exhaust valve problem

The easiest option must be to get the valve in the fully open position and remove the cables, this way it won't stick closed and the motor does its thing so you don't get any faults on the dash.

I did this on my TC GS and used plastic number plate bolts to fill the cable entry holes on the motor.

You probably won't even notice the difference but it won't stick and won't cause you any problems.

Works a treat and costs nothing (you can get the number plate screws from NCP car spares)
 
The easiest option must be to get the valve in the fully open position and remove the cables, this way it won't stick closed and the motor does its thing so you don't get any faults on the dash.

I did this on my TC GS and used plastic number plate bolts to fill the cable entry holes on the motor.

You probably won't even notice the difference but it won't stick and won't cause you any problems.

Works a treat and costs nothing (you can get the number plate screws from NCP car spares)

Yes that would work and would be the route I would have followed if BMW hadn't agreed to replace it. But the flap will always show up as a fault code when you get the bike serviced (if you do get it dealer serviced) and I'm wondering when you trade, if they are going to knock you down because the bike would need £1200 of exhaust.
 
Yes that would work and would be the route I would have followed if BMW hadn't agreed to replace it. But the flap will always show up as a fault code when you get the bike serviced (if you do get it dealer serviced) and I'm wondering when you trade, if they are going to knock you down because the bike would need £1200 of exhaust.

That is a very good point as they often offer low prices as trade in figures and any excuse for them !!!!
Any back from a 100 mile trip and no squeak as yet - that is 3 times as far as the £40 bmw dealer repair. I will keep you updated as and when ' Mr Squeak ' appears again . However I looked this morning inside the exhaust pipe before I put the silencer on and all the silicone spray had evaporated and a fine layer of copper dust remained- ideal.
 
Yes that would work and would be the route I would have followed if BMW hadn't agreed to replace it. But the flap will always show up as a fault code when you get the bike serviced (if you do get it dealer serviced) and I'm wondering when you trade, if they are going to knock you down because the bike would need £1200 of exhaust.

Not an RT but on my 2011TB GS disconnecting the cables didn't bring up any faults at all, the motor is still connected and operates, it's just not connected to the flap.

I would be really surprised if the RT was any different.
 
Not an RT but on my 2011TB GS disconnecting the cables didn't bring up any faults at all, the motor is still connected and operates, it's just not connected to the flap.

I would be really surprised if the RT was any different.

That might work :) On startup the flap goes through a check, if you switch on the ignition, you can hear it open and close. If it doesn't move it throws a fault code, so when the dealer plugs in, the fault code shows. Thats how they found mine was stuck, I hadn't noticed as it was stuck open. Now if you disconnect the cables from the flap, I guess the actuator would still move, so in that case I assume the ECU wouldn't know any different, unless of course its the actual flap that sends the signal, so if its not there or doesn't move, then a fault would be shown.
 
Reply from Harry Fairbairns BMW Inverness about my stuck exhaust flap

After your recent visit our bike technician noted that there was a fault stored for the exhaust flap, partially seized. My warranty clerk has been on the phone to BMW insured warranty to ask if this is covered and it is not unfortunately . After speaking to Brian the bike technician he said it may free off which would be half an hour to an*hours labour, if this does not free off it will require a new exhaust manifold.


I'll have another go later on but I'll not be getting an exhaust manifold thank you mr BMW.
 
Hmm, sounds like you paying for an hour's labour for them to fob you off.
I've worked at the same thing on my TC flappy. They might get it freed up, for a while.
I would put money on it being similar to the TC and it uses a composite carbon bush. I got mine freed up after grinding the end off the bushing cover and then a lot of fiddling, but have no confidence in it not seizing again. Oil or similar isn't a permanent fix.
If BMW aren't putting their hand in their pockets, I'd be inclined to make sure it's open and disconnect the cables.
Not very satisfactory but cheap!
 
How do you ensure it's open before disconnecting it ?


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I don't see a potentiometer on the exhaust flap, so the ecu is not aware of the real-time position of the flap.

It's likely that the ecu senses the current through the flap motor, and over current equates to a stuck flap.

Any oil based lube will burn off in a few minutes, it is worth trying a high moly paste as we would use on final drive splines.

This retains the lubricity from the fine moly particles - Honda Moly 60 is good.
 
The problem lubing it remains the same no matter what you use, getting it to where it needs to be.
The bush it sits in, is meant to be sealed for life. Just happens to be too short a life!
If you remove the plastic cover you'll see where the cables are attached to the pully. Remove the cables and try to move the pully with pliers or similar. There's no certain way to know if the flap is fully open unless you remove the silencer, although it'll sound deeper when you start up.
If you can get it open, it'll stay that way. It's got a spring and the default is open. Unless it's seized!!
 
So when I turn the ignition on but before I start the bike will be open then ??


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You should hear it making a clear, clicking noise before you start the engine.
Or, you may just hear a noise like it's straining to move. You'll know the difference.
Or remove the silencer to make sure its opening completely.
 
Easiest way is remove the silencer a 5 minute job at worst, very easy job, the flap is there right in front of you.

Two screws one is a pig to get out, and the plastic cover is off with the cables right there. Mine stuck open and with molegrips I can move it only 5 - 10mm, so I'm leaving mine as is.

Should I disconnect the cables though ???
 
Yes, the flap is now redundant.

The flap motor may eventually burn out due to the exessive load on startup - disconnecting it will preserve the motor in case you or a subsequent owner wish to reinstate the valve.

Also, this will stop the error code produced on startup due to excess current draw.
 
But don't tell the dealer you sell it to that it needs £1200 of exhaust. But if selling to a private seller, you might mention it.
 
But don't tell the dealer you sell it to that it needs £1200 of exhaust. But if selling to a private seller, you might mention it.

Would you be as happy if a dealer withheld information to you about a previous history of a bike?
 
Reply from Harry Fairbairns BMW Inverness about my stuck exhaust flap

After your recent visit our bike technician noted that there was a fault stored for the exhaust flap, partially seized. My warranty clerk has been on the phone to BMW insured warranty to ask if this is covered and it is not unfortunately . After speaking to Brian the bike technician he said it may free off which would be half an hour to an*hours labour, if this does not free off it will require a new exhaust manifold.


I'll have another go later on but I'll not be getting an exhaust manifold thank you mr BMW.

Sounds to me that the hour of labour would be better going to Nippy Norman as comberjohn suggested :) When I look at the bills for my cars and bikes it's invariably the labour that's scarier than the parts...
 
Unfortunately, it's not as easy as going to Nippy Normans for a replacement pipe, as with a TC.
With the LC, it's part of the headers. £1200, I think?
Options are to make sure the flap is fully open and remove the cables or replace with de cat headers. Cheaper than the new BMW part.
It will be a bit noisier for normal driving. The de cat headers will be slightly noisier again.
I like the flappy valve when it's working and haven't given up on making mine work.
 
Hi Terry
did you get 100% warranty payment as just be quoted 80% 20 split which is still an eye watering 350 to pay
 


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