exhaust valve problem

byron

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Over the past six months my water called RT has developed a pronounce squeak from exhaust valve . My local BMW dealer has told me is not covered by warranty as it is part of the exhaust and for the sum of £60 greased it for me whilst it was having its third service last month. The valve lasted for a ride home and then started sweaking again, however yesterday squeak became very noticeable during a long ride from Dorset to the west Welsh coast and back. This morning I took the valve cover off and squirted copious amounts of WD-40 on it all seem fine for about an hour and then the squeak reappeared. Has anybody managed to sort the problem out or does it matter if it squeaks.
If I take the silencer off is the valve exposed to let me put something like copper slip or a graphite based grease or even a graphite grease spray on the shaft and bearing surfaces . I have also enclosed two photos . I would like it sorted as I'm off to Portugal next month for 15 days on it.

Thanks in advance
 
Assume this will befall me soon with same bike.

What/where is the noise coming from? Is it the cable, or a spring or from inside the valve itself?

Also is it more pronounced when the engine has warmed up the exhaust?

This might give you a suggestion as what could be a course of action...


Or here


And finally...

To keep in with the normal etiquette of the site, I'd also strongly suggest you get the dealer/BMW/Donald Trump to fixtas the barrack room lawyers will confirm your legal rights,and it ain't right, and also if you are married suggest you divorce her/him, lock them in the shed or ascert your many rights....
 
the sqeak is due to it getting tighter in the housing corrosion and carbon build up, no amount of lube will cure it as it simply burns off, and if lube could penetrate then exhaust gasses could also escape.

basically the valve will eventually seize and stop working as did mine on MY GS my exhaust complete was replaced under warranty last week.

find another dealer yours is telling porkys

Terry
 
Funny thing is coincidence, I've just had mine serviced, 2014 RT. I was told mine had partially seized, and he'd released it for now, but really needs replacing. I pay the extended warranty so they are going to let me know if it's covered and when it can be done.
I'm off on France/Belgium battlefields tour next Thursday so no chance of getting it done before then. What happens if it seizes ? does it choke the exhaust ?
 
I had the same thing exhaust valve seized at the 6k point around June last year on my 2014 RT. Had extended warranty, but exhaust not covered by that. Replacement exhaust around £1200. Dealer took it up with BMW, they replaced as a goodwill gesture, I had to pay £60 which now gives me another 2 year warranty. If you don't make a contribution, there is no guarantee. My mate had his replaced a couple of months ago on a 2015 RT, but he had done around 15k

If they do not replace and its stuck open, leave it, or bosh it out, it doesn't impact performance. But every time you take it to the dealer it will show up as a fault code when they plug the bike in.

So push for a replacement from Mr BMW, because they obviously know its an issue and a crap design.
 
If it is a carbon build up, can you not strip the valve out of the exhaust and clean/polish the offending part of the valve, spindle and bush (?) and re-assemble. After all it must have been in that condition when at 0 miles:nenau
 
My local Bmw dealer (CW in Dorchester) have twice told me there is nothing that they can do for me with the extended warranty as the exhaust is not covered. I bought the bike privately at 13 moths old so I expect they feel they are not duty bound to support me. Has anyone deal directly with BMW uk with any success?
Also has anyone cleaned out the inside of the pipe to remove the carbon and was it successful?
 
I don't have an LC, but might be able to shed some light on it after my experience with my hexhead GS TC.
The exhaust valve, or flappy valve, looks very similar to mine. Mine worked fine until recently, when, at 40k miles, it sounded like it was straining instead of clicking when I turned the ignition on.
I replaced it with a stainless section from nippy Normans, made specially for that purpose. Makes it slightly louder but fine otherwise. Some like it a bit louder anyway.
But I was curious why it had seized. Very little carbon build up inside the pipe, even after 40k, so it wasn't that.
Squirted WD40 everywhere. No effect.
Using an angle grinder, I removed the crimped end on the opposite end of the flap shaft to the pully. Couple of pics to show what I found.
That end of the shaft is supported by a bush made from what appears to be some kind of composite carbon material. I'm guessing this is supposed to be self lubricating but after a while it seems to stop doing that. Maybe a build up of exhaust dust, etc.
I drilled a few very small holes around it and was able to get some WD40 in. Freed up fairly quickly after that. No easy way to get lubrication in otherwise.
There's no issue with the pully end of the pivot shaft once you get that end moving.
It will eventually size solid. I've sealed up the end again, but don't think I'll bother refitting it.
So, I've no answers for you as it doesn't look like you can replace your flappy with a piece of stainless pipe.
Must admit, I'd be a bit narked with BMW's attitude to it.
Couple of options if you don't mind a slightly deeper exhaust note.
Make sure the flap is fully open and unplug the servo. It'll show a fault at service time, but no lights come on on the dash.
Remove the actuating cables and wedge the flap in the open position. Might show up at the service, but still no light.
 

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My local Bmw dealer (CW in Dorchester) have twice told me there is nothing that they can do for me with the extended warranty as the exhaust is not covered. I bought the bike privately at 13 moths old so I expect they feel they are not duty bound to support me. Has anyone deal directly with BMW uk with any success?
Also has anyone cleaned out the inside of the pipe to remove the carbon and was it successful?

Funny CW are normally very good. I bought my 2014 privately, the bike had the extended warranty and was out of manufacturers warranty by 3 months. At the time Barhnstormer at Alton were doing the servicing for me and they went to BMW to get authorisation to get the exhaust changed. That is the same dealer that my mate had his 2015 bike sorted with the same issue, although he did buy his new from them. I now go to CW, so as I said I'm surprised as they are normally very good. Maybe go back to Gareth at CW and tell him my story, he knows me so happy to talk to him if you get nowhere.
 
So is that part removable completely ?? I haven't had time to take silencer off yet to look, but will do tomorrow. I was out on Friday and could feel the bike hesitating on acceleration which I assumed was the valve stuck in closed position ?
As I'm off for a 2,000 mile trip I can't be having this, so I'll look at it to see what I can do.
 
So is that part removable completely ?? I haven't had time to take silencer off yet to look, but will do tomorrow. I was out on Friday and could feel the bike hesitating on acceleration which I assumed was the valve stuck in closed position ?
As I'm off for a 2,000 mile trip I can't be having this, so I'll look at it to see what I can do.

Not on the LC, its built into the headers. The valve resting position is fully open, so normally they stick open and will not cause any hesitation. Just whip the silencer off and have a look. When you switch on the ignition the flap should close and open as a startup check.
 
I had same problem on my TC 90th GSA 12 months ago. It was out of warranty. Vines managed to get BMW to cover the parts and I paid for labour. However it is starting to squeak again...
Numpty question but do aftermarket exhausts such as Akrapovic also have this issue or is it totally separate and only replace parts after this fall valve?
 
I had same problem on my TC 90th GSA 12 months ago. It was out of warranty. Vines managed to get BMW to cover the parts and I paid for labour. However it is starting to squeak again...
Numpty question but do aftermarket exhausts such as Akrapovic also have this issue or is it totally separate and only replace parts after this fall valve?

Normally aftermarket headers do not have the flap or in some cases no cat. So you are removing the problem, but you will probably need a re-map and if emissions ever comes into the MOT you will end up having to stick the OEM exhaust back on.
 
Thanks. It sounds like if it fails again it is the way to go.
Regarding re-mapping and MOT test, I ask with great trepidation... Akrapovic and Hilltop passes MOT tests without having to reinstall the OEM exhaust back on..?
Please be gentle...

Normally aftermarket headers do not have the flap or in some cases no cat. So you are removing the problem, but you will probably need a re-map and if emissions ever comes into the MOT you will end up having to stick the OEM exhaust back on.
 
Thanks. It sounds like if it fails again it is the way to go.
Regarding re-mapping and MOT test, I ask with great trepidation... Akrapovic and Hilltop passes MOT tests without having to reinstall the OEM exhaust back on..?
Please be gentle...

Yes, Akrapovic is EU approved exhaust, and if you have your bike mapped it won't impact the MOT as there is no emissions test for motorcycles at present, but decent mapping should improve emissions anyway. The issue if emissions were taken would be if you removed the cat etc by having new headers. But they don't so as long as its not ear splitting loud, you will be ok
 
Not on the LC, its built into the headers. The valve resting position is fully open, so normally they stick open and will not cause any hesitation. Just whip the silencer off and have a look. When you switch on the ignition the flap should close and open as a startup check.

Thanks, I had a look today, it is indeed part of the exhaust. The flap cables on mine move about 10mm, but as it's stuck in the open position I'm going to put it back together and stop worrying about it. Sure is loud when started up without the silencer on !!
 
I have just had a go at the valve tonight with a quick disassembly of the valve shield and cover, together with the removal of the silencer . I went to Halfords and bought a tin of copper grease spray and a new tub of copper grease. Anyway I have sprayed both inside and outside of the valve with copper grease and then squirted copper slip through a needle and syringe on to the shaft / bearing interface. I will reassemble in the morning and go for a ride and switch the bike on and off a few time and see what happen. I am also planning to take both the tools and the and the aerosol and grease with me to Spain and Portugal next month . When the dealers did it for me the other day it was squeaking again after 30 miles - anything will be an improvement!!!!!!
 
Thanks. It sounds like if it fails again it is the way to go.
Regarding re-mapping and MOT test, I ask with great trepidation... Akrapovic and Hilltop passes MOT tests without having to reinstall the OEM exhaust back on..?
Please be gentle...

I'm assuming that your talking about your TC.
Firstly, you can replace the flappy valve with a piece of stainless steel or, like I did, buy it from nippy Normans. Makes the exhaust slightly deeper but not unpleasant.
It's not necessary to have a re map for minor changes like an exhaust. BTW, the akro will give exactly the same performance as the stock exhaust. Most aftermarket pipes will reduce your power output, despite being noisier. The stock silencer is very well designed. Go for a set of de cat headers and you'll get a modest power improvement and slightly more noise.
I have my TC set up with the standard exhaust with the nippy Norman piece of stainless pipe.
For a good increase in all around driveability a re map is good, preferably hilltop. I disagree that a re map will help emissions. If it did, then BMW wouldn't have them set so lean running in the first place, would they?
I looked at hilltop but decided on a different course of action and have been very pleased with the results. AF XiED units which are O2 manipulators. Similar results to a re map, but easily reversible. Can be removed easily at trade in time, too.
Might be handy if they ever do tighten up on emissions for the mot test. In Northern Ireland, it's a government department that carry out the mot test.
You can read about my experiences and others who have tried them on this thread. http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php/418381-Standard-vs-PCV-vs-AF-XIED
Quite a few LC owners have reported good results with the AF XiED units on advrider.com.
 
Thanks for those links 'siparry' as they are a good option if the flap fails. However please remember that this thread is about 1200rt wc where the valve is not a separate unit.!
 


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