Deleted account 191119001
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Only when new from the factory - once you've taken every other spoke out, they're actually lighter...
Can you be more precise......................
Loose spokes
- Thread starter Bake
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Can you be more precise......................
Here you go Karlos look inside the nipple you can see a little 2mm grub screw.
Interestingly, my local dealership didn’t know that the grub screw was there either. I had to say “it won’t tighten up like that - you’ll need to slacken the grub screw”
“ what grub screw” replied the tech....
Then later on “we’ve just had a look at one in the workshop and we think it’s just the end of the spoke”
“I can assure you it isn’t”, I said, “if you give me a 2mm Allen key. I’ll show you”
Was total news to them!
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Deleted account 191119001
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Should have the Techs subscribe to here, we can teach them better, calling Engineer
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My spokes are not loose by my measure - is there a British Standard that defines loose?
Deleted account 191119001
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But have you taken any away to make the wheels lighter..............post 40
Not to hijack the thread - but to expand on it.
My GSA 5 weeks old, 900 miles, 300 since the wheels were off at the dealer to put decent tyres on it.
Love the bike but yesterday afternoon I experience mild handlebar wobble at motorway speeds.
This morning it developed significantly into what can only be described as a tank slapper. - bloody strange !
So I cleaned the bike and remembering this thread I checked the spokes the old fashioned way gently tapping each one with a spanner looking for that sweet ping.
5 on the rear wheel and 4 on the front didn't do anything but a dull thud whilst I could actually see them moving!!!! almost half the remaining spokes were suspect just producing a dull pitch.
Now this could all be just a coincidence but just I discussed it with the dealership (who have been very helpful) They suggested I didn't ride the bike anymore so BMW assist has been called and it is now on a transporter on the way to the dealer to be assessed.
My GSA 5 weeks old, 900 miles, 300 since the wheels were off at the dealer to put decent tyres on it.
Love the bike but yesterday afternoon I experience mild handlebar wobble at motorway speeds.
This morning it developed significantly into what can only be described as a tank slapper. - bloody strange !
So I cleaned the bike and remembering this thread I checked the spokes the old fashioned way gently tapping each one with a spanner looking for that sweet ping.
5 on the rear wheel and 4 on the front didn't do anything but a dull thud whilst I could actually see them moving!!!! almost half the remaining spokes were suspect just producing a dull pitch.
Now this could all be just a coincidence but just I discussed it with the dealership (who have been very helpful) They suggested I didn't ride the bike anymore so BMW assist has been called and it is now on a transporter on the way to the dealer to be assessed.
Deleted account 191119001
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Having picked the bike up on Tuesday having had missing grub screws refitted and spokes re tensioned, had a great blast out 120miles of mainly Moore’s and passes, got home put the bike away and the phone rings.
Allan Geffries here BMW have asked us to get the bike back and change the rear wheel under warranty. Incidentally 2 of the spokes are a dull thud again now I’ve checked it.
I haven’t chased BMW or reported it to customer services.
Glad they’re sorting it, but I just don’t trust them anymore.
Allan Geffries here BMW have asked us to get the bike back and change the rear wheel under warranty. Incidentally 2 of the spokes are a dull thud again now I’ve checked it.
I haven’t chased BMW or reported it to customer services.
Glad they’re sorting it, but I just don’t trust them anymore.
Can you be more precise......................
Er, ok, I'll give it a go - how's about...
Tools required: Torx wotsit and a teeny tiny Allen key for the grub screws (your dealer may or may not be able to tell you whether you have those). Apply a 1" square (or 25.4 mm square if you voted remain) piece of masking tape to each spoke of both wheels until every spoke has a "flag" you can write on. Don't be tempted to colour these in like various flags of the world, as it is both time consuming and you need to write on them later. Other types of tape may do, but please don't use Gorilla tape, as the Gorilla is an endangered species. Then, starting at the spoke nearest to the valve on the front wheel, number each spoke in a clockwise direction writing a unique number on each masking tape flag with a 'Sharpie' or similar (a pencil will do at a pinch). Give the first spoke the number F01, then move on to F02, and so on until all spokes are numbered. Now do the rear wheel, numbering the spokes R01, R02, etc, in a similar way to the front. Note: If you're unsure which is the rear wheel, it's the one at the back (although this may vary depending on which way you're facing - if you get stuck at this point, ask a responsible adult for help). Next, remove all the odd numbered spokes from both wheels, and keep them as spares or in case you want to put them back for, say, accident investigation purposes. A bag or box marked "spare spokes" and placed in a prominent position in your garage would make things easier for those accident investigation people later on. Both of your wheels are now lighter by 50% of the original spoke weight, which is beneficial to the handling from and unsprung weight perspective and should also increase acceleration and fuel economy.... right up until the wheels collapse as Darwin's natural selection thing kicks in. Disclaimer: the above would be a dangerous thing to do and the very idea of the procedure is absolute bollocks - it only appears here because Smogbob requested more precision after reading some earlier stupidity. DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME!! (Particularly if you're Smogbob).
Oh, and cast wheels would need a hacksaw adding to the tool list.
Deleted account 191119001
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Er, ok, I'll give it a go - how's about...
Tools required: Torx wotsit and a teeny tiny Allen key for the grub screws (your dealer may or may not be able to tell you whether you have those). Apply a 1" square (or 25.4 mm square if you voted remain) piece of masking tape to each spoke of both wheels until every spoke has a "flag" you can write on. Don't be tempted to colour these in like various flags of the world, as it is both time consuming and you need to write on them later. Other types of tape may do, but please don't use Gorilla tape, as the Gorilla is an endangered species. Then, starting at the spoke nearest to the valve on the front wheel, number each spoke in a clockwise direction writing a unique number on each masking tape flag with a 'Sharpie' or similar (a pencil will do at a pinch). Give the first spoke the number F01, then move on to F02, and so on until all spokes are numbered. Now do the rear wheel, numbering the spokes R01, R02, etc, in a similar way to the front. Note: If you're unsure which is the rear wheel, it's the one at the back (although this may vary depending on which way you're facing - if you get stuck at this point, ask a responsible adult for help). Next, remove all the odd numbered spokes from both wheels, and keep them as spares or in case you want to put them back for, say, accident investigation purposes. A bag or box marked "spare spokes" and placed in a prominent position in your garage would make things easier for those accident investigation people later on. Both of your wheels are now lighter by 50% of the original spoke weight, which is beneficial to the handling from and unsprung weight perspective and should also increase acceleration and fuel economy.... right up until the wheels collapse as Darwin's natural selection thing kicks in. Disclaimer: the above would be a dangerous thing to do and the very idea of the procedure is absolute bollocks - it only appears here because Smogbob requested more precision after reading some earlier stupidity. DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME!! (Particularly if you're Smogbob).
Oh, and cast wheels would need a hacksaw adding to the tool list.
Now that makes it a lot clearer, must try this tonight on my alloys.................
roamer
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Not sure but it looks like the grub screws are not stainless but spokes and nipples are,
Does anyone know?
Does anyone know?
Karlos
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I can confirm that the grub screws are not stainless as they rust!
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AberdeenAngus
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Stainless rusts.
Deleted account 191119001
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That is a fact read below, never use wire wool on stainless
https://www.polymersolutions.com/blog/why-does-stainless-steel-rust/
Karlos
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How quickly depends on the grade, for the purposes of this thread, stainless used in the spokes doesn’t readily rust, yet the grub screws as soon as they see water rust.
So technically you are just being a dick.
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Deleted account 191119001
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Yep it takes a long while for spokes to go rusty, unless they are treadted to harsh conditions and lots of salt
AberdeenAngus
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Snigger.
Godzilla
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As Im not very musically talented, how much of a difference is there between the 'ring' of a correctly tightened spoke and the dull thud of a loose one.
Does the size of the spanner make a difference.
Anyone made a video of loose and tight spokes
Does the size of the spanner make a difference.
Anyone made a video of loose and tight spokes
Er, ok, I'll give it a go - how's about...
Tools required: Torx wotsit and a teeny tiny Allen key for the grub screws (your dealer may or may not be able to tell you whether you have those). Apply a 1" square (or 25.4 mm square if you voted remain) piece of masking tape to each spoke of both wheels until every spoke has a "flag" you can write on. Don't be tempted to colour these in like various flags of the world, as it is both time consuming and you need to write on them later. Other types of tape may do, but please don't use Gorilla tape, as the Gorilla is an endangered species. Then, starting at the spoke nearest to the valve on the front wheel, number each spoke in a clockwise direction writing a unique number on each masking tape flag with a 'Sharpie' or similar (a pencil will do at a pinch). Give the first spoke the number F01, then move on to F02, and so on until all spokes are numbered. Now do the rear wheel, numbering the spokes R01, R02, etc, in a similar way to the front. Note: If you're unsure which is the rear wheel, it's the one at the back (although this may vary depending on which way you're facing - if you get stuck at this point, ask a responsible adult for help). Next, remove all the odd numbered spokes from both wheels, and keep them as spares or in case you want to put them back for, say, accident investigation purposes. A bag or box marked "spare spokes" and placed in a prominent position in your garage would make things easier for those accident investigation people later on. Both of your wheels are now lighter by 50% of the original spoke weight, which is beneficial to the handling from and unsprung weight perspective and should also increase acceleration and fuel economy.... right up until the wheels collapse as Darwin's natural selection thing kicks in. Disclaimer: the above would be a dangerous thing to do and the very idea of the procedure is absolute bollocks - it only appears here because Smogbob requested more precision after reading some earlier stupidity. DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME!! (Particularly if you're Smogbob).
Oh, and cast wheels would need a hacksaw adding to the tool list.
Would this not make these bloody wheels 50% easier to clean also.
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