Will 10/40 oil 'do'...and can I fit a crush washer from my local washer supplier.....

Bikermike1411

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Afternoon all.

This ISN'T another 'what oil....' question!

I have a new 4 litre container of Silkolene super-4 semi-synth. I'd got ready to drop the old oil when I glanced at the new tub (which i've had for ages) and noticed it's 10/40.

I know that the debate is usually between 15/40 and 20/50 oil. Mine had 20/50 last time the oil was done, but as I already had this silkolene I was ready to put it in. I haven't...yet.

The question is will 10/40 do, or is it a bit too thin for the boxer engine? I'm prepared to go out and buy some 20/50 semi, but it'll have to be next Friday and i'm hoping to get up to Scotland on Saturday! We all know what happens when you do things last minute......

Secondly, bit of a numb question, but is there anything 'special' about the BMW crush washers on the sump plug, or can I nip down to my local motor factors and pick one up? As much as I like supporting independent BMW parts suppliers, i'm loathed to pay £3 postage on a 75p washer.....

Cheers!
Mike
 
I'm not getting into a debate about oil. Of course it will "do". If it's the correct oil or not that's another q. As for the washer why not reuse the old one? JJH
 
I normally do reuse the old washers, but it's the first time i've done an oil change on the GS and the two 'how to' idiot's guide vids i've seen online have stressed the importance of changing the crush washers.

I'm not a complete numpty - changing bike oil is second nature to me. However, with so many drain points on a boxer engine I had to check which one was the 'correct' drain point (and yes, 'the lowest' would be sensible at a guess), hence the online search and now the drain plug crush washer question!

And regarding the oil, 'Crisp N' Dry' would go down the hole, it's oil, but it'd knacker my engine up. Similarly I could fry my chips in Castrol R. My kitchen would smell amazing but you couldn't eat them.

There is the ongoing debate about 15/40 vs 20/50. Mine had 20/50 at the last service interval. The book says 15/40, but i've read on here that BMW now recommend 20/50.

I have 4L of 10/40 sat here gathering dust.

Now. Without getting into a debate about 'what oil', could someone knowledgeable, and possibly with experience of the same question, please, suggest whether 10/40 is too thin compared to 15/40 or 20/50, or should I go out and buy £20 worth of 20/50 next Friday?

I'll take sarcasm with a pinch of salt, but there is a genuine question in there.
 
I'm not getting into a debate about oil. Of course it will "do". If it's the correct oil or not that's another q. As for the washer why not reuse the old one? JJH

JJH - sorry if i seemed a bit short there bud - i've spent half the day in bed with a splitting migraine. I now feel like i've been punched hard in the face.......
 
No offence ment or taken. If it was me I'd use the oil and reuse the washer. I'd have a washer handy for the next oil change. And hopefully have my mind made up about the oil. JJH
 
10/40 is fine, its what is in mine... A few years back 10/40 semi synth got me to Rome and back without having to top up

Any old crush washer will do fine....:thumb2
 
That's what I use in mine, Millers 10w 40. Its only an old tractor so it will better than "do" Dont believe the hype about engine oil its all bollocks and marketing by BMW promoting whichever oil that is willing to pay them the most to tag their name onto the bikes.:comfort:rob:D
 
I've always used the old washers without a problem. Re oil grades, I don't think it's the 5/40 10/50 etc which matters so much in this country because our temperatures don't go too far to the extremes but the API JASO etc. These grades let the user know if they're suitable for wet bike clutches etc. Similarly, with GS rear drives, they recommend certain types only.
 
Hi Mike,
If you have any concerns about the crush washer, just anneal it while the oil is draining. Works for me!:thumb2
Chris
 
Hi Mike,
If you have any concerns about the crush washer, just anneal it while the oil is draining. Works for me!:thumb2
Chris

Works for a solid washer as long as that washer hasn't been damaged but annealing wont uncrush a crush washer! Crush washers were designed for one use only, fit a solid washer if you want to re use it.

John
 
I've only ever used 10/40 in my 1100/1150 GS's..... must have done almost 80,000 miles now.
 
Used Chevron 10/40 for years and 70,000 miles before switching to Castrol GTX 15/40 and that was only because Costco stopped selling the 10/40. No detrimental effect, a little bit noiser with the thinner oil especially in hot weather, but has always run well. Reused washers on many occasions but now keep a stock so a new one is always available.
 
As said above, the aluminium washers used by BMW are crush washers, they can't be uncrushed. I wouldn't want to run the risk of having a re-used one leak with the ensuing grief of trying to take out the plug, fit a new washer and replace the plug without dumping all of the fresh oil. Not ony that, if you are doing a big trip soon the last thing you want is a risk of oil leaking.

A standard copper washer will probably work fine. Anneal it if you re-use it and be very careful torquing the plug.
 
As said above, the aluminium washers used by BMW are crush washers, they can't be uncrushed.


The ones they use aren't really crush washers. They're a sealing ring/washer.

Crush washers are tubular.
 
Why would anyone do that? :nenau I've got bags of aluminium crush washers for engine, trans and bevel box in the garage, something like £2-3 per 100 postage free.

iv done the same as you imported a few bags of copper washers the right sizes for a few quid
 
iv done the same as you imported a few bags of copper washers the right sizes for a few quid

Oh God. I put this to bed last night and it's just kept rolling.... sorry!

Where's the best place to buy them in bulk for keeping in stock? My friendly online auction site is a bit pricey, unless I need to do a generic search for 'aluminium washer' and not 'R1150GS.....'
 


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