Fitted an www.sol2.be Accelerated Module

Ash

Oh Yes....
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Fitted one of these this afternoon, what a great bit of kit. www.sol2.be €50 posted
When your in traffic at very low speed or off road I spose you have to keep on the clutch as the engine doesn't like it, as the F series tends to be a tad on / off on the throttle, some say the F800GS are the worst.
This little bit of kit has stopped all that & throttle responses is so much Smoother.

Got mine second hand from here.
But now I have one. I would happily buy a new one & definitely recommend one

Its the perfect answer on these "lean fuel mixtures" problems and is an add-on product that adjust the ratio of the fuel mixture to the optimum ratio during mainly the acceleration of the engine. So a richer fuel mixture to accelerate the engine. Also it will helps to start the bike better.

The result is that it creates a smoother power delivery throughout the whole rpm range! (already clearly visible at much lower rpm's compared to the standard configuration, where much less an "on-off" feeling prevails). The engine picks up faster and runs smoother. A clear improvement of a faster throttle response is immediately observed. Also, the KFR (Konstant Fahr Ruckeln) on the BMW boxer engines will in most cases disappear, as this is also a result of using a too lean fuel mixture.
HOW DOES IT WORK .

The module will only work during the open-loop mode. That is de mode where most of the effects of the lean fuel mixture are seen. When cruising, you need less power to keep the desired speed. So the motorcycle doesn't encounter hereby much problems.

It will interact with the IAT device. As explained above, the IAT signal is processed by the ECU module by shifting the entire result from calculating the fuel/air mixture based on RPM and throttle valve position. You can say that the IAT signal acts as a "final" multiplier.

It basically shifts the IAT temperature with -20°C. This means that the ECU or computer is fooled and thinks that the temperature is 20 °C colder than in reality. The result is that more fuel will be injected and that is the goal we want! Why -20°C? Calculations and field proven tests have shown that this gives the engine the best technical performance! You need however to be careful that you don't inject too much fuel. This is the case at temperatures below 0°C! Under 0°C you need to offset the temperature less than 20°C to avoid problems of too rich fuel mixtures which results in bad starting of the engine, too high fuel consumption,...)

To keep the various motorcycle configurations and different temperatures under control, I made a calculation model. I can lay perfectly the offset curve where I want, by using different electronic components. The main component of the ACCELERATOR module™ is a sensor that measures the outside air temperature very well. The other components bent the curve in some temperature ranges, to avoid the problems below zero degrees as mentioned before. The ACCELERATOR module™ is designed to work in all temperature ranges, i.e. from -30°C up to +80°C.
 

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I also fitted a SOL2 Accelerated Module today on my F650GS and what a difference it has made. When I received the parcel today and closely looked at the module I thought "yeah, just 2 plugs & a couple of short lengths of wire" however, the snatchiness at low speed and just off throttle have disappeared.....silky smooth. Worth every euro.
 
I also fitted a SOL2 Accelerated Module today on my F650GS and what a difference it has made. When I received the parcel today and closely looked at the module I thought "yeah, just 2 plugs & a couple of short lengths of wire" however, the snatchiness at low speed and just off throttle have disappeared.....silky smooth. Worth every euro.

I also found the low speed snatch / jerk has disappeared....
 
Left Hungerford, put in curvy roads to Mrs Garmin 395 LM so mixture of A roads & B roads to West Bay Dorsetshire 91 miles.
The 700 with the accelerater model fitted returned 70 MPH at road legal speeds, only once going much above the speed limit.

Left west Bay just put in " go home " into Mrs garmin using quickest route, so all main roads, A35, A354, A343, A34, A4.

No horses were spared, Brisk pace to say the least & on a 5 mile stretch of ( private ) ;) dual carnage way I took her over a 100 MPH, recording my highest ever speed on the Sat Nav at 100 MPH or the bike for that matter.

87 miles & when I got home the fuel Consumption was showing 64 MPG...

The bike is so much Smoother & feels a lot better to ride.
I'm award some will be in my head, but it certainly is a nicer bike for it..

Piccy of sat navs - max speed :green gri
 

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Lock him up and throw away the key :rob







































Nothing to do with the speeding just long overdue :D
 
The 700 with the accelerater model fitted returned 70 MPH at road legal speeds

should of been 70 MPG

Fecking predictive text...
 
I fitted one of these on my 658 and was very happy with the changes, esp. slow speed running - combined with the gearing change the juddering has gone away, and was able to drag engine speed down to 1500rpm in 2nd or 3rd without fear of stalling.
 
Let me start to say that both models work fantastic! With over many thousands modules out there and the very positive reactions of the users, the concept has proven itself. Both versions of the module are made with high quality components, to deal with rough environments when riding the motorcycle.

The compact version came out as the first product on the market. Although very compact, it incorporates the necessary electronics to do the job. (I know that some people may find hard to believe it, but it is true. And I can tell you it is not a fixed resistor as some people do want to believe.) The design criteria was to create a module that is easily to install, to do the job perfectly and in a cost effective manner.

So why create an extension version, I hear you asking. Well some people like to have maximum flexibility and options. The extended versions allows the user to place the sensor on a different , free to choose, location on the motorcycle. The length of the cable is long enough to put the sensor at the front or the rear of the motorcycle, more directly in contact with the ambient air. The construction is very rigid and weather (water, snow,..) resistant. The installation takes a little bit longer than the compact version and the module is more fixed to the motorcycle.
What's the difference between the Extended & Standard versions? Which is best for an F650GS??

Cheers,

D

i got extended version, but i bought a used one,if I'm honest if i was buying new i would get original version..
 
Been there, done that.
It is a resistor. I bought a Booster Plug(£90!) to try to make my K1600GT smoother running.
It worked. For a while.
Put it on my R1200GS. Worked again! Just for not as long.
The idea is to fool the ECU into thinking that it's colder, which it does. But the ECU eventually adapts and leans the mixture again.
The ECU is quite a clever thing.
Of course, you're not going to admit you're a prat later on or else you kid yourself that it's still working.
Still, you can sell it on again. There'll always be someone else who'll believe it.
At least you didn't buy a new one like I did!
By the way. It works on the closed loop of the fueling. This is where most of us spend the vast majority of our time. That's why it's smoother moving off. It's in the closed loop.
The reason the closed loop section is so tightly controlled is because that's where emissions are measured and if you run too rich, it'll destroy the catalytic converter.
If you want a permanent fix that Will transform your bike you need to look at a remap or, better still, an AF XiED unit.
 
Fitted my 700 with it last week after reading this thread (extended version) and I have to say that it works a treat. Much smoother and better pick up from low rpm s I'm now able to change gears a lot less. It generally seems to run smoother and less vibey including when rolling off the throttle. No more stalling from start and much less throttle required for this. Not sure about torque or fuel consumption but it definitely improves the ride a lot and for 40 pound or so it's a real bargain
On my last bike a KTM Duke 390 the fuelling was terrible at low rpms and I bought a Powertronic ECU piggy bag for £200+ which did a very similar job. By comparison the fuelling on the F700 was very good and I wasn't sure if I'll notice a difference but it's very noticeable and for me a nobrainer for the money and super easy to install.
 
Once the O2 sensor in the exhaust starts to sniff a richer mixture in the pipe gases, it'll gradually start to lean of the air/fuel ratio. After a few tankfulls of fuel, the ECU will have the ratio back to where it was before.
It's what it does.
An AF XiED unit alters the signal from the O2 sensor to convince the ECU that the AF ratio is too weak. Again, after a few tankfulls of fuel, the engine has an AF that works perfectly and stays that way. An AF XiED unit works with the ECU.
You can vary the AF ratio slighty, with a small screwdriver. The ECU is clever. :bow
 
Brilliant!! Why ever didn't I think of doing that. :rolleyes:
Right, let's go through this slowly.
You plug in your Booster Plug/Sol2, whatever. The ECU says 'Bloody hell! It's got really cold all of a sudden. Let's adjust the AF ratio to suit'.
All is well for the next few tanks of fuel. Then one day you realise that it's going back to where it was before and you disconnect the Booster Plug.
Now the ECU says that the air temp has jumped by 20 degrees and tries to make it run even weaker than stock to compensate. Ideally, you should reset the ECU with a GS911 at this point.
The ECU, via the O2 sensor, realises that the engine is now running too weak and starts to correct the ratio upwards again.
So that means that if you carry out your plan, the engine will only be running at the optimum AF ratio for about two tanks of fuel per month. Rest of the time it'll be all over the place. :blast
That's why the O2 manipulator (AF Xied) works so well. Rather than trying to fool the ECU by altering the input info (air temp), it alters the output info and tells the ECU that it's doing a great job at keeping the factory set AF ratio where it should be. Except we know that it's a wee bit higher.
To put it simply, the ECU is more likely to believe the O2 sensor output in the exhaust rather than the temp sensor in the air box. It has to protect the catalytic converter from permanent damage, due to too much fuel in the exhaust, in order to keep within the factory designed, emission restrictions.
It's not magic, it's how they're designed.
 


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