2016 gsa rust issue

Warlord said:
I'm in the UK and used to live by the sea. Any exposed metalwork (or thinly painted) would rust quickly as air is filled with salt all the time.

Corrosion or rusting is an electrochemical reaction requiring oxygen, water and an electrolyte like salt (to allow conduction to take place). The warmer the water, the faster the conduction (corrosion).

Some hard tap water has salt present, so I've always used car wash with rust inhibitor in it. That helps a bit. I also use car wax in places and ACF50 on bolts and difficult exposed areas.

I've also riden brand new bikes through winter salted roads and they take weeks to rust badly if you leave salt water on them, for even a few days in a garage. So months would look really bad. Once that paint coating is breached it'll rust very quick.

Salt damages bikes quickly if left unattended and will damage alloys (oxidization), chains, bolts and steel frames quickly even when washed regularly.

Its why Road Bridges spanning salt water need to be painted constantly to prevent corrosion.

Your pictures look like salt damage to me. Where a bike has been exposed to sea salt, from the air, riden on the beach, or riden through wet salted conditions. Just wet roads near the sea will be enough.

I've also had alloy framed fairing bikes like VFR1200 that weathered well (except brakes siezing with salt damage). So some bikes are built more hardened to corrosion naturally from materials used.

If salt exposure, must wash it immediately with cold water (not warm water as it expedites the electro chemical reaction with salt). Even then once salt takes hold its difficult to stop rust.

At the end of winter I have to regularly go around and repaint (touch up rust spots) on my steel framed Bandit 1250 with black smooth direct to rust Hammerite paint. To keep on top of it. Its the way it is.. not quite a road bridge but same principle.

Salt, water and bikes dont mix well.

Just my experience.
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That is solid info, I am a chemist. That being said my second BMW had been in those conditions for 2 years before I bought this one. For the 3 years before that it was ridden in snow in the north of the US.
That bike is half as bad. Either they changed the paint, or the prep.

If the paint was properly applied it would last many years. They make boats of steel, and the paint can last a decade before they have an issue.
I take my jeep wrangler on the beach, and it is a 2013, and the frame looks mint. I dont even wash it but once every 6 months.
 
I have not even offroaded it. I was riding on dirt roads one day, this is the worst the bike has ever been.
16825804_10211954212358724_1475232312035762521_o.jpg
 
scoobert said:
5-6 times at the car wash. Its amazing how much car washing $10 gets you on a motorcycle.
Who is Justin?
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Do you know what products they use at the car wash, as car washes here use acid based cleaning products?
 
scoobert said:
5-6 times at the car wash. Its amazing how much car washing $10 gets you on a motorcycle.
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(By the way, I'm not trying to be argumentative, just trying to help provide an explanation).

Car washes can use detergents in their washes. This will strip any protective wax off the paint and usually contain Hydrofluoric acid (HF) as a common ingredient. Its in car wash cleaning solutions mainly because it is highly effective and relatively cheap.

So even if you ride once through salt water, leave it for a month, then wash it with Hydrofluoric acid based detergent.... ouch.

I know you have other machines that have faired better, but on this bike in particular its not just painted surfaces that have bad corrosion. Your exhaust headers, bolts, frame, engine guards.. The whole bike has suffered.

Anyways good luck with your claim :beerjug:
 
I would suggest you acknowledge you may be living in high corrosive environment and take preventative measures.

Rince down with hosepipe cold water (not jet wash) after every ride and at least weekly.

Use Rust inhibitor car wash, by hand.

Use car wax on painted surfaces.

Use ACF50 Advanced Protection on metalwork and everything else except keep it off brake disks and pads, tyres, seat, and hand grips.

Then keep up a nice regular washing routine and go enjoy your bike.
 
Warlord said:
I would suggest you acknowledge you may be living in high corrosive environment and take preventative measures.

Rince down with hosepipe cold water (not jet wash) after every ride and at least weekly.

Use Rust inhibitor car wash, by hand.

Use car wax on painted surfaces.

Use ACF50 Advanced Protection on metalwork and everything else except keep it off brake disks and pads, tyres, seat, and hand grips.

Then keep up a nice regular washing routine and go enjoy your bike.
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I do not have, nor have I ever had such facilities at my disposal. I also ride 50 miles a day to work on it.
Salt air yes, but it rarely rains here. https://rainfall.weatherdb.com/l/22770/Saint-Augustine-Florida

20160830_150731_zpsfj87m6aq.jpg
 
Engineer said:
That looks like it's been sprayed with salt water and left for weeks - I have never seen rust like that on the upper stainless section of the forks before.
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That makes two of us.
For fun I took this photo of the 2011 gs. Please keep in mind this bike sat in the snow for 3 winters, and the woods for one full year.
20170504_080941_zpsx8ez9der.jpg

20170504_080933_zps0snmjbfm.jpg

10898263_10207736022546615_188434759480588078_n.jpg


Warlord said:
Ok fair enough.

Do you get high humidity in Florida (never been there).

Hot moist air and salt mix?
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Its odd that you ask this question. I bought the bike in the fall, and it has not been hot or humid yet.
The heat is about 1-2 months away.
 
I bought a RT a while back and then sold it before I even reached 500 miles as I hated it but that's a different story. The bike was an ex-demo bike. I got it from a BMW dealer who assured me it was in brilliant condition so I foolishly 'bought at distance'. Anyway I discovered lots of corrosion so sent it back. They discussed the issues and ended up replacing the engine, the final drive and forks (they were corroded similarly to your fork). At 7 months old your dealer won't have much choice but to sort it out. It's a sad truth but BMW bikes seem to corrode badly sometimes.
Get yourself a loan bike from your dealer to enjoy whilst yours is fixed, then enjoy an almost new bike when you get yours back. Shouldn't happen I know but it has so simply get it sorted, let the dealer have the problem.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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