Wilburs Advice

I know you weren't. The rear regulator is a bit chunky but hadn't realised there was so much crap around the front original shock.
The rear unit should be a dawdle after the front.
 
Well, all finished and tested this afternoon. Roads were busy with temperatures in the 20's but got a chance to try them out on quieter roads.
Felt different as soon I took it of the stand and already knew the back was slightly higher before I threw my leg over.
I have a lower stock seat and would say that its about an inch higher. Steering felt fractionally quicker, too. But soon adjusted to it.
There's adjustment at the bottom of the rear shock if needed, but couldn't face the hassle at the moment!
They're definitely firmer than the stock ESA. I would say that the WP equivalent of 'Normal' is 'Comfort', approx one step higher.
The Comfort setting is going to be the most popular with me. Good control over bumpy surfaces and twisty roads.
Normal is good, but better on smoother roads. The Sport setting is a bit firm for the road, maybe for a track day.
There's adjustment collars on the units, but I think I'll leave well alone.
They do make you feel much more confident on the road and so far, I'm well pleased with my purchase. The components do seem to have a well made feel to them and would imagine that they're rebuildable easily enough, when the time comes. Can't see me putting the stock ones back now.
As Bendy commented on another thread recently, I am not in a hurry to repeat the swop of units for a while. Although I learnt a lot about the bike, itself.
If you are ever removing or replacing the nut on the top of the front shock, put a cloth around it first.
That'll mean you won't have to remove the alternator drive cover to find it again. :anger:
Also, when they casually say in the instructions and Haynes manual that you remove the top and bottom bolts on the rear shock and lift it out. They lie!!
Half an hour with WD40 and tapping up and down with a big hammer first.
Two weeks ago I'd no idea that these things existed but at £630 for a brand new ESA set of shocks, I'm happy enough.
Some pics. Look sexy, don't they? More than the rider anyway. Springs are similar colour to the wheels.
 

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The front ESA motor looks like my Showa unit.

BMW used thread lock on most of their fasteners. Heat to >100C with a heat gun and they come off easily. Take care with nearby paint and plastics.

Corrosion under the alternator cover and engine top oil very common. While you have it apart it's only a few minutes extra to remove the plastic cover and have a look.

I could not get my front shock off the bike without disconnecting the front ball joint. Be prepared with the bike on a proper stand. Again, heat is needed.
 
The mounting bolts came out with no problem. Could see some thread lock on them, but no issues.
Used a little on the threads when replacing and torqued up to spec.
Was able to manoeuvre the front shock out by removing the rear wheel and then pushing a tool box under the bash plate. Gave me enough height to get the shock out. Heavy bugger.
Think mine are Showas, too. Silver, rather than white springs.
I'll leave refurbishing the front cover until next winter. Not that bad at the moment.
Seen 23C on Sunday and it's spent enough time in the shed getting the shocks changed.
 
The mounting bolts came out with no problem. Could see some thread lock on them, but no issues.
Used a little on the threads when replacing and torqued up to spec.
Was able to manoeuvre the front shock out by removing the rear wheel and then pushing a tool box under the bash plate. Gave me enough height to get the shock out. Heavy bugger.
Think mine are Showas, too. Silver, rather than white springs.
I'll leave refurbishing the front cover until next winter. Not that bad at the moment.
Seen 23C on Sunday and it's spent enough time in the shed getting the shocks changed.

Mine are definitely Showa shocks. The rear was quite easy to remove though tight in the swing arm. The front was hopeless until I disconnected the ball joint and pulled out the pivot pin. Then very easy so worth doing. Supporting the bike could be an issue for some people.

I mentioned the engine front cover because access is easy with all the bodywork out of the way. Mine and my brother's bikes looked a bit cruddy around the engine bolts but not horrendous. But when we took the alternator belt cover off it was a shocking mess underneath. Most of the paint had flaked off and all in areas supposedly hidden from salt etc. After chemical stripping it was clear the corrosion had tracked a long way under the OEM paint.

Don't forget that Wilbers warranty requires the shocks to be serviced every 15,000 miles so high mileage bikers could be taking them off the bike every year and returning to Revs.

Thanks for the spring/damping info. I basically want the same spring rate as standard GSA so will quiz them carefully on recommended springs. I'm also going for the 35mm lower ride height.
 
Had a set wilbers fitted by Revs yesterday. Bigger difference in sport, normal, comfort setting and seat a bit higher than was in standard "single helmet" setting. Probably due to old spring sagging at 50 odd thou miles.
Only 80 miles of MWay so far so off to try some twisty stuff at weekend see how it copes. Only 4 weeks till proper test, fully loaded in the Picos:thumb
 

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Don't forget that Wilbers warranty requires the shocks to be serviced every 15,000 miles so high mileage bikers could be taking them off the bike every year and returning to Revs.

Not a criticism btw. Expecting any shock to last 30K miles without a service is expecting way too much.
 
Read somewhere that it's recommended to have a wilbers shock rebuilt between 20-30k miles, depending on usage.
Suppose all road work will give the shock an easier time than a higher mix of rough terrain.
 
A very interesting thread. Thanks to all who have posted...............:beerjug:
 
I'll add to this when I receive my new shocks. I wanted to move away from ESA, as I prefer to have more control over the settings. After much research, I decided on Tractive (Touratech). Still waiting for them to be delivered!

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Read somewhere that it's recommended to have a wilbers shock rebuilt between 20-30k miles, depending on usage.
Suppose all road work will give the shock an easier time than a higher mix of rough terrain.

Wilbers require a 15K rebuild to keep the warranty running. It's what amounts to an oil change and new oil seal.
 
I'll add to this when I receive my new shocks. I wanted to move away from ESA, as I prefer to have more control over the settings. After much research, I decided on Tractive (Touratech). Still waiting for them to be delivered!

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Are there the ones that look like WESA-X by Wilbers?
 
No.... Nothing like!
Completely manual only adjustment. Masses of preload range, high and low speed compression, hefty construction, and 30k service interval. Proper separation of oil and air too, even on the basic version.

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The Touratech (Tractive) shocks have arrived, and they look superb. Hopefully get some time to work on my own bike today; I'll get some comparison pictures done later. The build quality looks good; quality anodizing, positive adjusters, etc.

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The Touratech (Tractive) shocks have arrived, and they look superb. Hopefully get some time to work on my own bike today; I'll get some comparison pictures done later. The build quality looks good; quality anodizing, positive adjusters, etc.

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How's it going? Big hammer out yet?
 
The Touratech (Tractive) shocks have arrived, and they look superb. Hopefully get some time to work on my own bike today; I'll get some comparison pictures done later. The build quality looks good; quality anodizing, positive adjusters, etc.

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I think these look pretty interesting, please let us know how you get on...

I found an interesting link with a short write up and video: http://www.brake-magazine.com/rated-touratech-tractive-suspension/
 
Old shocks and new shocks!
Front one was an involving job; the rear easy. The shafts are much wider, and the fro the spring is shorter but wider than the old items.
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Sorry, posted too soon!
I'll get some pics of them installed and report on their performance after I've got a few miles on them.
Certainly happy with the apparent build quality.

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They look great Stanley, looking forward to hear how you get on because there isn't a lot of info online...
I've been thinking about ordering a Rallye without the new adaptive suspension and putting the money towards some of those beauties instead
 
Good find john, i had a set of manual WP shocks on my 1150 gsa, then swapped them to a 1200 tc gsa, great ride and build quality,
Roamer,
 


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