about the GSAs because I do not have one and have not checked, but my assumption would be that the same rule as for the later model GSs will apply i.e. if the same same float is used as is specified for later GSAs the float sensor range of movement should be OK and give comparable accuracy to BMW's float arrangement.
 
The GSA tank is tall and each side is narrow where it meets the tank top. A pivoting float at the top will be reading zero by 1/2 empty. A float on the fuel pump won't start to read until it's 1/2 empty.
I'm sure this is why they went for the no moving parts fuel strip. It's such a shame they messed up the delivery.
I think my stick float is a good compromise just need to sort out an interface to the OEM system.
 
If you want a low warning, you can get float switches for not much cost. Or you could fit a thermistor which will conduct as it warms up. Won't conduct when chilled by petrol.
 
I hear what you are saying, but I just want something that fits without too much messing around, which is what I have now.

If I spend any more time looking at this I will explore how the range of movement of the existing float can be improved. I have a mate who does 3D scanning so in theory it should be relatively straight forward to capture a model of the tank and play around with alternative float arm configurations (this would be the complicated/time consuming bit).

Aren't the later model GSAs float sensors? Presumably they work OK, so it must be possible.
 
I'm going to order the float for my 2009 GS along with the emulator. Will let you know how I get on. I'm assuming this can all be accessed without taking the tank off and do it via the filler neck


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I'm going to order the float for my 2009 GS along with the emulator. Will let you know how I get on. I'm assuming this can all be accessed without taking the tank off and do it via the filler neck

Tank left on, but the fuel pump will need to come out to unplug the strip and plug in the float (which means running the fuel level down or draining some fuel out).
I reckon filler neck will need to come off to get the strip out and to enable the float to be fitted to the neck (the float assembly is a push fit on the filler neck that I have).
 
Thanks. Will have to research how to get to fuel pump


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My float should arrive today.
AlexG, stupid question: what did you use to unscrew the flange? Simple piece of wood?
 
Is it possible for someone buying a new float assembly to post on here the empty and full resistance values and whether it is a log or linear scale ?
Would be nice to see if the readings are the same for early floats (06) as the 2010-2012 TC floats.
Just be handy for anyone considering using a non BMW float assembly but using this converter.
 
My float should arrive today.
AlexG, stupid question: what did you use to unscrew the flange? Simple piece of wood?

A piece of wood would do (sorry), to be honest I just used a screwdriver and hammer to give one of the lugs a gentle tap round. I wrapped the end of the screwdriver to prevent any remote possibility of sparks causing an issue. When doing it up I made sure the seal was sitting correctly between pump and tank and then did the flange up as tight as I could by hand. It's a bodge I am not proud of, but I have done it this way twice and not experienced any leaks.


Is it possible for someone buying a new float assembly to post on here the empty and full resistance values and whether it is a log or linear scale ?
Would be nice to see if the readings are the same for early floats (06) as the 2010-2012 TC floats.
Just be handy for anyone considering using a non BMW float assembly but using this converter.

I think the actual float resistancy bits are the same irrespective of year, I have a spare in the garage and will measure it when I have a chance.
 
The pump retaining ring can be very tight. I use a large blunt screwdriver and hit it around once its moved about 1/4 turn it should shift by hand.

On the GSA you will need to unbolt the petrol tank bolts and slide it back. Otherwise the pump cover will not clear the beak frame.

Don't worry about sparks while unscrewing the cover. People sit on their bikes smoking!!!
Obviously DO WORRY about sparks when the cover is removed!!! I did the job outside and syphoned out the remaining petrol into safe storage can(s).

When replacing use silicone or red rubber grease on the petrol pump cover with only a smear on the gasket inner side. Avoid using any on the gasket side facing the petrol tank rim. This gives you the best chance of not dislodging the seal.

When done, fit the screw-on ring by hand. Turn it backwards until you feel the thread drop then check its not cross thread. Do up tight and tap it around a bit further with the screwdriver. No need to go mad, it may need to come off again one day.

It's very easy for everything to seem fine until you fill the tank. If that seal has moved it will LEAK A LOT and will probably have a full tank by the time you realise. DAMHIK ;)
 
For the early model GSs (04-07) I suspect you are correct and I assume was the design decision behind using the strip in the first place. For me I will be happy if I have something that gives me a low level warning and is reasonably accurate at the bottom of the range, I can live with optimistic fuel level for the first 1/2 - 2/3 of the tank and crucially for me it works with the standard gauge.

However, for the 'mid' model GSs (08-10) it should work as well as the later model GSs (10-13) because as far as I can tell the 08-10 can use the exact same float that the later model GSs uses so in theory the same float range is being used as per BMW's design...the change of mounting location (filler neck instead of pump) would appear to be the subsequent design decision to overcome the limitation of mounting the float to the pump assembly on early GSs.

I have no idea about the GSAs because I do not have one and have not checked, but my assumption would be that the same rule as for the later model GSs will apply i.e. if the same same float is used as is specified for later GSAs the float sensor range of movement should be OK and give comparable accuracy to BMW's float arrangement.

All,

I have received a float for a GSA conversion which will be using this method. The part number that was provided to me was of a different model float not consistent with a GSA. Under advice from a breakers I received a float on sale or return as long as no damage is done to the part. The fuel level float from a slightly later model GSA than an 2008 IS different to both floats pictured within this chain. GSA OWNERS BEWARE>
 


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