2016 gsa rust issue

I used the local poles to wash my car and they sprayed the alloy wheels and jet washed them. 48 hours later and the protective lacquer had disappeared and the alloys etched.
 
It's the owners fault ?.... Really ?

The machine should be built to withstand the elements. After all, that's it's operating enviroment come rain or shine. If it rots/rusts in under five years, then it hasn't been built for purpose.

Fuck AC50/WD40. Why should the customer have to stop the corrosion ?... It should be built in to the machine in the first place. After all, we are paying for a quality unlike any other if you listen to BMW.
 
It's the owners fault ?.... Really ?

The machine should be built to withstand the elements. After all, that's it's operating enviroment come rain or shine. If it rots/rusts in under five years, then it hasn't been built for purpose.

Fuck AC50/WD40. Why should the customer have to stop the corrosion ?... It should be built in to the machine in the first place. After all, we are paying for a quality unlike any other if you listen to BMW.

So.. you are getting quality unlike any other. Should have checked first which end of the spectrum they were referring to before you handed over your cheque.

Haha

Like I said, they need to build a version called Extreme Environment. Galvanized frame, stainless steel everything, hasmat suit and 20 year Chernobyl Warranty.

For everyone else who looks after their stuff, carry on. it isn't difficult. :thumb
 
So.. you are getting quality unlike any other. Should have checked first which end of the spectrum they were referring to before you handed over your cheque.

Haha

Like I said, they need to build a version called Extreme Environment. Galvanized frame, stainless steel everything, hasmat suit and 20 year Chernobyl Warranty.

For everyone else who looks after their stuff, carry on. it isn't difficult. :thumb

Wrong ! !...... No need to build a Extreme Environment model............... Just one that can survive of bit of wet weather, which includes salted roads. Other manufacturers seem to manage it.

FYI.... My first 14 plate GS was brand new and well treated/cleaned, just like all of my bikes have been, but the paint still fell off the engine ! !
 
As bikers we know that our toys are astheticlly less durable than cars that is why there are so many posts about what products do you use to protect it.
It is well known that hand wash car cleaners use strong chemicals to speed up the cleaning process by stripping away any oil or grease, that combined with living about a hundred yards from salt water with coastal winds that are always present you are asking for trouble. Yes the paint etc is not very thick but some basic TLC will work wonders.
Take your nice new car and give the alloy engine block the same treatment over the same time period and it will be covered in white fur.
If the bike had never been cleaned since the OP bought it i wonder how much corrosion it would have suffered.
 
So let me get this right.

You want a Go Anywhere, Do anything bike.

That can withstand all kinds of chemical attack and weather conditions.

But look like you've gone nowhere and done nothing at the end of a 10 year ownership.

Oh and you ain't fecking cleaning anything in the meantime, so try harder, its got to look pristine.

Ok then....
 
I definitely blame the hand car wash guys. Looking at the areas covered, that will have been caused by a high pressure washer blasting acidic products all over the bike. You've told us the products they say they use, but are you 100% sure that they've never used any other products?

You're dead right Nutty, I take my car to the Eastern European hand-wash lads, and I've noticed that the wash they use contains Hydrochloric acid and if I have the car interior fan on and I'm in the queue too long I can smell the acid in the wash.

I've read the mix which is on the container labels, it clear says contains Hydrochloric acid, so it maybe okay for a car but not a bike...well not mine!
 
You're dead right Nutty, I take my car to the Eastern European hand-wash lads, and I've noticed that the wash they use contains Hydrochloric acid and if I have the car interior fan on and I'm in the queue too long I can smell the acid in the wash.

I've read the mix which is on the container labels, it clear says contains Hydrochloric acid, so it maybe okay for a car but not a bike...well not mine!

Exactly.:thumb

It doesn't take Einstein to work out that hand car washes that charge £6 or £7 NEED to cut corners to wash vehicles quickly. As soon as the customer has driven/ ridden off, it ain't there problem any more. Win win for them.

I pay someone £20 to come to the house and do the car inside and out, once a month. He only uses auto glym products. Money well spent.
 
Its this you dont want.... same as that bloody Snow Foam.

Jet Wash Foam

http://www.britishchemicalproducts.co.uk/product.asp?s=oXypir1843671&P_ID=161&strPageHistory=related

Forecourt jet wash detergent

Premier Hi-Foam Jet Wash Shampoo
Caustic based non-ionic detergent blend it is an economical and highly effective traffic film remover for use by professional car wash operators in forecourt jetwashes.

caustic

ˈkɔːstɪk,ˈkɒstɪk/Submit
adjective
1. able to burn or corrode organic tissue by chemical action.
"a caustic cleaner"
 
Keep away from Jet Washers or blast the foam cycle onto the ground.

Rinse bike with water only, wipe with microfibre cloth and keep water pressure 4 feet away from bike, if you have to use them at all.

That's my suggestion.

Ideally hand wash with rust inhibitor waxed car wash. :beerjug:
 
3 year old bike and no corrosion on mine. What am I doing wrong? I use Autoglym and Bilthamber products. Haven't had ACF50 or FS360 near mine since I owned it.

Ok, I have to concede, the centre stand has paint missing from the road gravel but that will happen to any bike.
 
Say you bought a brand new BMW R1200 GSA and was told to get the bike into THAT condition in 7 months.. (for whatever reason you might imagine).



To do it, I'd have to jet wash it in detergent to remove any wax or grease protection.

Ride it through warm salt mixed water at least every two weeks and leave it unwashed. Trying to keep any water on it warm for as long as possible.

Then jet wash it in detergent every month just to expose any flaking paint or plating.

Then keep exposing it to warm salt mixed water.

It'd be a challenge though in that time.

But as the OP is a Chemist he would know the fastest possible route. Pity he didn't apply his knowledge to save the bike. It didn't happen overnight.

Does not take a chemist to know a paint stripper would do the job overnight, followed by salty brine and a heat lamp. I could have it looking worse then that in an evening.
Prevention on the other hand is more of an issue. My first BMW had no such issue as this, and I was not ready for an issue. By the time rust had started to seep thru the main frame on the bike, it was too late.
If I knew then what I know now, I would have had the bike stripped to bare metal and applied a two part epoxy over a good steel primer. Would have cost $2000 to do, but it would have been worth it.
Going forward, I would recommend that BMW make more portions of the bike out of high tech materials, rather then steel. Magnesium would be great! I mean this is an offroad bike for goodness sake, not a street cruiser. People other then me will end up taking it off road, nicking the paint, and having rust issues without the paint failing.
 
I seem to notice that people are saying the owner is at fault, and the bike was built fine. If that was the case all the car hoods here in florida would be covered in rust after the first year. The truth is 10 years, and they look new.
Its not something I did or did not do, its bad engineering. 2 part epoxy paint would add about $40 to the cost of a new bike. I think this goes beyond that thou. I think it is a surface prep issue. As the welds are ALL rusting. If the welds are rusting, that tells me they didn't pre-prep correctly.
 
I seem to notice that people are saying the owner is at fault, and the bike was built fine. If that was the case all the car hoods here in florida would be covered in rust after the first year. The truth is 10 years, and they look new.
Its not something I did or did not do, its bad engineering. 2 part epoxy paint would add about $40 to the cost of a new bike. I think this goes beyond that thou. I think it is a surface prep issue. As the welds are ALL rusting. If the welds are rusting, that tells me they didn't pre-prep correctly.

I know its a nuisance but could you try and take a picture of the inner frame, from the front, deep in-between the radiators. Where the front suspension wishbone linkages attach.

Theres a fair bit of framework inside there and its unlikely to have been jetwashed or cleaned as its deep inside.

Whats going on with that metalwork?

If the inner frame is really dirty, give it a wipe over with a cloth please so we can see (its hard but careful access can get you there, just be careful of any sharp bits). I'd be very interested to see whats happened to the joints and paint inside there.
 
I seem to notice that people are saying the owner is at fault, and the bike was built fine. If that was the case all the car hoods here in florida would be covered in rust after the first year. The truth is 10 years, and they look new.
Its not something I did or did not do, its bad engineering. 2 part epoxy paint would add about $40 to the cost of a new bike. I think this goes beyond that thou. I think it is a surface prep issue. As the welds are ALL rusting. If the welds are rusting, that tells me they didn't pre-prep correctly.

As this is the worst corrosion case to date, and you've admitted you regularly let the hand car wash operators clean your bike, do you not see a coincidence?
 


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