Fuel tank internal

Noddy

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paint flaking into small pieces that have blocked the taps and completely stopped the reserve positions from working.

1984 R100 with standard tank.

Apart from a new tank any cheaper suggestions for a repair/recoat that works please ?

Photo shows smaller pieces, some others are the size of small leaves :(
 

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Thats the result of the ethanol in petrol.

Coat the inside of the tanks with something like:

http://www.frost.co.uk/por15-car-bike-motorcyle-fuel-tank-repair-sealer.html

There is a company that will do this but I can find them right now.

If you do it yourself, follow the preparation instructions very carefully, in order to ensure that the coating remains adhered to the inside of the tank and does not 'delaminate' over time. Also, mask/cover all of the paintwork during the process!
 
Thanks your noshiness :bow That looks like it might just do the job.

Have you used this yourself ?
 
Did my BSA tank with POR 15 two years ago , bought from Frosts.
As stated above you MUST follow the instructions exactly. Por 15 uses three products:
1) cleaner high detergent /some other chemicals

2 ) Metal ready , like an etch primer very corrosive

3 ) the paint which is poly urethane / epoxy.

Pu / epixies use water to cure, so if there is any moisture eg less than 1% or grams it will kick off the epoxy. As a result the liner / paint will fall off a couple of months in.

So hair dryers/ heat guns are your friend.

Dont rush, allow probably a week to do the job properly.

Also before you start you need to remove all lose rust using some white spirit and about 15 small self tapper screws, shaken up in the tank.

Also may I suggest you ask Chris Tunner (Tunneruk) what he recommends, as there are about 3 or 4 fuel tank sealers
 
I havn't used this particular brand, although por products are well thought of.

I used something very similar a few years ago in my Ariel Red Hunter tank.
 
Bit of an update on this. Thanks Steve and Noshi.

I tried the White spirit and self tapping screw idea but it was not very successful as the tank is to large for me to shake it about for long and it didn't really make much difference from what I could see inside.

I bought the POR15 three stage kit from Frosts, read the instructions and then gave up. They recommend protective clothing, respirators, eye protection etc and the health dangers of the chemicals was way to much for me.

Got the kit here if anybody can use it.

Did an inter web search and found a nice friendly company who deal with this sort of old bike problem and they are sorting it out for me.

Their details are MTS Classics, motorcycle restorations. They are in Hanslope, Milton Keynes. Contact Barry.

www.mts-motorcycles.co.uk

Hope this helps somebody else.
 
David Nimrod filled his with white vinegar and a few lengths of chain giving it a shack a couple of times a day. It stripped the red coat out a treat.
 
As usual Snowbum has a bit to say on the subject.
One of his recommendations is to pickle the tank, but he suggests something stronger than vinegar - phosphoric acid based rust converter is his tip, made into a weakish solution and left a day or so.
 
Half fill with Coca Cola, shake with a couple of meters of jax chain inside...
Shud be rid of
 
Key thing with tanks is following a derusting you need to get the remaining water out ( from the rinse) within minutes. Otherwise as it drys you get flash rusting. You can see flash rust on BBQ tools or any metal that has had its oxides removed. It can happen in under an hour

So following the water rinse get some industrial methalated spirits , sold in hardware stores or chemists. This is water loving and will mop up the water trapped in the welded seams. Add some flush about and roll the tank, dump, another flush with fresh IMS , dump. Then leave in the sun or warm place to dry.

Dont use a heat gun straight away otherwise you will soon see what the inside of the tank looks like!!!

Steve
 


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